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[Peterskinn]

Hi

I thought I would start a new topic under this title.

I've been chasing through the faults on my car since May and have received some great help from the OOF - thanks to all.

I concluded the last topic by reporting that I've now done 2000 miles since a new head gasket and all seems well (whisper it!!)

I also mentioned that the heater seems to under-perform - to quote:-

Heater is very poor - have flushed the system with a hose - which helped a little. I'm steeling myself for a poke and prod behind the facia - as seen elsewhere on OOF.

In the great scheme of things - I might leave well alone and wear a coat when driving!

I got a helpful from "Flyer 0712" as follows:-

2.2 heaters take a long time to get really hot...around 5/7.miles of running in cold weather...i was a bit peed off with mine as i could not understand why it would not get hot,,,,,,asked the question on here about it and Tunnie said to bleed the system properly again from scratch which i did and although it still takes a long time to get hot..it is a lot better and does heat up hotter now..Tunnie has a 2.2 and he and others on here say the same thing..2.2 do appear to take a while to get hot 

+++++++++

I don't think that's really the problem because I've done several long journeys and the heater just erratic. Sometimes it's warm (I can't say hot) at least warm enough to warrant removing my coat! Other times it blows cold and the fans start blowing fast - like they're trying to cool the car down.

I get best results if I use the "ECO" button - if not i just get colder.

I've flushed the engine water system and that seemed to improve matters. I'm pretty sure the various air control flaps work because i can operate the various zone buttons and get a reasonable airflow through all three. Again I wouldn't describe it as "high" Airflow?

I have a couple of theories.......

One the engine itself doesn't seem to get very hot at all and the water system doesn't seem to pressurize as i would expect.

Two - The heater bypass valve - which I've read about - is shot. Although I haven't yet managed to locate it I'm sure it's there! If I remove/clean it is there any way of testing it's operation??   

Also how do I bleed the system??

I'm asking now because it'll make the car unusable if the weather gets really cold. Even with the mild temperatures we've been having lately - it's not a great experience!

[05omegav6]

Expansion tank cap and new thermostat and report back

[Peterskinn]

Thanks for that..............

I just had an interesting fiddle/looksee on a warm autumn afternoon and can bring some more info to the case........

To start with,  I removed the spring release valve from the Expansion tank cap and replaced the cap with just the rubber seal fitted - tightened down tight - my thinking being that if sealed the tank completely - and the system pressurized -  it would pinpoint the cap.

Did a quick 5 mile run in the car and left it to tick over while I investigated. Results:-

1. Still no pressure in the system. Is it possible that the header tank is holed/split (I can't see anything obvious)

2. Coolant warms as you would expect and the thermostat seemed to be operating fine.

3. Upper pipe to the heat exchanger buried in the centre console is (very) hot - the lower one less so - but I conclude from that that there is a flow in and out of it.

4. Located the HBV and the pipes to it were suitably hot. The vacuum pipe is properly connected

5. Checked operation of the heater footwell vents and yes there is a good airflow - but it's still cool.

I'm leaning towards the root cause being a cooling system with zero pressure.

Anybody have experience of that???

Re the thermostat etc - it's quite likely to have been "cooked" when the car overheated due to the CH Gasket.

There is also a weep of coolant from the EGR valve - or more accurately the joint between the bit at the back of the CH on which the EGR valve sits.

Anybody know any source for the gasket(s) and/or a part number??

I'm still keen to know if the HBV can be tested??

[05omegav6]

If the temp gauge is showing much below 90 once warmed through, then the stat is getting lazy

[Kevin Wood]

Couple of things to check:

Does the outside temperature read correctly on the MID?
If you set the temperature on both sides to "hi" does it blow hot on both sides of the car?
Is the coolant temperature sitting at 85-90 degrees once warmed up properly?

[Peterskinn]

NO to most of those questions.

Temp Gauge is very low and usually hardly registering....

Air comes out both sides - but it's cold.

I guess I'm going to have to grit my teeth and change the stat?  If I'm doing that I may as well do the HBV - then I can fix the leak at the EGR valve too?

Oh Joy!

Still I keep telling myself - it's more interesting than owning a modern car! I'm developing a new admiration for the simplicity of a VW air-cooled engine!!

[Kevin Wood]

Temp Gauge is very low and usually hardly registering....

There's your problem, then.

I guess I'm going to have to grit my teeth and change the stat?  If I'm doing that I may as well do the HBV - then I can fix the leak at the EGR valve too?

On the bright side, it's much easier than changing the heater matrix, or trying to reconnect the blending flaps to their motors, which are the other main culprits.

If your outside temperature display is playing up, though, the climate panel will get confused, so worth fixing that (usually the little sensor behind the front bumper).

[Peterskinn]

Thanks

I'm ordering the bits now..........

Does anybody know the pt No or id for the gasket between the head and the EGR valve body (not the metal one - assume it would be similar to thermostat housing gasket??

[Peterskinn]

Sorry - I meant to add that the MID display for temp seems OK..........

[Mr Gav]

Sorry - I meant to add that the MID display for temp seems OK..........

No need to worry about that then 

[78bex]

I swopped out my old thermostat when my coolant system was drained for the waterpump cambelt change.
The thermostat & housing are a complete unit. Point to note on mine was the top of the old ally housing (were the top hose pushes on ) had swelled with oxidised material.
This in turn had swelled the top hose, which meant the old hose was a sloppy fit onto the new unit so a new top hose was needed.
I could only reach the thermostat housing bottom bolts with a 1/4 drive socket. I`d take it easy re-locating these bolts back into place, they`re just waiting to cross-thread on you.

[T.m.f]

There are 3 different types of gasket for the egr,best order direct from vauxhall

[Peterskinn]

I hesitate to speak too soon but.........

I have this afternoon changed the t'stat and HBV and put a new Cap on the header tank.

In the process I set to and removed the casting where the EGR valve sits. I did this because there was a small leak of coolant from this area and I guessed the gasket might be weeping?

On removal I found that some dork had actually fitted entirely the wrong gasket - hence there was a leak from the exhaust gas chamber as well as the water leak. I made a new gasket and liberally applied hylomar.

Re-assembly was the reverse etc etc - on the way I flushed the heater matrix by application of a hosepipe.

Result - not only does the heater work but also the lumpy tick-over which has been with me since I've had the car has gone!! It might be my imagination ( I drove for about 5 miles) but it seemed to pull much better too!

To say I'm pleased would be an understatement - I shall now see how long my home-made gasket lasts! 

I guess the other conundrum is that I don't know which of the various components was actually the cause of the problem. However a good afternoons work and only £20 for the parts!!

[Kevin Wood]

Glad it's sorted.

[terry paget]

Congratulations on changing the EGR manifold gasket without removing the head; access must have been tricky. I changed my 2.2 head gasket in July. In the HG gasket kit came 3 EGR manifold gaskets, all wrong. I bought the correct part from Vauxhall. invoice is at work, I will give the part no. tomorrow in case your fabricated part fails. Glad all is now well, I have suffered low heat on a 2.2 following changing an HBV valve and kinking the pipes.