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[terry paget]

I had the same problem with a 2000 Omega 2.5 I bought in July. I used Evostik Gripfill, a building trade adhesive I believe, which has proved entirely effective.

[johnnydog]

Using Evostik Gripfill will surely result in problems if you have remove the rubber at some later point as it dries like rock?
I have previously used a permanently flexible windscreen sealant; the grey coloured type that was regularly used on old type windscreens where the glass sat in a lip in the seal before the modern type bonded screens. It skins over, but remains flexible underneath. It's easier to remove if necessary and doesn't look out of place if a bit shows on the glass/rubber.

[polilara]

Thanks for comments. The seal is now in my bathroom. I washed it properly and found that it consists of two pieces. A soft rubber part and in a middle a hard plastic part. The bottom side of the plastic part have a groove where the scuttle edge will be put. Perhaps here no glue is needed here?

The upper part of the plastic is convex and must probably sit tightly against to the wind screen bottom side groove, so I put glue there.

Then the whole seal perhaps must be glued to the steel part having those fixing holes for the scuttle. This might be the most important joint as if that is leaking the water goes directly to wrong place. Did I understand this correctly. I wonder a bit this as there are no marks from original glue (from 2001).

Any tips to make this task properly are welcome.

[TheBoy]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

[Andy H]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

It doesn't really do very much then I assume

The screen is bonded in place so water running down the screen falls into the scuttle regardless of whether the trim is attached.

[TheBoy]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

It doesn't really do very much then I assume

The screen is bonded in place so water running down the screen falls into the scuttle regardless of whether the trim is attached.

If it becomes unclipped, as is reasonably common, water runs under the scuttle, rather than over it, and fills the foam with soggy water.

[Andy H]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

It doesn't really do very much then I assume

The screen is bonded in place so water running down the screen falls into the scuttle regardless of whether the trim is attached.

If it becomes unclipped, as is reasonably common, water runs under the scuttle, rather than over it, and fills the foam with soggy water.

Ahh - I think that is the missing link in my understanding of what must be watertight to keep the foam dry.

It never did make much sense to me to stick the centre plastic section to the metal section where the pollen filter lives if it didn't leave the factory that way.

[05omegav6]

Neither part of that lower window trim is any longer available. Gluing it to the screen should therefore be avoided if you are likely to ever need a new screen.

[polilara]

Is this the seal that clips into the lower edge of the screen? No sealant reqd.

Yes it is that seal but sorry for wrong information. The seal was upside down in my hand. So the upper side of the plastic part has a groove where the lower edge of the wind screen should go. Now I understand better how this seal should work. If the joint of lower edge of screen is watertight to the groove there is no need to glue the plastic to the metal section. But to make this joint good I guess only choice is to use glue. Hope I do not ever need a new screen like Harris K Telemacher mentioned.

[tidla]

My personal view is to bin the foam underneath the skuttle which holds the water and transports it to the coil pack.

[Nick W]

My personal view is to bin the foam underneath the scuttle which holds the water and transports it to the coil pack.

That gets my vote. My scuttle is badly split in the driver's side corner, and it is simply slid under the windscreen trim because all of the windscreen clips are broken. It was like that when I bought the car. After removing the foam, I no longer have any problems of finding rainwater where it shouldn't be.


I do ensure that the join of both parts is aligned, and have no intention of sticking any of it down because I hate fumbling about at the back of the engine unnecessarily.

[05omegav6]

My personal view is to bin the foam underneath the scuttle which holds the water and transports it to the coil pack.

That gets my vote. My scuttle is badly split in the driver's side corner, and it is simply slid under the windscreen trim because all of the windscreen clips are broken. It was like that when I bought the car. After removing the foam, I no longer have any problems of finding rainwater where it shouldn't be.


I do ensure that the join of both parts is aligned, and have no intention of sticking any of it down because I hate fumbling about at the back of the engine unnecessarily.

Seconded

[johnnydog]

Even if the hard plastic trim and lower windscreen seal are in good order and positioned correctly, a small amount of the permanently flexible old style windscreen sealer applied between the glass and the inner lip of the lower rubber seal won't go amiss and prevents any water running off the bottom of the screen going between the seal and under the scuttle trim into the foam. It can be easily cleaned up, isn't visible and still allows the rubber seal being removed in the future, but in my view is a 'belt and braces' practice to prevent any water from getting into the engine bay via the foam.
I had the damp foam problem and having checked the windscreen trims / seals were in order, applied this sealant and it worked for me.

[05omegav6]

Even if the hard plastic trim and lower windscreen seal are in good order and positioned correctly, a small amount of the permanently flexible old style windscreen sealer applied between the glass and the inner lip of the lower rubber seal won't go amiss and prevents any water running off the bottom of the screen going between the seal and under the scuttle trim into the foam. It can be easily cleaned up, isn't visible and still allows the rubber seal being removed in the future, but in my view is a 'belt and braces' practice to prevent any water from getting into the engine bay via the foam.
I had the damp foam problem and having checked the windscreen trims / seals were in order, applied this sealant and it worked for me.

See my post above

Both the rubber and the frame need to be transfered to any new windscreen being fitted.

[polilara]

Even if the hard plastic trim and lower windscreen seal are in good order and positioned correctly, a small amount of the permanently flexible old style windscreen sealer applied between the glass and the inner lip of the lower rubber seal won't go amiss and prevents any water running off the bottom of the screen going between the seal and under the scuttle trim into the foam. It can be easily cleaned up, isn't visible and still allows the rubber seal being removed in the future, but in my view is a 'belt and braces' practice to prevent any water from getting into the engine bay via the foam.
I had the damp foam problem and having checked the windscreen trims / seals were in order, applied this sealant and it worked for me.

This is what I think, too. I believe that when this car left factory the joint between this seal construction and screen must have been water proof. To maintain that situation with old parts perhaps some chemicals are needed. I would put sealant where johnnydog proposed but also to the plastic trim/groove. To do that properly the sealant must be removed and the groove cleaned. Mine was full of sand, dust and other residuals.