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Multiram valve number 2...(behind the coilpack)

Started by calibrated, 13 January 2016, 21:21:12

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Webby the Bear

Will do mate :)

I'll be honest it's going to beat least a week. snowed under at the garage and going for weekend away this weekend :) but will keep y'aaall posted :) :y :y :y
RIP Paul Lovejoy

DrAndyB

 :y Cheers  :y

I was going to give pipes and connectors a check on mine, and I thought the ram sat in different place when engine turned off to when engine on idle ?

Hopefully we can both get sorted.

Fingers crossed its something simple  ;)


steve6367

Not sure if either of you got this sorted but I have the same problem on one of my 2.5's.

Both move when tested with diagnostics connected, front moves when throttle blipped.

Rear never moves - not when changing form idle to higher revs or with high RPM.
2.2 CDX Estate (broken), 2.5 CD Salon, 2.5 CD Estate LPG

Diamond Black Geezer

Ex-Dealer Kent-Moore Rear Wheel Bearing Tool available for hire, PM for details.

"There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes." 4th Doctor

Webby the Bear

Hi guys. Nope, didn't sort it. Even with spare ram valve. As there's no eml on I assume it's a new valve needed.
RIP Paul Lovejoy

TheBoy

Suspect you're all being too soft with it.

If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)
Grumpy old man

TheBoy

Quote from: TheBoy on 16 May 2016, 17:40:15
Suspect you're all being too soft with it.

If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)
And that's 'dangle berries', as if a non-Omega ECU, diag tool won't move it ;D. What a pleb that TheBoy is.
Grumpy old man

sjc

To test the rear one you need to blip the throttle hard - whack it all the way open quickly.
If you Elite an MV6, does that make it an MVee-leet?

DrAndyB

Quote from: sjc on 16 May 2016, 17:51:21
To test the rear one you need to blip the throttle hard - whack it all the way open quickly.

Same here, rear one seems not to move, even when blipped hard with the front ones coming on !!!

New rear solenoid ?  Plug is in it  :(

Webby the Bear

I assure you I've given it 'death' and still no movement.
RIP Paul Lovejoy

Diamond Black Geezer

Checking out Mark's tech manual he posted, the rear should move over 4100rpm... as, I'm sure, with Mr The Bear's I ran mine all the way up to the red line, and still nothing.

What I have observed, is that the servo/solenoid thingygummy appears to be identical for the front and rear. Bit of a faff, but surely swapping the front and rear ones round will confirm whether both are working, or that the issue lies somewhere else?
Ex-Dealer Kent-Moore Rear Wheel Bearing Tool available for hire, PM for details.

"There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes." 4th Doctor

frostbite

The rear valve will also  move when the engine starts. I watched them after I replaced the vac tanks,  PO broke the nipples and tried to glue them back on  so non of it was working
e46 325i se - 1.8vvti avensis liftback

steve6367

Quote from: TheBoy on 16 May 2016, 17:40:15
Suspect you're all being too soft with it.

If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)

I have taken it to the red line, or is it also to do with the speed to wide open?

On my 2.5 (non-dbw) my understanding is that it should move between idle and any revs at all also?
2.2 CDX Estate (broken), 2.5 CD Salon, 2.5 CD Estate LPG

TheBoy

I needs to be idle to redline as fast as possible, due to the no-load status of the engine when testing. Its a knack
Grumpy old man

Diamond Black Geezer

Currently parked up in the Sikh Temple's car park...might save redlining her until I'm home in the interests of inter-community relations  :D
Ex-Dealer Kent-Moore Rear Wheel Bearing Tool available for hire, PM for details.

"There's no point in being grown up if you can't be childish sometimes." 4th Doctor