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Author Topic: Corrosion where the rear of the subframe joins the body of the car  (Read 4707 times)

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berserkerboy

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 :-[ I have a serious corrosion issue where the the rear of the subframe joins the body of the car. The corrosion is on the exhaust side where the 2 bolts go into a kind of box section. This box section is torn and falling to pieces. I cannot see how it will be easy to weld. Anyone else had this issue and how is it best solved? Wondering if this is terminal. :'(
« Last Edit: 11 March 2016, 21:24:17 by berserkerboy »
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Nick W

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If you weld it yourself it's cheap, and the area I think you mean I would repair with the mount cutout of another car and plug welded to a repaired part of the boot floor.




If you are going to pay someone to do it, then it probably isn't an economic repair.
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berserkerboy

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Here is a picture of the problem. Not much decent metal left to weld.

« Last Edit: 11 March 2016, 21:45:25 by berserkerboy »
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05omegav6

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Ideally, repairing that is going to require dropping the exhaust, subframe and fuel tank... all perfectly feasible, but easier on a ramp...

Might be cheaper to replace the car with another Omega, but no reason why I can't be repaired :y
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Nick W

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Thank you


that rusty mount is spotwelded to the panel above it.  Although reverse-engineering the mount out of sheetsteel isn't hard, hacking the whole area out of a scrapcar is much easier and quicker. You then cut the rusty mount off, and clean where it fits with an anglegrinder. Plate if necessary, and bolt  your tidied up mount to the subframe, then weld the top in place.


BUT, before you do any of that, have a good poke around the rear wheelarches, sills and front chassis rails above the wishbones to see if it is worth doing.
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05omegav6

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Thank you


that rusty mount is spotwelded to the panel above it.  Although reverse-engineering the mount out of sheetsteel isn't hard, hacking the whole area out of a scrapcar is much easier and quicker. You then cut the rusty mount off, and clean where it fits with an anglegrinder. Plate if necessary, and bolt  your tidied up mount to the subframe, then weld the top in place.


BUT, before you do any of that, have a good poke around the rear wheelarches, sills and front chassis rails above the wishbones to see if it is worth doing.
Have used this reverse salvage approch to good effect with the rear exhaust hanger... area in question will differ saloon to estate, so will need sourcing from a suitably shaped car... pre or post facelift doesn't matter as the shells are identical :y
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berserkerboy

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I discovered this when I was starting the procedure for replacing a rear wheel bearing. List of jobs before next MOT that I am aware of:

Repair the corrosion problem above.
Rear wheel bearing
Brake pipe replacement in one area due to corrosion.
Rear seat middle seatbelt not coming out of reel.

Living in rural Wales I don't have access to a local scrap yard for getting the replacement mount. So I think reverse engineering is my only option. I have a MIG welder but not much experience on using it.
It's a shame because I've replaced the timing belt in the last couple of months and did the wishbones 9 months ago.
It's a nice comfortable car to drive and I love the 3.2 engine with the LPG conversion (not something I added). I'd like to keep the car but really think now that I could be throwing good money and time after bad.
I was thinking that I might look at something like an 08 Zafira. However, the owners forum doesn't appear to be nearly as good as this one.  :-\
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Lazydocker

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Cost wise, the bulk of those repairs are pretty cheap if you can do them yourself and don't "charge" for your time in the calculations. But there's a lot of work there, time wise.

Only you can decide if it is worth your time.

As for Zafira owners forum...... Just stay here  ;)
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Whatever it is... I didn't do it

05omegav6

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When does the MoT run out?
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Nick W

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I discovered this when I was starting the procedure for replacing a rear wheel bearing. List of jobs before next MOT that I am aware of:

Repair the corrosion problem above.
Rear wheel bearing
Brake pipe replacement in one area due to corrosion.
Rear seat middle seatbelt not coming out of reel.

Living in rural Wales I don't have access to a local scrap yard for getting the replacement mount. So I think reverse engineering is my only option. I have a MIG welder but not much experience on using it.
It's a shame because I've replaced the timing belt in the last couple of months and did the wishbones 9 months ago.
It's a nice comfortable car to drive and I love the 3.2 engine with the LPG conversion (not something I added). I'd like to keep the car but really think now that I could be throwing good money and time after bad.
I was thinking that I might look at something like an 08 Zafira. However, the owners forum doesn't appear to be nearly as good as this one.  :-\


Those are all cheap DIY jobs, if you have the tools (especially for the wheel bearing). Undercar stuff is ideal for inexperienced welders; as long as the job is strong, the appearance is easily masked with a thick coat of underseal.


I would be happy to help, but you're a bit far away.
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berserkerboy

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MOT due 1st May.

Thanks Nick W for all your advice. Yeah, I think you'd need to come stay for a weeks holiday to make the distance worthwhile  8)

My plan is to buy another car. Then I can repair this one at leisure. The wife wants me to get a Zafira as she doesn't like the low seats in the Omega. Also with 03 being the last year there are bound to be similar issues with another one.
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berserkerboy

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Have had a good look under the car. This box section is the only really bad rust spot. The driver side could possibly do with a bit of strengthening.
So, I've about a quarter of a tank of fuel. The tank will need to be removed to allow the welding to be done. Can anyone advise the best way to remove the fuel and the procedure for removing the tank?

Thanks
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05omegav6

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Remove the plate in the boot
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Tick Tock

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Have had a good look under the car. This box section is the only really bad rust spot. The driver side could possibly do with a bit of strengthening.
So, I've about a quarter of a tank of fuel. The tank will need to be removed to allow the welding to be done. Can anyone advise the best way to remove the fuel and the procedure for removing the tank?

Thanks

Keep the engine running..... It'll empty out eventually  :(  Syphon perhaps?
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Omega 2.5 V6 Facelift Estate.

Kevin Wood

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Remove the plate in the boot

Indeed, attach a hose to the pump feed pipe, other end in a jerry can. Bridge the contacts on the fuel pump relay and wait for it to pump the tank dry.
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