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[mandula]

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

Is that so? If Z22XE uses Titania-type lambda then there is my problem, because now I have Zirconia-type..

[demolite]

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

[mandula]

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

Thanks for this. Will report back if I found anything wrong.

[mandula]

I made some basic measurements, dont have much time to go through ECU to lambda wirings.

Power off there was no resistant or voltage loss when compared between battery terminals and ECU casing.

But when idling the engine, there was resistant of 40 ohms between battery ground terminal and ECU casing and 0.06 V loss between battery plus and ECU chasing.

Also there was resistant of 100 ohms between engine block and battery ground terminal and same with ECU casing and engine block while idling. Powers off resistant was about 30 ohms.

So it seems that at least I need to clean all grounding points. I can see where ECU and some others ground below fuse box, but battery grounding to engine is not so clear to see. It dives somewhere under AC compressor,,can I reach it from below?

[Andy H]

I made some basic measurements, dont have much time to go through ECU to lambda wirings.

Power off there was no resistant or voltage loss when compared between battery terminals and ECU casing.

But when idling the engine, there was resistant of 40 ohms between battery ground terminal and ECU casing and 0.06 V loss between battery plus and ECU chasing.

Also there was resistant of 100 ohms between engine block and battery ground terminal and same with ECU casing and engine block while idling. Powers off resistant was about 30 ohms.

So it seems that at least I need to clean all grounding points. I can see where ECU and some others ground below fuse box, but battery grounding to engine is not so clear to see. It dives somewhere under AC compressor,,can I reach it from below?

Your multi-meter will contain a small battery (probably 9 Volts). During resistance measurement your meter will pass a small current through the component being measured and measure a very small voltage drop to calculate resistance. If any additional current passes through the component on test then the reading will be meaningless.

When the engine is running the alternator will be charging the battery. The maximum output of the alternator is 140 Amps - your meter probably uses a current of between 0.01 and 0.1 Amps for resistance measurement so you risk frying your multimeter if you try to measure the resistance of the earth strap when the engine is running.

What would be more useful would be to measure the voltage difference between the block and the battery terminal with the engine running.

[demolite]

I made some basic measurements, dont have much time to go through ECU to lambda wirings.

Power off there was no resistant or voltage loss when compared between battery terminals and ECU casing.

But when idling the engine, there was resistant of 40 ohms between battery ground terminal and ECU casing and 0.06 V loss between battery plus and ECU chasing.

Also there was resistant of 100 ohms between engine block and battery ground terminal and same with ECU casing and engine block while idling. Powers off resistant was about 30 ohms.

So it seems that at least I need to clean all grounding points. I can see where ECU and some others ground below fuse box, but battery grounding to engine is not so clear to see. It dives somewhere under AC compressor,,can I reach it from below?

Your multi-meter will contain a small battery (probably 9 Volts). During resistance measurement your meter will pass a small current through the component being measured and measure a very small voltage drop to calculate resistance. If any additional current passes through the component on test then the reading will be meaningless.

When the engine is running the alternator will be charging the battery. The maximum output of the alternator is 140 Amps - your meter probably uses a current of between 0.01 and 0.1 Amps for resistance measurement so you risk frying your multimeter if you try to measure the resistance of the earth strap when the engine is running.

What would be more useful would be to measure the voltage difference between the block and the battery terminal with the engine running.

This. Voltage measurements between all major grounds with the engine running. You would need to disconnect the battery and use a milliohm-meter to measure it accurately otherwise.

[Andy H]

Something I don't think I have seen mentioned in this thread is the importance of keeping some earth paths separated.

Some devices just need a big stupid earth wire because they draw a lot of current but they don't really care if there is a largish volt drop (think starter motor cranking a cold engine). Others don't pass much (or any) current but the earth wire is required for a zero voltage reference.

The lambda sensor is two devices in one case. There is a big stupid heater element which needs a big stupid earth wire. It doesn't matter whether this wire goes back to the block, or the bolt under the battery or to the battery terminal - these points are all at slightly differing voltages when the engine is running but not by enough to bother the heater. Then there is the lambda sensor itself which generates a tiny voltage and needs an earth wire which goes back to a zero voltage reference point in the ECU. If the heater earth wire and the lambda earth wire get swapped then the large current from the heater will pass through the circuit board inside the ECU and the sensitive circuitry which drives the lambda sensor will be using a different zero voltage reference to the lambda sensor.

[mandula]

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

Okay, measured these.

No resistant between ECU connector and lambda connector corresponding wires, and no cuts when I shaked wirings during measurements. Also soldered the wirings together where old lamdbas connector and new lambda wirings are  attached.

Lambdas heater element resistant 4 ohms.

Signal ground no resistant to battery ground or ECU casing.

I think I try again with new genuine lambda tomorrow if that changes anything..

[mandula]

Ok, now I measured lambda voltage, does not rise above 500 mV even when throttling quickly. When keeping revs up voltage even drops near zero.

So could I say it is prety clear that new lambda would help on this matter..

[mandula]

Ok, now I measured lambda voltage, does not rise above 500 mV even when throttling quickly. When keeping revs up voltage even drops near zero.

So could I say it is prety clear that new lambda would help on this matter..

I now have replaced lambda with new same type and it kind of solved the problems.

No fault codes after replacement and driving 20 minutes on highway and in town.

It is just that voltage wont rise above 750 mV still (better than before 650 mV).

On highway voltage oscillated from 600-700 to 200-0 mV. In town it get as hogh as 750 mV when accelerating.

I think the main problem is that when I took closer look on package, it said that new lambda is universal type. What I'm read from Google is that universals dont necessary have the right voltage range as needed. And it mow seems that they can get broken also very fast 

I will buy genuine one, nevertheless no fault codes yet shown up. I will report back if this case is closed with genuine lambda.

Anyway, thanks for help guys/girls! This has teached me alot with this type troubleshooting and also some theory in this matter 

[demolite]

I wouldn't bother with an original part if the one you're now using works ok. Your lambda voltage goes high enough and isn't causing a fault. Try it for a few weeks.

The main problem with your old lambda was the abnormal activity of staying low (and going "disconnected") thus causing a fault code.

Universal sensors can work fine, and if you dont get the fault anymore, why spend more money?

[mandula]

I wouldn't bother with an original part if the one you're now using works ok. Your lambda voltage goes high enough and isn't causing a fault. Try it for a few weeks.

The main problem with your old lambda was the abnormal activity of staying low (and going "disconnected") thus causing a fault code.

Universal sensors can work fine, and if you dont get the fault anymore, why spend more money?

Just to be sure I don't need to do this same procedure again anymore

[mandula]

Well, familiar fault code P0130 showed up again this morning, even lit the yellow engine fault light on dash. Quicky looked at live data and there was almost no voltage change on 1st lambda.

Replaced lambda with Bosch-style oem lambda and now I can see 1st lambda to oscillate nicely at idle from 0.1 to 0.8 V and on revs in faster cycles from 0 to almost 1.0 V.

Long term fuel trim was almost 10 %, do I need to reset that (I assume that is only doable with Tech2?), or do I just ignore it and let ot settle down by itself? Short term fuel trim showed on quick test 0 to -3 %.

[Kevin Wood]

My recollection is that the 4 pot Omegas use Titania Lambda sensors not the more common Zirconia devices as used on the V6s. This means they have different characteristics so you can't directly compare the output voltages. If it 'ain't broke...

I don't believe that is true for 2.2 liter engines. Based on the graph the ecu clearly biases the circuit at 450 mV, typical for zirconia (vs. ~2v vor titania). Also sensor B1S2 is your typical zirconia too.Some of the 2.0 liter engines do have titania.


For Z22XE/Y22XE engine model:

ECU CONN. X83         WIRE COLOR          B1S1 CONN.
8                             gray                     4   (signal ground)
57                            black                    2  (signal)
19 & 35                     brown-white          1  (heater ground)               
23                 red-blue@ecu/white@O2     3  (heater power)

I can't tell which of the two ecu connectors is X83, try the one with more wires going to it...
Fault is intermittant so wiggle the wires as you test!

Edit: I corrected the signal ground and signal wire color & number.

You might be right, actually. It was the Simtec engine management on the X20XEV that used Titania.