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[Shackeng]

The problem now is, that as the fault is intermittent, and absent a positive result from testing wiring, connections and power supply, it becomes a case of empirical testing by changing the most likely (e.g. easiest  ) part in turn, and wait for the fault to recur.

[Andy B]

....
Which I certainly shall be, however, from similar experiences in the past, admittedly on much earlier cars, I think it suggests a sticky solenoid, rather than a poorly connected wire. However, many thanks for your helpful comment.

But as Nick says, your existing solenoid worked when you bypassed the wiring loom. Your solenoid is OK, you've an iffy connection or wiring some where up to the solenoid.

Senators were the same, by the time the wiring had aged, plus the increased resistance of alarm relays etc made them such that they were reluctant to start off the key, but always spun over immediately if you powered the solenoid directly ..... ensuring of course they were in neutral/park when you did so! 

[robson]

 To get it started did you bypass the solenoid ie feed straight to the starter or jump across the solenoid contacts. If the latter then surely the ignition switch is ok

[Shackeng]

Good question, I couldn't see what he was doing, but he said he put a live supply to the 'trigger' connection, which I took to mean the supply to the solenoid. On the report he has written "...power up starter solenoid, engine starts, suspect solenoid." Although I would have thought that means that the solenoid is OK. However please correct me if I'm wrong, as I am not fully informed as to the wiring to these, fairly inaccessible and difficult to see as it is. Now I have it in the garage, I can do some trouble-shooting, if SWMBO lets me off writing Xmas cards!

[Shackeng]

....
Which I certainly shall be, however, from similar experiences in the past, admittedly on much earlier cars, I think it suggests a sticky solenoid, rather than a poorly connected wire. However, many thanks for your helpful comment.

But as Nick says, your existing solenoid worked when you bypassed the wiring loom. Your solenoid is OK, you've an iffy connection or wiring some where up to the solenoid.

Senators were the same, by the time the wiring had aged, plus the increased resistance of alarm relays etc made them such that they were reluctant to start off the key, but always spun over immediately if you powered the solenoid directly ..... ensuring of course they were in neutral/park when you did so! 

Interesting, and was there no dimming of lights when trying to start? and what was the fix?

[Shackeng]

Is this the switch that I need to replace if it is the guilty party as suggested by Nick and Omegod? At least it is a reasonably cheap fix if so.

[Andy B]

...
Interesting, and was there no dimming of lights when trying to start? and what was the fix?

It was a long time since I had my Senator, but remember that there were a few fixes on the ABS site. I just by-passed the start inhibit as a 'temporary' fix 

[Shackeng]

Is this the switch that I need to replace if it is the guilty party as suggested by Nick and Omegod? At least it is a reasonably cheap fix if so.

Can any electrickery experts confirm this please?

[Nick W]

Whoa there, I had exactly the same on a calibra and it was the ignition switch, all the dash lights then bugger all when giving the key the last turn, worth looking at for a £10 part. I went straight for wiring but missed the easiest bit   

Cheers OG, I'll also keep that in mind, as I had the switch out a couple of years ago to replace the tumblers.

You changed the tumblers in the lock barrel/cylinder. The switch is the round, black plastic bit that the lock turns. They're both common failures on Vauxhalls of this age, but the switch is at least easy to diagnose accurately and cheap to buy.

[Shackeng]

Whoa there, I had exactly the same on a calibra and it was the ignition switch, all the dash lights then bugger all when giving the key the last turn, worth looking at for a £10 part. I went straight for wiring but missed the easiest bit   

Cheers OG, I'll also keep that in mind, as I had the switch out a couple of years ago to replace the tumblers.

You changed the tumblers in the lock barrel/cylinder. The switch is the round, black plastic bit that the lock turns. They're both common failures on Vauxhalls of this age, but the switch is at least easy to diagnose accurately and cheap to buy.

Thanks Nick, is the switch accessible without removing the barrel? I assume this is the one I need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-TIGRA-VECTRA-IGNITION-BARREL-STARTER-SWITCH-PLUG-INPUT-NEW-/231551717977?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item35e98ed259:g:iKsAAOSwrklVRzhj#vi-ilComp

Amazingly, stealers have then in stock at £42 +Vat., but is it an item that should be GM???

[Nick W]

You changed the tumblers in the lock barrel/cylinder. The switch is the round, black plastic bit that the lock turns. They're both common failures on Vauxhalls of this age, but the switch is at least easy to diagnose accurately and cheap to buy.

Thanks Nick, is the switch accessible without removing the barrel? I assume this is the one I need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-TIGRA-VECTRA-IGNITION-BARREL-STARTER-SWITCH-PLUG-INPUT-NEW-/231551717977?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item35e98ed259:g:iKsAAOSwrklVRzhj#vi-ilComp

Yes, that looks like it. I fitted one on a Corsa years ago, but although it wasn't complicated I can't remember how I did it.


Seriously though, you need to start checking with a multi-meter before you buy anything.
 
Begin with the starter motor; use a power probe(or an improvised tool/wire) on the switching stud of the solenoid to eliminate that.


While you're there, check that the wire to the stud energises when the key is turned.


If it doesn't, check the switch is working.


If the switch IS working, you have a wiring fault.


Then you can fix the problem, rather than just guessing.

[Bigron]

Ask a woman to help - they are good at finding faults!   

Ron.

[Shackeng]

You changed the tumblers in the lock barrel/cylinder. The switch is the round, black plastic bit that the lock turns. They're both common failures on Vauxhalls of this age, but the switch is at least easy to diagnose accurately and cheap to buy.

Thanks Nick, is the switch accessible without removing the barrel? I assume this is the one I need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-TIGRA-VECTRA-IGNITION-BARREL-STARTER-SWITCH-PLUG-INPUT-NEW-/231551717977?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item35e98ed259:g:iKsAAOSwrklVRzhj#vi-ilComp

Yes, that looks like it. I fitted one on a Corsa years ago, but although it wasn't complicated I can't remember how I did it.


Seriously though, you need to start checking with a multi-meter before you buy anything.
 
Begin with the starter motor; use a power probe(or an improvised tool/wire) on the switching stud of the solenoid to eliminate that.


While you're there, check that the wire to the stud energises when the key is turned.


If it doesn't, check the switch is working.


If the switch IS working, you have a wiring fault.


Then you can fix the problem, rather than just guessing.

Thanks Nick, very concise. I will let you know how it goes. Unfortunately I was unable to escape Xmas card duties this afternoon, and its golf tomorrow, so hopefully I will get started at the weekend.

[Shackeng]

You changed the tumblers in the lock barrel/cylinder. The switch is the round, black plastic bit that the lock turns. They're both common failures on Vauxhalls of this age, but the switch is at least easy to diagnose accurately and cheap to buy.

Thanks Nick, is the switch accessible without removing the barrel? I assume this is the one I need: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-TIGRA-VECTRA-IGNITION-BARREL-STARTER-SWITCH-PLUG-INPUT-NEW-/231551717977?fits=Car+Make%3AVauxhall%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item35e98ed259:g:iKsAAOSwrklVRzhj#vi-ilComp

Yes, that looks like it. I fitted one on a Corsa years ago, but although it wasn't complicated I can't remember how I did it.


Seriously though, you need to start checking with a multi-meter before you buy anything.
 
Begin with the starter motor; use a power probe(or an improvised tool/wire) on the switching stud of the solenoid to eliminate that.
This works OK, as it started when power applied.
 
While you're there, check that the wire to the stud energises when the key is turned.


If it doesn't, check the switch is working.


If the switch IS working, you have a wiring fault.


Then you can fix the problem, rather than just guessing.

The problem now is that, as it starts OK, and is therefore an intermittent fault, I have to change things in turn to eliminate them, either that or wait until it fails completely, which I prefer not to do.

[Shackeng]

Ask a woman to help - they are good at finding faults!   

Ron.

Ain't that the truth.