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2.6 Broken Down Again

Started by star_whites, 07 December 2016, 19:31:52

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star_whites

Ok folks need a little help as I'm lost and losing the will to live with the old girl.

I posted the other week where I had a fault and the car wouldn't start, only for it to start after a few hours stood and a gallon of fuel (even though it wasn't empty).

Some suggested crank sensor and I tempted fate as she ran fine for a week then wouldn't start on leaving work last night. I bought a new sensor and have just fitted it however still nothing. She turns over but doesn't fire at all.  I've checked for codes and have the following:

1613 immobiliser
0150 02 sensor
0560 system voltage
0135 sensor heater circuit

Anyone help would be appreciated as can't live without a car and can't afford a garage

star_whites

Ok I've just removed the dust cap from the pressure release valve on injectors and this usually squirts you with fuel when it's pressed and there's nothing at all. Will any of the above restrict fuel flow and would your fuel pump bring up a fault code??

Nick W

Start with the immobiliser code, as that's what it is supposed to do!
Have you dropped or disassembled the key and lost the chip inside it? This is a very common problem. If you have another key that worked before this problem began, try it first.


If you have lost the chip, you'll need a replacement and have the car coded to it.

Entwood

Quote from: star_whites on 07 December 2016, 19:31:52
Ok folks need a little help as I'm lost and losing the will to live with the old girl.

I posted the other week where I had a fault and the car wouldn't start, only for it to start after a few hours stood and a gallon of fuel (even though it wasn't empty).

Some suggested crank sensor and I tempted fate as she ran fine for a week then wouldn't start on leaving work last night. I bought a new sensor and have just fitted it however still nothing. She turns over but doesn't fire at all.  I've checked for codes and have the following:

1613 immobiliser
0150 02 sensor
0560 system voltage
0135 sensor heater circuit

Anyone help would be appreciated as can't live without a car and can't afford a garage

Open up the key CAREFULLY and check the tiny little square transponder chip is securely fixed in its little housing bracket .. use a dab of superglue to fix it there.

On my old 2.5 I had major problems with random starting issues, eventually found this little chip was loose in the key and was sometimes moving too far away from the other part in the system, thus it would not start as it "thought" the key was illegal. Fixed the chip in the right place and the problem never re-occurred

It might be something else of course ..but that is a worth a check as it is a simple fix

Good luck  :)

star_whites

I've two keys with me and both havr their chip in them. Neither appear loose.

VXL V6

Occasionally one of mine flashes the immobiliser lamp and wont start, the cause seems to be the cable connection to the immobiliser module attached to the steering column, a quick wiggle of the connector and away it goes.

However, if the immobiliser lamp isn't flashing when you turn the key then doubtful this is the cause.

star_whites

Ok daft question but which is the immobiliser light?

powerslinky

#7
Quote from: star_whites on 07 December 2016, 20:53:52
Ok daft question but which is the immobiliser light?

Same one that flashes the codes for pedal trick.  bottom left corner of Rev counter

Immobilisor issue will cause that light to flash constantly.

This may be worth a try  . . . sit in drivers seat with doors closed . . .do a re set with key in ignition  . . switch to position II .  .  press lock on key fob .  .doors should lock & then unlock again. Then switch off . . .remove key & get out of car . Lock doors with fob from outside of car  . . .then open doors with fob again . get back in car & try to start engine as normal.    This has worked for a couple of oof members in this situation, myself included . . . .  ;)  the bad news is one of those cases  it was a faulty ECU  :'(

star_whites

Tried to do this but my key won't lock the car while the key is in the ignition. Looks like it's signal strength as when I remove the key and hold it up it will then lock it.

Also just to rule it out I've sent our driver for a gallon of fuel just to make sure the gauge hasn't  gone daft and I have run out of fuel. If I have then it's either leaking out or someone is stealing it !

powerslinky

#9
Quote from: star_whites on 08 December 2016, 11:30:42
Tried to do this but my key won't lock the car while the key is in the ignition. Looks like it's signal strength as when I remove the key and hold it up it will then lock it.

Also just to rule it out I've sent our driver for a gallon of fuel just to make sure the gauge hasn't  gone daft and I have run out of fuel. If I have then it's either leaking out or someone is stealing it !

Will car lock & unlock from outside using your fobs ?   If yes read on . .

Had a similar issue recently with my 2.6 estate . . . could not do a door lock reset  . .  found out it was something to do with the door pin switches for the puddle lights. One switch was not connecting(rear o/s door ) & puddle light was not switching on . Serviced switch with a bit of switch spray & then reset worked as did the second press for deadlocking which previosly was not working :y  It must be to do with the switch telling something that door is open or closed maybe  :-\ :-\  but sorted my issue.

Another point  . . & may be you already know this   . .but do you park on an incline , hill or slope , as estates apparently are prone to not starting if parked like this .   HTH  :y

powerslinky

See you have requested a fuel pump in"wanted"     to test yours I think it is just the case of removing the feed pipe  at side of the plenum & the getting some to turn engine over with key while you hold pipe into a small vessel or even a rag . Sure that pump only operates when engine is turned   :-\

Hopefully someone else will confirm this  . . .but sure it is linked to crank sensor :-\

star_whites

Well I've put the extra gallon of fuel in and the gauge went up even further but still not engine spark.

Immobiliser light is not flashing when cranking engine so think I can rule that out as well. Back to thinking the fuel pump is goosed. Lunch has finished now and school concert tonight so she's gonna have to sit there another night.

Oh and on another note the car was parked on a slope but we dragged her into the workshops which is completely flat so don't think this should matter.

Marks DTM Calib

If injectors are not firing and you have no spark then its crank sensor or immobiliser

star_whites

Hi Mark, there's no fuel coming out of the relief valve at the back of the injector manifold, that's why I'm thinking fuel pump

Kevin Wood

Beware that some Omega setups do not prime the fuel system until the crank sensor detects rotation, so it might not be as clear cut as that.

I would remove the fuel pump relay and connect a jumper between the contacts to verify that it can be heard running. Then check that it has left pressure behind the schraeder valve at the rear of the manifold.

If it doesn't fire and the immobiliser light isn't flashing, the most likely issue is the crank sensor, IMHO.
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