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[Doctor Gollum]

The seal is about £20, labour for dropping the box is circa £200.

From a preventative point of view, is there any mileage changing the oil pump when doing the front seal?

[Nick W]

The seal is about £20, labour for dropping the box is circa £200.

From a preventative point of view, is there any mileage changing the oil pump when doing the front seal?

Only if the engine has low oil pressure. And that's likely to have much worse causes than a poor pump.
I just changed the seal when I did mine: an easy job once you've undone the crank bolt. Which is very tight!

[Doctor Gollum]

Fair dos, wouldn't hurt to pull the pump and redo the block/pump seal whilst the pulley is off though

[Nick W]

Fair dos, wouldn't hurt to pull the pump and redo the block/pump seal whilst the pulley is off though

I prefer not to tinker with stuff that's working. I find that means they last longer

[Marks DTM Calib]

Fair dos, wouldn't hurt to pull the pump and redo the block/pump seal whilst the pulley is off though

Christ no, oil pump is a bitch of a job and involves removing aircon compressor ancillary brackets etc.

[Pmacca2000]

Sounds like the early stages of oil cooler failure to me.

[Doctor Gollum]

Sounds like the early stages of oil cooler failure to me.

Utter rubbish. Sorry.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Sounds like the early stages of oil cooler failure to me.

Ive told you before and will tell you again. There is only one sign of oil cooler failure. That is - oil in the coolant. 

[dbug]

Sounds like the early stages of oil cooler failure to me.

As others have said, complete and utter crap.  I do wish members with little or no mechanical knowledge wouldn't post totally incorrect information/solutions to issues that may involve other members in unwarrented work/extra costs.  When a V6 oil cooler fails, you will see your coolant turn a murky brown - thats the correct and only visual sign of oil cooler failure.  The oil cooler sits in the middle of the "V", immersed in coolant - the only place for a blown oil cooler to leak is into the coolant, no where else.

Think your garage took advantage of you and your limited knowledge re oil cooler failure on your car - certainly think they ripped you off financially   You will get better informed help/diagnostics on here, and certainly a more cost effective and correct diagnostics/repairs from some of the mobile mechs on here, or go to Serek's in Huntingdon for an honest, expert and cost effective repair service.

[Marks DTM Calib]

It had a new oil cooler not so long ago as the block to cover plate seal was leaking coolant.

[Jimbob]

looking in Tis, this is doable all from the back?  assumed the front needed locking the same as when doing the front seal?  guess that makes it easier to find someone competant to do it as no timing up needed afterwards.

[Doctor Gollum]

looking in Tis, this is doable all from the back?  assumed the front needed locking the same as when doing the front seal?  guess that makes it easier to find someone competant to do it as no timing up needed afterwards.

Eh

Front seal is behind the crank pulley... Rear seal is, not surprisingly, at the rear of the engine requiring box out... be like changing the front number plate from the boot

Leave the front one until the next belt change

[Jimbob]

yes....thought the crank needed locking at the front with the 'big tool' to do either.....

therefore undoable by anyone you couldnt trust to time it up

[Doctor Gollum]

yes....thought the crank needed locking at the front with the 'big tool' to do either.....

therefore undoable by anyone you couldnt trust to time it up

Crank doesn't need locking for the rear one

[Marks DTM Calib]

Its a flywheel or flex plate off job so 6 bolts (might be 8, cant recall) but no need to lock the crank like for the mega bolt on the NDE.

Still important not to rotate the crank the wrong way though.