Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Lizzie Zoom]

Yes the backing plate and crank and pulleys are all notched... Yes they can be made to line up without tools. Yes it might run well afterwards...

But, and it's a doozie , you forget one little, itsy witty detail which will cause an error in the setting...

Parallax.

Whilst they might look OK, without locking the crank and cams, they can move, and where they end up might look OK from a given perspective, you could end up with each cam progressively a tooth out... First time you start it you'll destroy the valves on the fourth cam closely followed by the rest.

Therefore the ONLY reasonable advice in a place like this, is to use the correct tools of proven quality. That way there is no risk and you can see EXACTLY where everything is without error

I have replaced cam belts in the past but never on a V6.  But everything ever said by those who do it all the time on ths Forum, and by specialist mechanics I have spoken to, all say you MUST you a cam locking kit.

As DG states just because you may be able to do something against all the advice there is does not mean it is right, and on this Forum there are "mechanics" at many levels; some are experts, others are near the novice standard. Thus, in general anyone who posts advice on this Forum must be aware of this and make sure they give the type of advice that an expert would give; i.e. you use a cam locking kit when you try and replace the cam belt.  Common sense that!

[Lincs Robert]

To build on Lizzie's comment, I have only ever done 2 cambelt changes in my life & they were both on V6 Omega's. I had a good quality locking kit, the DVD and an expert at the end of a phone when needed. To me they key thing was to take plenty of time, I was in no hurry at all.

I was interesting for me to see that the previous change done by a "proper garage  " had left off a bolt from the pulley block! Made me think what other shortcuts they had taken!

[cam.in.head]

I shall be doing my belt on my 2.6 next month and am using a Kent Moore locking kit which I found on eBay.i obviously havnt tried it on the bottom pulley yet but am intrigued to see how close tolerance it is or how much free movement can be obtained because this ultimately sets the starting point for the whole procedures accuracy.i wonder how the positioning varies with different makes of kit or even different engines ? .so it's a bit like the suspension alignment accuracy.everything depends on how those sensors / pick ups /gauges etc are fitted to the wheels in the first place that can then throw any readings and adjustments out. I remember years ago at many a tyre place they used to use the light bars and bounce back mirrors for front wheel toe setting. Maybe they still do .but they appear to clip onto the wheel rim by 3 sprung little wheels / rollers.the accuracy of such seems highly questionable on all but perfect wheels.a slight manufacturing lip error or a slight curb dink or even dirt or thick paint could make a difference this then throws the whole thing out of true. Point being.everythings accuracy depends on the initial accuracy of putting the measurement devices on .being it an engine ,wheel,balancing machine whatever

[TheBoy]

It is really easy to do even without tools.

No, its **IMPOSSIBLE** to do the Omega V6 correctly without the correct locking timing kit.  Absolutely impossible.

You should be able to get it good enough to run, but not correctly.

[TheBoy]

I shall be doing my belt on my 2.6 next month and am using a Kent Moore locking kit which I found on eBay.i obviously havnt tried it on the bottom pulley yet but am intrigued to see how close tolerance it is or how much free movement can be obtained because this ultimately sets the starting point for the whole procedures accuracy.i wonder how the positioning varies with different makes of kit or even different engines ? .so it's a bit like the suspension alignment accuracy.everything depends on how those sensors / pick ups /gauges etc are fitted to the wheels in the first place that can then throw any readings and adjustments out. I remember years ago at many a tyre place they used to use the light bars and bounce back mirrors for front wheel toe setting. Maybe they still do .but they appear to clip onto the wheel rim by 3 sprung little wheels / rollers.the accuracy of such seems highly questionable on all but perfect wheels.a slight manufacturing lip error or a slight curb dink or even dirt or thick paint could make a difference this then throws the whole thing out of true. Point being.everythings accuracy depends on the initial accuracy of putting the measurement devices on .being it an engine ,wheel,balancing machine whatever

I've only ever used SP kits, and its all tight, no play in anything.  If the tools have been use extensively, I guess there is a possibility of wear causing a little play.

[grifter]

Well as dirty harry said a man's got to know his limitations, i certainly won't be trying this without locking kit.

[dbug]

Agree with the above - it's possible to get to an approx setting where the engine will run, without the correct setting kit.  However to get it spot on the correct fitting lit is essential, and I've done quite a few by now.

[Kevin Wood]

Agree with the above - it's possible to get to an approx setting where the engine will run, without the correct setting kit.  However to get it spot on the correct fitting lit is essential, and I've done quite a few by now.

Yep, if I was in a tight spot and absolutely had to get the car back on the road, then I would be confident that I could get it back running without a locking kit (after doing god knows how many of these belts!). I'd be taking it all apart again to check the timing once I'd got a locking kit to it, though.

The thing is, a usable locking kit costs half as much as the belt kit and will last for many changes. Is there any point not using one?

[Stige]

It is really easy to do even without tools.

No, its **IMPOSSIBLE** to do the Omega V6 correctly without the correct locking timing kit.  Absolutely impossible.

You should be able to get it good enough to run, but not correctly.

Why? Done it atleast 5 times already and it's correct every single time somehow, must be a miracle or just pure luck.

[Marks DTM Calib]

It is really easy to do even without tools.

No, its **IMPOSSIBLE** to do the Omega V6 correctly without the correct locking timing kit.  Absolutely impossible.

You should be able to get it good enough to run, but not correctly.

Why? Done it at least 5 times already and it's correct every single time somehow, must be a miracle or just pure luck.

The reality is that's its close enough to run and not damage the engine, correct it is not 

At last count I was into triple figures for V6 cambelt changes and have seen it all, its is pretty surprising how far out setup without the correct timing tool can get it and, how much better they run after the correct setup.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I shall be doing my belt on my 2.6 next month and am using a Kent Moore locking kit which I found on eBay.i obviously havnt tried it on the bottom pulley yet but am intrigued to see how close tolerance it is or how much free movement can be obtained because this ultimately sets the starting point for the whole procedures accuracy.i wonder how the positioning varies with different makes of kit or even different engines ? .so it's a bit like the suspension alignment accuracy.everything depends on how those sensors / pick ups /gauges etc are fitted to the wheels in the first place that can then throw any readings and adjustments out. I remember years ago at many a tyre place they used to use the light bars and bounce back mirrors for front wheel toe setting. Maybe they still do .but they appear to clip onto the wheel rim by 3 sprung little wheels / rollers.the accuracy of such seems highly questionable on all but perfect wheels.a slight manufacturing lip error or a slight curb dink or even dirt or thick paint could make a difference this then throws the whole thing out of true. Point being.everythings accuracy depends on the initial accuracy of putting the measurement devices on .being it an engine ,wheel,balancing machine whatever

There is often a bit of slop in the crank tool position when offered up, my approach is to feel the slop and set the tool to the centre position. That way the error is, best case, removed or, worst case, halved. Key thing is though that the two banks are timed correctly to each other and pretty well the crank (if not spot one)

[grifter]

I am now at the point of putting on the belt and so far have watched video section of reassembly and have installed the new tensioner unit. In the video after installing the belt, the engine is rotated to recheck the cams lining up, and for 3 & 4 cams the bottom tensioner was moved to pull the cams into alignment. However on the 2.6 the bottom idler is not offset, so if when I come to check it and the 3 & 4 are out, how do I, or what do I adjust, to pull those into alignment?

[Kevin Wood]

There's no fine adjustment on the 2.6 for cams 3 and 4, as you say, so you just need to check that they are close. They normally turn out to be spot on even without any possibility of adjustment and, if they're out at all, they'll be a whole tooth out, which is easy to spot and requires the belt to be shifted relative to the sprockets.

[grifter]

Also wondering if top idler, should be at certain position before fitting round cams, i fitted it without moving it, noticed in video it was set to 12 o clock after belt was put on, so tried that and it has left a lot of slack between cams, what position should i put top top idler once belt is round the cams?

[grifter]

Also noticed there's no timing marks on belt for cam or crank, just part no, which is the same, there is on the old belt