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[Doctor Gollum]

Kick panel is outboard side of front foot well. The panel to which you refer is the lower dash infill...

Depends what's being fitted where, but access improves slightly if Glovebox is removed.

There's also a route to the primary cross dash trunking in the upper corners of the radio recess. Again access is improved by removing the radio cage mounting

[tunnie]

I plan to route it underneath the multi-plug at the back of the cage (not the white circle, borrowed image) - through that big gap. Down then out into the footwell area.



From there, I don't know, but to test it works I'll probably just tuck the Bluetooth unit around the kick panel area. The unit I bought is re-chargable, given my now current miles, probably only need charging once every 2-3 weeks. So access not really an issue, long term look to hard-wire a powered version in. 

[tunnie]

I also plan to route the RCA cables, so that they exit the H/U at the same point, underneath the multi-plug.

So when it's pushed back, hopefully nothing will get caught or stuck.

[Doctor Gollum]

Two things...

Lose the cage. And use the telematics plug above the glovebox for permanent power.

[VXL V6]

Does this car have telematics?

Ignition switched available off telephone prewiring, believe telematics is perm live with power down initiated by CAN bus - so SOS calls can power up the unit with ignition off.

[TheBoy]

Surely, the best way is to remove the internals from CDC3, except the vertical board, and put the BT unit in this space. If any buttons need to be pressed on BT unit, mount in such a way they are accessible through CDC flap.

Routing hardwired cables out the back of headunit is going to be somewhere between awkard and a right PITA.


If you want BT unit in a kickwell, cut the wires on the ribbon, and use a TM loom to get the audio feed into the HU (CDC3 audio connections (and CAN connections) appear on 36 way plug).


And DON'T lose the cage, that's not great advice IMHO.

[tunnie]

No telematics, not loosing cage been there before, not doing that again.

Could mount it inside, that’s good shout. Could have cable coming outside as a test from CDC flap, save routing

[tunnie]

More I think about it, mounting BT inside the CDC makes good sense, never taken CDC apart before so need to find nice way to route in the component leads.

Good thing I guess is I can make a small hole to pass through CDC 'outer case' feed the wires up attach to the ribbon.

If I can get little one to bed early tonight, might start making an attempt on this.

[TheBoy]

If mounting internally, I'd solder directly to L/R on the vertical board - some convenient pads at the rear of it (where separate CDC3's have the main connector).

[tunnie]

I can't picture this, as not been there before. Shall see when I get there. 

[Doctor Gollum]

When I said cage, I meant the metal work

[tunnie]

Started stripping down, was going well, then realised my torx set does not go as small as T9 

Off to Amazon....

[tunnie]

Amazon Primed set of suitable screwdrivers for a fiver, should be here tomorrow. 

[tunnie]

My bluetooth adaptor arrived today, it's tiny, will easily sit inside the CDC.

Just need the torx drivers to arrive!

[tunnie]

Right, time for you lot to take the pi$$ big style at my soldering 

No4 is at odd angle, but when twisting them together they just twisted really well, so I just went with it. 1 is kinda ok, the 8 is big messey, but it appears to have good hold.

Let the mocking start......

(want to check it's ok, before wrapping it up and putting it back together. Keen to try it tonight...




I'll of course wrap all of these up, including the cut off section to CDC I'm not using.