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[tunnie]

Right, time for you lot to take the pi$$ big style at my soldering 

No4 is at odd angle, but when twisting them together they just twisted really well, so I just went with it. 1 is kinda ok, the 8 is big messey, but it appears to have good hold.

Let the mocking start......

(want to check it's ok, before wrapping it up and putting it back together. Keen to try it tonight...




I'll of course wrap all of these up, including the cut off section to CDC I'm not using.

Decided to chance it....

/smug mode

It works 

Aux input via RCA 

Need some female/female RCA adaptors to make the bluetooth adaptor work, I also need to swap the GID out, as that goes 'safe' after a few mins.

But means Spotify works in the car. yay!

[VXL V6]

Well done 

Are you going to mod the original unit as well? Save messing with screens

[tunnie]

Well done 

Are you going to mod the original unit as well? Save messing with screens

Cheers 

Managed to find the right couplers last night, so had bluetooth tested and working as well. 

Yes... RE Screens, actually really need to modify the original. Tomorrow for first time this week it's my turn to drive, also have a team event in London I need to drive to and really want my tunes on the way back. Got some things to sort out at home tonight, before I'm allowed play time, so don't want to change the dash at night. Plus I know dash illumination bulbs will go as well.

But I can do soldering at night, so I have my original H/U out and I think I could do it quite quickly. Only difference being the CDC cassette is jammed on this one, guess once stripped it should come out more easily. 

Oh, does anyone know what size the tiny allen screws are, I've lost one.  Rolled down the front of the transmission tunnel. 

I'll also write a guide up, took loads of pictures 

[TheBoy]

You forgot the heatshrink. Obviously that needs to go on before you solder. Schoolboy error

You need to keep the vertical board on cdc3, else you'll get weird errors, and even more fun when you need to pair/depair stuff.

[tunnie]

I just used insulating tape. 

The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?

[TheBoy]

I just used insulating tape. 

The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?

You bloody mongrel, do it again with heatshrink . Tape is too much of a bodge.

I mean the vertical pcb in the cdc3. The red connector plugs into it.

[tunnie]

I just used insulating tape. 

The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?

You bloody mongrel, do it again with heatshrink . Tape is too much of a bodge.

I mean the vertical pcb in the cdc3. The red connector plugs into it.

Yes the PCB board is still in, only part not back is the metal lid to the CDC, to allow easy passing of cables through.

Never used heat shrink, not got any. Want to do original H/U tonight, insulating tape works well enough for me 

[zirk]

Nice work, how did you manage to match the HU left and right high input impedance with the lower BT output impedance, are you using pads or preset Potentiometers for the preamp audio voltage input levels 

[tunnie]

Errrr. Huh.     

RCA from CDC -> RCA 3.5mm Adaptor -> 3.5mm Coupler -> BT Adaptor.

Spotify via the phone works a treat, not done anything else. 

[tunnie]

So did the other H/U last night, I was quite a bit neater with the wiring on this one. Works well, had some great tunes on the go this morning.

Nice to actually get full benefit of Bose setup, rather than crappy radio signal. Lift share buddy plays the Piano and was quite impressed with quality Bose pushes out.

[VXL V6]

Yes, feed the Bose with a decent quality signal and it performs well.

That said, I can tell which one of mine i'm in by the sound quality as there's definite loss of 'tightness' when the speakers have seen a lot of use.

[tunnie]

Yes, feed the Bose with a decent quality signal and it performs well.

That said, I can tell which one of mine i'm in by the sound quality as there's definite loss of 'tightness' when the speakers have seen a lot of use.

Mine has seen very little use as CDC has been broken for ages and only had light radio on in the background.

Next job is to look at hard wire solution for BT adaptor, thinking to tap into 12v socket in the ash tray. Is the ciggy power on front and back sockets, switched? So is killed if ignition is off, even if there is a draw?

[Doctor Gollum]

Rear is certainly ignition driven, might be on the consumer relay front, not sure, might be permanent 

Be neater to hide it above the glovebox and use the Telematics loom for power (switched and permanent) etc...

That said, having the cables exit through the cdc flap is mutually exclusive to hiding everything, so you might as well plug it into the lighter socket.

Through the flap is a good shout though as you could plug in an ipod mini/nano and pop it in the slot out of the way

[tunnie]

CDC flap does give lot of flexibility. However with the original H/U I could not get the cassette to eject, so the whole lot was pulled out. Meaning it sits on the PCB, so not ideal.

Other H/U the CDC is empty so nice little space away from anything, doubt I would use iPod, I really cannot be bothered manually transferring music.

Spotify is the way for me, basically unlimited choice on demand. Will post more pics later of it all setup

[VXL V6]

Ashtray is ignition switched, rear is on the delay timer (I used that one to solder the feed for the hardwired PSU for my dashcam as it allows the unit to run for another 5 or so mins after the ignition is turned off).