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[shyboy]

What are the forum approved methods for locking the crankshaft on a 3.2l auto, prior to pulley bolt removal.
I've dismissed the idea of utilising the water pump housing as too risky from the damage point of view.
The Haynes manual suggests a home made 'lever' tool bolted to the pulley bolt holes. Anyone had success with this method? Does it not obstruct access too much?
Any experiences appreciated.

[biggriffin]

Two ways,
Remove starter, and lock fly wheel, then get long bar or windy gun, and try to undo bolt, when that fails, get an old pulley, weld large bar to pulley, then bolt onto crank, wedge on floor, then get scaffolding pole slide over breaker bar and hope it undoes. 

You might be lucky and it undoes, with a windy gun.

[Nick W]

What are the forum approved methods for locking the crankshaft on a 3.2l auto, prior to pulley bolt removal.
I've dismissed the idea of utilising the water pump housing as too risky from the damage point of view.
The Haynes manual suggests a home made 'lever' tool bolted to the pulley bolt holes. Anyone had success with this method? Does it not obstruct access too much?
Any experiences appreciated.

I bolted a long bar across the crank pulley bolt holes, wedged it against the water pump and heaved on a 750mm long breaker bar to loosen the bolt. It's very tight! A constant force against the pump housing is unlikely to cause any problems.


You'll still need to draw the timing pulley off the crank; adding another couple of holes to the bar, and tapping the centre one makes this easy. You loosely refit the crank bolt, and screw another bolt against it through your newly tapped hole to draw off the pulley.


I have dimensions for this. Somewhere

[raywilb]

What are the forum approved methods for locking the crankshaft on a 3.2l auto, prior to pulley bolt removal.
I've dismissed the idea of utilising the water pump housing as too risky from the damage point of view.
The Haynes manual suggests a home made 'lever' tool bolted to the pulley bolt holes. Anyone had success with this method? Does it not obstruct access too much?
Any experiences appreciated.

on a 2.2dti I removed the crank sensor & inserted a crank locking tool , a breaker bar on the pulley bolt a big jack handle slid onto the bar. it came off easier than I thought it would. 
 
I bolted a long bar across the crank pulley bolt holes, wedged it against the water pump and heaved on a 750mm long breaker bar to loosen the bolt. It's very tight! A constant force against the pump housing is unlikely to cause any problems.


You'll still need to draw the timing pulley off the crank; adding another couple of holes to the bar, and tapping the centre one makes this easy. You loosely refit the crank bolt, and screw another bolt against it through your newly tapped hole to draw off the pulley.


I have dimensions for this. Somewhere

[Andy A]

What are the forum approved methods for locking the crankshaft on a 3.2l auto, prior to pulley bolt removal.
I've dismissed the idea of utilising the water pump housing as too risky from the damage point of view.
The Haynes manual suggests a home made 'lever' tool bolted to the pulley bolt holes. Anyone had success with this method? Does it not obstruct access too much?
Any experiences appreciated.

This is what I did on my 2.2i. Cut a length of 2 inch angle iron, drill two holes and cut a bit away to fit around the crank bolt. Bolt it onto the crank pulley and wedge it on the floor to stop crank turning. Maybe different on the on the V6 engines.

[Nick W]

I didn't take any photos, so here's a quick sketch:





the blue and red bars are just one part, just coloured to show how they are used. The blue one is bolted across two adjacent bolt holes, and wedged against the water pump to lock the crank. The red one is bolted across two opposite bolt holes, and the M8 bolt screwed into the tapped hole in the bar against the loosened(but still installed) crank bolt to draw the timing belt pulley off. You might need to reposition the various fasteners a couple of times.


The bar needs to be much longer than shown

[Marks DTM Calib]

Two ways,
Remove starter, and lock fly wheel, then get long bar or windy gun, and try to undo bolt, when that fails, get an old pulley, weld large bar to pulley, then bolt onto crank, wedge on floor, then get scaffolding pole slide over breaker bar and hope it undoes. 

You might be lucky and it undoes, with a windy gun.

Not recommended, have seen more than one of the sintered woodruff keys sheared on the cambelt lower sprocket via this method. 

Hence why the GM method is to retain the cambelt lower sprocket to stop this happening, this is done with a device that does connect the sprocket to the water pump (I just have a long length of bar with holes drilled such that it bolts to the sprocket)

[Nick W]

Just to add to Mark's last post, I've been writing pulley which suggests I bolted the bar to the aux belt pulley to hold the crank. I actually used the timing belt sprocket, as that reduces the chances of breaking something.

[shyboy]

Thanks for the replies.
It seems I'm a bit over anxious about utilising the water pump, but my bigger problem is tapping a hole for the 'puller' bolt, as I don't have either the tools or experience to achieve this. However, after a lifetime of 'fiddling' with cars it's about time I tackled something requiring proper engineering skill, so I'm going to have a go.
It won't happen for a week or two, but wish me luck. 

[Andy H]

Just to add to Mark's last post, I've been writing pulley which suggests I bolted the bar to the aux belt pulley to hold the crank. I actually used the timing belt sprocket, as that reduces the chances of breaking something.

The timing belt sprocket is the bit that breaks....