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[Matteomart]

I'm looking at wiring diagrams and to me it looks like the car shouldn't be cranking if it is immobilised

[dave the builder]

being the early Omega
does it have the fuel pump relay with the diode and 2 coils (as per omega A) ?
that takes a negative pulse from crank sensor to trigger firing
so if you have a duff one, you could loose spark and fuel IIRC

BUT

still think you need to resolve this non working remote fob / immobilizer

With the omega if you weren't using the fob to lock it you couldn't use your car with just the key?

when you last had it running , did you use the remote to open it ?

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

[Matteomart]

being the early Omega
does it have the fuel pump relay with the diode and 2 coils (as per omega A) ?
that takes a negative pulse from crank sensor to trigger firing
so if you have a duff one, you could loose spark and fuel IIRC

BUT

still think you need to resolve this non working remote fob / immobilizer

With the omega if you weren't using the fob to lock it you couldn't use your car with just the key?

when you last had it running , did you use the remote to open it ?

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

No last time I had it running I'm pretty sure I put the key in the door to unlock it then just got in and started it up. The fob is on a key ring with the key and that's how it used to always start but I just tried holding the fob right against the key and still nothing

[dave the builder]

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

does removing the battery for 10 mins clear the fault codes ?
then try the above sync procedure and see if you get a new code 143 144 or 145 

if your sure you have not lost a transponder chip out the fob or key  worth looking
or do you have a spare key and fob 

[Matteomart]

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

does removing the battery for 10 mins clear the fault codes ?
then try the above sync procedure and see if you get a new code 143 144 or 145 

if your sure you have not lost a transponder chip out the fob or key  worth looking
or do you have a spare key and fob 

There is a ID40 chip in the key the fob doesn't have one and i can't see anywhere that looks like it would have one and no spare key or fob.

I'll remove the battery now and check for codes again

[Andy H]

I'm looking at wiring diagrams and to me it looks like the car shouldn't be cranking if it is immobilised

I can't clearly remember as it 10 years since I sold mine but I think you might be right about not cranking unless the immobiliser is satisfied 

[zirk]

that is not how you test a crank sensor     

 until you sort the remote to lock and unlock the doors, you have to assume the car is immobilized

so start there 

there under 1k, from memory around 800 to 900 ohms when iscolated ie unpluged, if yoh crank it you wont see it moving on the meter, if you remove it and use a knife or simular your just about dedect a few ohms fifference accross the hall effect sensor butas said its not by much.

[BazaJT]

When I had my '95 Elite which had a separate lock/unlock fob from the key at odd times the remote wouldn't unlock the car so I'd unlock it with the key which gave me a couple of seconds or so to get the key into the ignition and turned before the alarm would fire off but it would always start using this method.So if this is an immobiliser issue I'd suggest it's because the chip in the key is not being recognised for some reason.Where was the car kept while not being used?Could damp have got to the fuse/relay boxes causing corrosion of the fuse/relay blades or the connections into which they plug?

[Kevin Wood]

This sounds like a crank sensor issue to me but you can always pull the lid off the fuel pump relay and manually operate the contacts to check that the fuel pump runs.

[Andy H]

being the early Omega
does it have the fuel pump relay with the diode and 2 coils (as per omega A) ?
that takes a negative pulse from crank sensor to trigger firing
so if you have a duff one, you could loose spark and fuel IIRC

BUT

still think you need to resolve this non working remote fob / immobilizer

With the omega if you weren't using the fob to lock it you couldn't use your car with just the key?

when you last had it running , did you use the remote to open it ?

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

I really don't think the 1994-96 cars had a transponder chip. They didn't have the collar round the ignition switch that talks to the transponder chip in later cars.

[MonzaGSE]

being the early Omega
does it have the fuel pump relay with the diode and 2 coils (as per omega A) ?
that takes a negative pulse from crank sensor to trigger firing
so if you have a duff one, you could loose spark and fuel IIRC

BUT

still think you need to resolve this non working remote fob / immobilizer

With the omega if you weren't using the fob to lock it you couldn't use your car with just the key?

when you last had it running , did you use the remote to open it ?

is there an ID40 chip in the key ?
when trying to sync, do you hold the fob next to the key when cranking ?(is there a transponder chip in the fob ?)

lock car,remove battery for 10 mins, unlock car ,key in position 2, aim fob at  sensor for 10 seconds, put fob by key and crank ?

I really don't think the 1994-96 cars had a transponder chip. They didn't have the collar round the ignition switch that talks to the transponder chip in later cars.

Thats right. No chip, no collar around ignition switch on ir cars. Immobilizer is operated with the ir remote together with alarm and central locking.

[Matteomart]

I've ordered a crank sensor which arrives on wednesday, I'll post an update after that is fitted. Thanks for all the help so far. 

[biggriffin]

I've ordered a crank sensor which arrives on wednesday, I'll post an update after that is fitted. Thanks for all the help so far. 

Somebody didn't check the parts for sale,  Hope it's a real sensor.
 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

To the OP, for future reference if you maintain your Omega using genuine parts by walking into the dealer, it will be a very expensive business. There is a cottage industry built up around running these cars on here, plus some on ebay that break Omegas. who have many personal recommendations. 

I'm not aiming to be critical, just I was in a similar situation to you about 4 years ago, and many of the people on here were invaluable not only for advice but spare parts, too. You're very welcome, so please do make use of it.   

[Enceladus]

Code 144 is normal until the car is started, as I recall. 145 isn't, therefore suggests you have an immobiliser fault.
If you open the door with the key as opposed to the remote fob then normal is that the alarm will sound almost immediately. Doesn't prevent the engine being started and the alarm cancelled by using the correct key. So once again sounds like an immobiliser fault.

No spark or fuel suggests the immobiliser unless the relays (under the bonnet) are faulty.

The engine will still crank with a faulty crank position sensor but won't trigger the ignition relay. So no spark. So I suppose you could have a faulty sensor but that wouldn't affect the radio.

One key is marked with a red plastic inset. Maybe try the other key and see does that make any difference.

I would start by removing and fully charging the battery with a good charger. The time-out should reset the ECU. Also I wonder if the spring pin for position 1 of the ignition switch is stuck? Wiggle the key back and forth a bit to see if it frees up.