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[Opelduude]

I have ignored this for a long time but its soon 3 weeks of vacation and time to give some love to the car.
Some days the car hesitates at full throttle and the next day it's all fine. Very annoying because i'm towing a trailer a lot during the summer and need all the power it should have.

No fault codes. I have limited access to live data. I suspect that the o2 sensors are becoming slow to regulate. There is also no difference when i unplug the maf. No engine light and it still runs smooth at idle.

The coil and spark plugs where new last autumn and the valve cover gasket this spring. No oil on the plugs when i checked today. Cleaned the throttle body a couple of months ago too.  Fuel filter and fuel pump was replaced just before i bought it.

[Doctor Gollum]

Sounds like a sticky throttle plate, but... When was the fuel filter last changed?

Also the thinner of the two breather hoses turns to a gooey mess. If it has the consistency of blutac, then change it and report back 

[Opelduude]

The two breather hoses are new because the previous owner could not figure out why the car was erratic. I replaced the coil right after i bought it and solved it. As mentioned he also replaced the fuel pump and the filter right before i bought it.

[Doctor Gollum]

The two breather hoses are new because the previous owner could not figure out why the car was erratic. I replaced the coil right after i bought it and solved it. As mentioned he also replaced the fuel pump and the filter right before i bought it.

Have you personally checked?

[Opelduude]

Yes i have checked both again now. They are not clogged.

[Opelduude]

I tried to replace the maf just for the sake of trying something not so expensive.
No difference at all. I'm beginning to suspect that the throttle body are not working right. When it's cold it sticks at 1500 rpm which i guess is normal when the engine is cold. This "cold start" function lasts much shorter during the hot time of the year.
Since the car runs smoothly and there is no sign of jerking or jumping at full throttle if you understand. It seems like the car only thinks i'm only doing half throttle.  Throttle body costs 350 pounds with discount so i don't want to buy that just to try it.
In case does the new one have to be programmed or adapted to the car?

[Doctor Gollum]

Nah, simply bolt it on, plug it in and fire it up 

[Opelduude]

Going to replace the heater core this weekend.
Can't seem to find the guide for that on this forum anymore?

[Enceladus]

Look in the index page of the maintenance guides here. Scroll down and look for 'heater matrix'. There are two articles. One for remove'/replace and one for flushing/unblocking. I think they're for pre-facelift and your Z22XE must be a post facelift. Unless it's leaking into the cabin I would try and flush it before attempting to replace it. I'm still recovering from the last time I did that.

Last time I disconnected a MAF it triggered the fault light, so I don't get why yours doesn't.

[Doctor Gollum]

Cam sensor or crank sensor or belt timing slightly out.

None will stop it working, but each could cause high rpm hesitation.

When was the belt last changed and was the water pump done at the same time?

[Opelduude]

I'm not planning to pull the whole dash out.
The car is worth 1500 pounds at best so i will just cut in the interior.
The cam belt and all the other parts was changed this spring.

I have concluded that the throttle body is broken, haven't bought a new one yet because the car runs ok for now.

[Doctor Gollum]

I'm not planning to pull the whole dash out.
The car is worth 1500 pounds at best so i will just cut in the interior.
The cam belt and all the other parts was changed this spring.

I have concluded that the throttle body is broken, haven't bought a new one yet because the car runs ok for now.

Then the throttle body works...

Be worth checking the timing... Especially if the correct locking tools weren't used

[Opelduude]

I'm not planning to pull the whole dash out.
The car is worth 1500 pounds at best so i will just cut in the interior.
The cam belt and all the other parts was changed this spring.

I have concluded that the throttle body is broken, haven't bought a new one yet because the car runs ok for now.

Then the throttle body works...

Be worth checking the timing... Especially if the correct locking tools weren't used

Seems more like the throttle body is too slow, the throttle sticks when cold.

I used a cam locking tool so the timing is perfect. I used to be a mechanic and these are one of the easiest engines to replace the belt on, so no need to be sloppy 

[Doctor Gollum]

I'm not planning to pull the whole dash out.
The car is worth 1500 pounds at best so i will just cut in the interior.
The cam belt and all the other parts was changed this spring.

I have concluded that the throttle body is broken, haven't bought a new one yet because the car runs ok for now.

Then the throttle body works...

Be worth checking the timing... Especially if the correct locking tools weren't used

Seems more like the throttle body is too slow, the throttle sticks when cold.

I used a cam locking tool so the timing is perfect. I used to be a mechanic and these are one of the easiest engines to replace the belt on, so no need to be sloppy 

I hope you mean cam locking KIT along with a NEW water pump 

[Opelduude]

Yes all the belonging parts to the cam belt was replaced of course. Tensioner, pulleys, water pump.