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[Diamond Black Geezer]

ICV was cleaned matter of weeks ago, soon as we've had our cornflakes we'll let you know.

[aaronjb]

ICV was cleaned matter of weeks ago, soon as we've had our cornflakes we'll let you know.

Cornflakes? It's 10am! Bloody layabouts 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Well....



still doing it. 

[aaronjb]

You can read live data, IIRC?

How does it look for coolant temp when cold and warming up, plausible?
After that, I'd be thinking the IACV, despite cleaning, is knackered..

I had a car that used to do exactly the same - it would stall and die at the first junction, but only the first junction, after leaving home on a stone cold engine - this is a long time ago but it was the electric choke on the carb causing it; it could hold an idle in N but as soon as you dropped it into D (or stopped in D) it would die. You'd get exactly the same behaviour if the coolant temp sensor is way off base (reading too hot, opening the 'choke' early - in reality, leaning the mixture out) or the IACV can't open fast enough to 'catch' the stall caused by the drag of the TC..

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Coolant temp sensor is genuine GM bought from dealer, and about 3 years old (if the date of purchase - 05/08/16 - approximates date of fitting)

No mean of reading live data - not sure if Mr The Builder had that functionality when he was round, but I don't personally.

I've got a spare 'fine' ICV, I think the original to the car, the one she's got on her was off (like many components) a car in a scrappy (2000 reg FL 2.5 V6) with 37k miles on the clock. So I'd say it's excellent, but I'll swap it, and check the fitted on is ok.

More info - the battery voltage before setting off this a.m. was a slightly disconcerting 12.26v - this is a brand new battery which on delivery had 12.5v  It reminds me of an issue I had last year when I discovered a missing earth wire, which was part of a charging issue. That wire got added. I'm thinking look for bad earths - however I'm wondering if the phrase that spreads fear into the heart of any petrolhead.... 'parasitic drain' is heading into view...

[aaronjb]

If your alternator is good, though, battery voltage won't have a thing to do with it once the car is running - you should be seeing ~14.4-14.7V regardless of what was in the battery before you started the car.. assuming we're talking about the stalling-at-a-junction symptom rather than the sometimes-slow-to-start symptom, of course

Of course.. an intermittent earth could cause the engine to stall - had that once on an MR2.. if the grounds for the coil packs came adrift/loose then the spark would disappear at the same time..

[Diamond Black Geezer]

That was my thought - yes, alternator good, but wondering if the grounds somewhere aren't 100%. The only thing that stops me thinking this is it was only last year, like I say, that I went over everything and I just broke my back taking wires off, looking at bright, shiny metal underneath, that hasn't seen the light of day since 1996 and thinking "yep, that's fine!"

Is it worth me swapping the other purple relay, couldn't hurt I suppose? Mind, the real issue we have is that it wasn't until abut 24hrs before she actually started to repeat the symptoms, so if I went for a drive now, having changed nothing, I suspect she wouldn't 'do it' same as last night, she was fine after fitting the 'Dave the Builder' relay. 

[Doctor Gollum]

Swapping the new relay for the one you didn't swap won't achieve anything as cutting out the supply to either the pump or the injectors has exactly the same effect... It turns the fuel off

A second relay or bridge the fuel pump one, (immediately switch the engine on if you do this and disconnect it as soon as you finish your test drive, not doing so will potentially strain the pump).

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Right 

So both relays 'bridged' or basically clamped in the 'on' position and see if the old brum brum still does 'the thing' and that rules them out. Good. Will have to wait a bit for a proper test as the car's still likely to be a bit warm. Will update...

[Doctor Gollum]

I wouldn't recommend bridging either of them... 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Swapping the new relay for the one you didn't swap won't achieve anything as cutting out the supply to either the pump or the injectors has exactly the same effect... It turns the fuel off

A second relay or bridge the fuel pump one, (immediately switch the engine on if you do this and disconnect it as soon as you finish your test drive, not doing so will potentially strain the pump).

Fair enough 

[terry paget]

Coolant temp sensor is genuine GM bought from dealer, and about 3 years old (if the date of purchase - 05/08/16 - approximates date of fitting)

No mean of reading live data - not sure if Mr The Builder had that functionality when he was round, but I don't personally.

I've got a spare 'fine' ICV, I think the original to the car, the one she's got on her was off (like many components) a car in a scrappy (2000 reg FL 2.5 V6) with 37k miles on the clock. So I'd say it's excellent, but I'll swap it, and check the fitted on is ok.

More info - the battery voltage before setting off this a.m. was a slightly disconcerting 12.26v - this is a brand new battery which on delivery had 12.5v  It reminds me of an issue I had last year when I discovered a missing earth wire, which was part of a charging issue. That wire got added. I'm thinking look for bad earths - however I'm wondering if the phrase that spreads fear into the heart of any petrolhead.... 'parasitic drain' is heading into view...

Just checking - was the engine running before setting off; if so, as Aaron observes, the alternator is no longer doing its stuff, as it was in #14.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Sorry, yes, that 12.26v was engine off. Checked it a little while ago and 12.5v (car been off all afternoon)   

Currently having to make xmas presents, help making Tea, and trying to test my injector relay too 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Took out the other purple relay, 'bench tested' it, clicks away merrily, took apart, cleaned contacts. Stuck it back in. Took a battery reading just out of interest, 12.46v... hopefully that won't drain to a similar level as yesterday, and that low reading was just an anomaly. 

[cam.in.head]

so if im reading correctly car stalls at junctions( in other words when required to idle or as revs are falling) but would happily drive at a constant speed all day long with no issues.?
if this is the case it does eliminate lots of things but would point to something connected to idling only such as icv or throttle stop.
also are the throttle plates nice and clean rather than gunked up.?
if the system works in a similar way to the older jetronic then with the idle valve pipe squeezed closed the revs would drop  very low but the engine would still keep running.
the icv then brings it up to the correct speed via letting air bypass the throttle.
my 2.6 doesnt have this valve and my brothers 2.5 is not here to test it on so i cant give you any presise values at the moment to check.