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[gavlar001]

Hi its gav again was all going well, Bstard bolt has came off eventually lol.Swear box is overfilling but the coolant transfer pipe is welded tight to the thermostat.The old bracket on the transfer pipe cast has broken off where i was hitting it.the thermostat has cracked across the bottom near the bolt but is still fixed in the bolts are loose and ive had them out but put them back in to keep the pressure on it.An ideas drill it out with a series of small holes further up the try and shatter it maybe.Any help would be great thanks Gavin.

[mantaray]

Try spraying the join between thermostat and pipe with WD40,

[gavlar001]

tried some stuff earlier but have done it again i might have to keep soaking it over time.bloody hell unless someones glued it

[Webby the Bear]

I don’t wish to sound like a dick. But I’ve just done mine and it came out with a gentle pull. The silicone grease was still on the O rings! 👍

Right now to actually helping...... just smash it to bits is what I would do. Then replace 👍👍👍

[YZ250]

I split mine where the two parts join by whacking a metal tipped (handle end) screwdriver between the thermostat housing and the transfer pipe. Make sure you cover the sandwich plate area with rag to stop any bits from going where they shouldn't be and leave the thermostat housing bolted tight. If you can get grips on the open end you could try wiggling the life out of it but mine wasn't playing ball that way so I split the transfer pipe where it enters the stat housing. I promised myself that if I ever had to do it again I would dremel a slot in the join and split it open to free the pipe rather than pissing about like I did the first time. 
The annoying part is, if they'd made this pipe an inch shorter it would have come out through the valley side with the stat housing still attached. 

[Webby the Bear]

...or if you want a less violent approach have you got a dremmel or similar? That with a cut off bit will have them in two pieces in under a minute. Anything bigger you may struggle as I know access is tight.

[Webby the Bear]

Too slow 🤣

What he said 👍👍👍

[amba]

That was how I separated mine the first time I changed thermostat.

Ensure B bolt is out and thermostat housing is still bolted down.Get a long thick screwdriver and position it just donw from where pipe enters stat housing.Cover everything with old towel or plenty of rags and hit the screwdriver head with a firm wack..that should split the alloy transfer pipe and then you can take it away in bits.Then undo the stat housing and throw the lot in bin.

Fit new shiny parts and start swearing at B bolt again

[gavlar001]

  gotta love it thanks guys.Glad ive attemped it. I will wait until monday now as im working.Ive got a dremel with a flexi extension put a cut off wheel on it and cut it off.Still its nearly done lol except the bstard bolt getting it back in.Transmission has been working fine since i changed the gear selector switch.I noticed in TIS that they use a kent moore switch unit to set the position as it plugs into the switch, its got lights on it and when lined up they flash.I did see one on ebay other day.

[Webby the Bear]

With upper rad hose and pas pipes in situ I imagine the B bolt would be a pain. I removed pas pipe and upper rad hose entirely. B bolt gave me no issues.

Re the Dremell, I actually bought mine a few weeks back. What a piece of kit. And the extension is genius in my opinion.

[gavlar001]

Yep mate i will take off the power steering res and pipes as you know there aint no room for anything in there.With those out the way should help. Yep the dremel with the extension is good, i dont know why i didnt think of using it lol. Hands are well and truly battered though.Does the engine lift bracket come off it seems to want to just swivel out the way like its attached to something at the bottom and is it lift bracket, dipstick then coolant pipe bracket in that order on the refit.Thanks

[Webby the Bear]

I ditched the lift bracket lol just transfer pipe and dipstick 👍

[YZ250]

.....
Does the engine lift bracket come off it seems to want to just swivel out the way like its attached to something at the bottom ......

It has an angled tab on it so just try different angles to unhook it from its slot. Getting it back in is either really easy or a pain in the arse, as you can't see shit from above so you are working blind. If you don't put it back in, be careful of tightening the B Bolt too much as the engine lift bracket acts as a spacer as well, so you can easily snap the tab off the transfer pipe. Other than that it's quite straightforward. 

[Doctor Gollum]

I ditched the lift bracket lol just transfer pipe and dipstick 👍

That significantly alters the position of the transfer pipe...

If you insist on leaving it out, then you should at least try and space it correctly 

[Webby the Bear]

I ditched the lift bracket lol just transfer pipe and dipstick 👍

That significantly alters the position of the transfer pipe...

If you insist on leaving it out, then you should at least try and space it correctly 

Well it’s been like that for 6 years with no leaks. And no leaks following the stat change so I’m not worried. Though take ur point 👍