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[Auto Addict]

Thoughts on using to power a dash cam please.

[Doctor Gollum]

Personally, I would go straight to the fuse box...

[Nick W]

They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.

[STEMO]

They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.

Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.

[Andy B]

They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.

Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.

I had my Smart's dash cam fed from a permanent live feed via a gizmo that supposedly monitored the battery voltage, so I could use its parking mode. A fortnight sat on my drive while we were away flattened the battery. 

[YZ250]

They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.

Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.

In that case I'd be looking at an auxiliary battery and split charger relay. Surely powering from the OBD port will kill the car battery, or does the adapter switch off the outlet side. I've hard wired our dash cams from the fuse box ignition live using the hard wire kit. The wire goes up the A Pillar (behind the A Pillar airbag) and under the headlining to the rear view mirror. Unfortunately, the dash cam internal battery which should last X amount of time for the motion detection to stay active, goes off with the ignition. 

[STEMO]

They're quite chunky, and you still have to run the power lead to the top of the screen. That always looks terrible unless you can hide all of it behind the trim panels.
A 12v to USB socket adapter is tiny, and cheap; one with just output leads is even more compact.
I would be looking for an ignition switched live near the courtesy light. I used the sunroof feed when I fitted a dashcam to the Omega.

Ignition switched would turn it off when parked up though. Some folk like it on (or, at least, motion sensor switched) permanently.

I had my Smart's dash cam fed from a permanent live feed via a gizmo that supposedly monitored the battery voltage, so I could use its parking mode. A fortnight sat on my drive while we were away flattened the battery. 

According to this a day or two is all you can get before the cut off works, so I guess you're not meant to go on holiday 

https://www.thedashcamstore.com/blog/will-a-dashcam-kill-my-car-battery/

[Auto Addict]

The reason I ask is the Astra K fuse box is under the info display, and I can't see a way to hide the wiring to get to it.

[Doctor Gollum]

Behind the clocks and up the A post... 

[Auto Addict]

Behind the clocks and up the A post... 

Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though

[YZ250]

Behind the clocks and up the A post... 

Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though

If you can find a convenient connection in the boot, can you get an extension/hard wire kit for your dash cam so that you can go above the headlining. When I wired up my rear dash cam I was surprised at how easy I could get a thin three metre piece of trim from the back to the front. I just pulled the headlining down a bit from the tailgate rubber, slid the trim over the headlining and pushed and wiggled it until it came out the front. I taped the cable to it and pulled it through. I then moved it across so that it came out right by the rear view mirror.    Just thought that might be another option if you can hide the wire under the D Post trim.

[Auto Addict]

Behind the clocks and up the A post... 

Can't see how to get the wire into to fuse box though

If you can find a convenient connection in the boot, can you get an extension/hard wire kit for your dash cam so that you can go above the headlining. When I wired up my rear dash cam I was surprised at how easy I could get a thin three metre piece of trim from the back to the front. I just pulled the headlining down a bit from the tailgate rubber, slid the trim over the headlining and pushed and wiggled it until it came out the front. I taped the cable to it and pulled it through. I then moved it across so that it came out right by the rear view mirror.    Just thought that might be another option if you can hide the wire under the D Post trim.

I had thought of that, but the ODBII socket seems the eaiest solution, I would use a switched one that went off with the ignition.

[YZ250]

I can see why you'd be reluctant to start stripping a new car, as was I when I fitted the dash cam in my new cars. Audi fit metal A Post clips which are an absolute shit to get out without bending them.

This guy in the link did it from the fuse box but he did remove the trims. The easiest way is behind the dash and up the A Post door trim rubber, but be aware that doing it that way the cable will cross over the A Post airbag, hence why I removed my trims to get the cable under/in front off the airbag.

https://www.astrakforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3672

If the switched OBD socket is the easiest option, then try that. 

[Auto Addict]

I can see why you'd be reluctant to start stripping a new car, as was I when I fitted the dash cam in my new cars. Audi fit metal A Post clips which are an absolute shit to get out without bending them.

This guy in the link did it from the fuse box but he did remove the trims. The easiest way is behind the dash and up the A Post door trim rubber, but be aware that doing it that way the cable will cross over the A Post airbag, hence why I removed my trims to get the cable under/in front off the airbag.

https://www.astrakforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3672

If the switched OBD socket is the easiest option, then try that. 

Yes, I've seen those photos, I understand that you need to fit the cable under the airbag, which it appears he didn't.

[deviator]

I used an inline cigarette lighter socket and then hardwired it to the back of the stereo. As long as you are careful, you can pick up a switched live pretty much anywhere. I'm not 100% on the output of the obd port having enough current.

EDIT I'm wrong, from a quick Google 5 amp output.