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[Doctor Gollum]

Capri was light as a feather compared to an Omega though. One Omega front seat probably weighs as much as a complete Capri interior.
I agree about trying to turn a big heavy comfy barge into a track / fast road car though.
Its a bit like the old Irish joke "can you tell me the way to Dublin please ?"
"Well, I wouldnt start from here." 
However, if someone really wants to do it, shedding weight would be the best way to go imo.
Not just for straight line performance, but also for braking & cornering.

Only by removing structure, and the Omega doesn't have much of that to begin with, GM preferring to use less, thicker gauge steel than adding reinforcement.

The Barge weighs the same as an Omega but has significantly more metal behind the scenes.

Incidentally, the car in question is a Scimitar, so isn't exactly over weight... The 3.2 should already be a significant upgrade from an Essex V6.

An LS1 with a cam would be nearly twice the output of a 3.2

And about the same price as getting another 30bhp from the 3.2

[Varche]

What about losing weight off the car.

There must  be a lot of weight you could pare off?

Ever been in a car with a stripped interior? It's like climbing into a steel oil drum and having a football team beat the outside with baseball bats. There are sharp edges every where and it looks shit.


You would have to really need any marginal performance increase to put up with one.


I've never understood the fascination of trying to turn a big, comfortable heavy small(ish) engined saloon into a track and road  car by removing all the features that were the original appeal.


And yes, I have tried removing the interior for an increase in performance. We did it at the track during the lunchtime shutdown. Taking all four seats, carpet, sound deadening and the door cards made no difference to 1/4 mile time of a 2.0l Capri, which as a low power car should benefit.

Yes I have several times.  Even down to getting rid of the heater, blower etc. Agree not very comfortable.

[Nick W]

Incidentally, the car in question is a Scimitar, so isn't exactly over weight... The 3.2 should already be a significant upgrade from an Essex V6.

An LS1 with a cam would be nearly twice the output of a 3.2

And about the same price as getting another 30bhp from the 3.2

A stock 2.2 is a significant upgrade from a stock Essex. While an Essex can be improved, it was always expensive due to the number of parts that need to be replaced. And you've still got an engine that weighs more than a SB Ford and 8s far more fragile.


These days, if an LS fits there's little point in fitting anything else. That's especially true if you  think you want more than 400hp.

[Raeturbo]

2.5 and 3.0 engines of a particular build series suffer from external head gasket failure around the rear of the 246 head... Seems to be almost as guaranteed as crank sensor failure.

Not really, and probably not heat related.  MY97.5 3.0l (only) seem a little prone, though not "common" - I think on OOF, we can count maybe a maximum of half a dozen instances, with 2 of those being mine. 1 was MaxV6, I think JamesV6CDX came across one (actually, that might have been MaxV6's)....

[/quote

                 Yes mine I know how to break em . He’s done a great job though it hasn’t  missed a beat since I got it back from him about two years ago.

[MikeyBikey]

Thank you for the input. I have managed to get some pictures uploaded into my original thread here

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=145065.msg1990231#msg1990231

I'm really keen to understand how to get a little more performance out of the Y32SE but not sure to carry on this thread or merge with my original ? Mods night have a view.

I've purchased the turbo and manifold from a 3.0 9-5 saab. It fits the Y32SE but fouls the engine mountings so i cant use it. (Of course its designed for FWD and I have RWD) ! Also its bleddy tiny (1.25 ID output)  So not worth the effort.

There was a suggestion of better cams (aka exhaust ??) The cams i have on the Y32 all have 10 mm lift as standard ?

And or using X25XE heads for better compression. Wikepedia has just about every compression ratio going for the X25XE including some at 11.5. If I'm not going turbo but stick N/A how do I identify the correct ones for 11.5? Is their a GM casting number etc.

cheers

[Doctor Gollum]

Is the issue down to losing the multirams

They ostensibly flatten the torque curve...

[Doctor Gollum]

You notice when one or tother isn't working...

Some info here:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90513.0

[Kevin Wood]

Even if you don't fit the whole "bagpipes" a setup, getting the rear multiram working might gain you a bit of grunt at the top end.
All it needs is an RPM dependent output from the ECU to bring it in and open the valve at higher revs.

Having seen your video, low down torque doesn't appear to be a priority so the whole bagpipe setup might just be more restrictive and lose you power at high revs.

Do make sure you keep the intake temperature as low as possible too. Make sure it's not breathing air that's been through the radiator.

[MikeyBikey]

Hi Kevin, thank you.

At the moment there is no rear multi ram. Or any, actually.  It's blanked off. Part of the clean engine bay look (photo already loaded) meant I removed anything superfluous eg power steering, aircon and of course sensors etc. So knock, cam and air rams all went as well.

[Doctor Gollum]

Fit the short plenum from the pre face-lift,  and you should gain enough room to refit the front multirams.

If you run the intake through the inboard headlights (Dodge Challenger Stylee) that could give you a cold intake for each bank with the front multirams where the current intake is just short of the throttle body...