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[Lizzie Zoom]

My Omega has passed again, but with a couple of advisories on two sections of "corroded but structurally rigidity is not significantly reduced" chassis struts near steering mounting points.

So that will form the first part of my maintenance and repairs for 2023, with a visit first to my local reputable body shop!  Cam belt and exhaust central silencer boxes are then next on the list.

The amazing thing is I only have travelled 1,600 miles since the previous MOT!   That is my lowest mileage ever, so gone are the days of over 100,000 miles over a year  that I did on business

[Andy B]

 

[MikeV6]

My Omega has passed again, but with a couple of advisories on two sections of "corroded but structurally rigidity is not significantly reduced" chassis struts near steering mounting points.

So that will form the first part of my maintenance and repairs for 2023, with a visit first to my local reputable body shop!  Cam belt and exhaust central silencer boxes are then next on the list.

The amazing thing is I only have travelled 1,600 miles since the previous MOT!   That is my lowest mileage ever, so gone are the days of over 100,000 miles over a year  that I did on business

Good to see another one on the road for another year.

B30XE is due one this weekend if i get chance to get it to the MOT Station

[Doctor Gollum]

That will be a complete strip down of the front end to repair properly. Anything else will only be a temporary fix.

[Marks DTM Calib]

That will be a complete strip down of the front end to repair properly. Anything else will only be a temporary fix.

I disagree, it can be done without with skill and care 

[Doctor Gollum]

Surely the subframe needs dropping and the steering box/idler bracket to ensure full assessment and appropriate treatment behind the attachments.

And any repairing of the front lower crossmember would surely be much more comprehensive with the front bumper and cooling pack removed.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Surely the subframe needs dropping and the steering box/idler bracket to ensure full assessment and appropriate treatment behind the attachments.

And any repairing of the front lower crossmember would surely be much more comprehensive with the front bumper and cooling pack removed.

The small areas affected on mine are very accessible from under the vehicle.

[dave the builder]

Congratulations on the MOT pass 

[Sir Tigger KC]

Hello Lizzie! 

Congrats on the pass! 

[Doctor Gollum]

It's what you can't see that matters.

Sure it can be wirebrushed, fibreglassed, Dinitrolled and undersealed to get a couple of years protection an Mot pass, but you can't readily access the chassis frames next to the cats behind the heat shields with the exhaust in the way.

Obviously, the remote diagnosis will always default to the worst case scenario, but if you've owned a rusty Omega then you understand that what you can see is always the tip of the iceberg.

That £2,500 43,000 mile Estate on auto trader being a case in point.

Looked fantastic, MoT fail last week suggests it needs new sills, front rails and a floor pan just to pass, and that's notwithstanding of the various patches it's had for previous Mots.

It will always be worse than it looks.

[Sir Tigger KC]

You're such a cheerful sod! 

[Lizzie Zoom]

You're such a cheerful sod! 

He is

Yes, thanks Sir Tigger.  All I care about is I’ve got the car baring any misfortunes for another year.
I will in any case take it to an excellent body shop near me and get an expert opinion.  The MOT tester treated it as a minor advisory, that eventually should be dealt with.  It’s been like that for three years, so I am not panicking! What will be will be.  It is only a car.

[cam.in.head]

as i have just commented in another thread,every car is different.they all deteriorate/ rust at different rates depending on their history.
this issue is proven by my viva hc. they were know to rust badly even when quite new and often needed inner wing panels,sills and valances .but mine are all original and untouched except the back 6" of one rear sill.the car is used all year round AND stored in a concrete garage not exactly known for their damp free qualities !
its not 100% guaranteed that every know rust area will be a rust area on every car.
my brothers had quite a few rust issues over the years that were dealt with properly and were never an issue again.
mine did have some crusty areas in the front chassis areas but were poked,and hammered to their death to see the extent of the rust and only needed 2 small squares cutting out and grafting in. i use galv plate to repair nowadays and a blasting gun too.i intend to keep mine  forever so am 100% sure to cut out ALL the rust.
your car MAY be quite bad if attacked properly BUT might not be too ?

[cam.in.head]

but also 100% agree with the earlier suggestion that it may  be bad and need a full front end strip to get at everything properly.
in that case you would examine all faces and joints and anything slightly suspect should all be done at the same time whilst you can access the area.
and after that any repairs should be well protected on BOTH sides of the new metal.
(thats for you bob !)  lol

[STEMO]

but also 100% agree with the earlier suggestion that it may  be bad and need a full front end strip to get at everything properly.
in that case you would examine all faces and joints and anything slightly suspect should all be done at the same time whilst you can access the area.
and after that any repairs should be well protected on BOTH sides of the new metal.
(thats for you bob !)  lol

Or......just make the most of another 12 months driving it and hope, next year, that the tester puts down exactly the same advisories. A lot of them do.