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[mattbearman]

I'm trying to do a simple oil and filter change, and I've come up against the dreaded stuck cap on the oil filter housing, and I didn't realise initially that the entire housing was turning.

I've searched the forum and read through countless threads about this, with a couple asking if spinning the housing will damage it, but I couldn't see a definite answer.

I've got a chain type oil filter removal tool, so I'm gonna try to use that to hold the housing still and get the cap off. My plan is to then remove the housing and try to see if the housing/seal looks damaged, but it would be great to know in advance, so I can order the adapter for a spin on filter if needed

[Nick W]

The filter housing has a lug that is supposed to locate it. Once that's broken, you'll struggle to loosen the cap on every filter change because the whole assembly rotates. This is extremely tedious, and will eventually wreck the seal so you gain a massive oil leak right by the oil filter, which cannot be good.


Bin the bloody thing and revert to a normal spin-on filter that has none of these issues, is cheaper, easier to change and makes less mess. Cartridge filters make a good deal of sense when fitted vertically into a securely located housing at the top of the engine - like BMW's M50 etc straight sixes. The V6 installation smacks of engineers with nothing to do fixing problems they invented in the pub.

[johnnydog]

I use a cheap metal band filter wrench that has a thumb screw for adjustment, which I use purely for preventing the housing from turning by wedging it, whilst undoing the cap with a large flexi head ratchet spanner. The thin band is easier to locate on the housing body than a chain. Just ensures the housing body doesn't turn on removal of the cap.

[Andy B]

The filter housing has a lug that is supposed to locate it. Once that's broken, you'll struggle to loosen the cap on every filter change because the whole assembly rotates. This is extremely tedious, and will eventually wreck the seal so you gain a massive oil leak right by the oil filter, which cannot be good.


Bin the bloody thing and revert to a normal spin-on filter that has none of these issues, is cheaper, easier to change and makes less mess. Cartridge filters make a good deal of sense when fitted vertically into a securely located housing at the top of the engine - like BMW's M50 etc straight sixes. The V6 installation smacks of engineers with nothing to do fixing problems they invented in the pub.

Weren't oil filters ALL replaceable element/cartrdge filters at one time? In all the 10 years/100k miles I did oil filter changers on my Omega I never ever had a problem.
Operator error?

[BazaJT]

Yes they were but that was a long time ago.Must say I think one of the best moves I've made with my Omega is to convert it back[they originally had a spin on filter]to the spin on type.

[Doctor Gollum]

Yes they were but that was a long time ago.Must say I think one of the best moves I've made with my Omega is to convert it back[they originally had a spin on filter]to the spin on type.

This

[Andy B]

Yes they were but that was a long time ago.Must say I think one of the best moves I've made with my Omega is to convert it back[they originally had a spin on filter]to the spin on type.

"They" being all of them? Inline 4s & V6s ? ? ?
As above I've never seen a problem with a cartridge type & dont see the spin on as any "better"
If you want to see over complication then look at a Toyota's .... it has a drain in the end that I've yet to undo without the whole ally cap unscrewing .... & you need a specific tool.

[Doctor Gollum]

The filter housing has a lug that is supposed to locate it. Once that's broken, you'll struggle to loosen the cap on every filter change because the whole assembly rotates. This is extremely tedious, and will eventually wreck the seal so you gain a massive oil leak right by the oil filter, which cannot be good.


Bin the bloody thing and revert to a normal spin-on filter that has none of these issues, is cheaper, easier to change and makes less mess. Cartridge filters make a good deal of sense when fitted vertically into a securely located housing at the top of the engine - like BMW's M50 etc straight sixes. The V6 installation smacks of engineers with nothing to do fixing problems they invented in the pub.

Weren't oil filters ALL replaceable element/cartrdge filters at one time? In all the 10 years/100k miles I did oil filter changers on my Omega I never ever had a problem.
Operator error?

Indeed, the cap, like a spin on filter is should be little more than hand tight, not gutentight.

Also, if you lubricate the O ring/deal wot like you're supposed to, and change the filter regularly, then it won't weld the cap/spin on filter in place. Negating the need to use a 2' breaker to remove it.

However, unless you personally have changed the filter every time in the last 20-28 years, then you'll be one overtightened cap away from spinning the housing.

Incidentally, spin on filters are significantly cheaper than the element ones.

[Andy B]

....

Incidentally, spin on filters are significantly cheaper than the element ones.

Cheaper .... because they cost less or cheaper because they're made to a lesser spec? 

[Doctor Gollum]

Yes they were but that was a long time ago.Must say I think one of the best moves I've made with my Omega is to convert it back[they originally had a spin on filter]to the spin on type.

"They" being all of them? Inline 4s & V6s ? ? ?
As above I've never seen a problem with a cartridge type & dont see the spin on as any "better"
If you want to see over complication then look at a Toyota's .... it has a drain in the end that I've yet to undo without the whole ally cap unscrewing .... & you need a specific tool.
[/quote]
Four pots are all spin on

The advantage of the spin on filter is that you can remove it without tools. The way JD describes a filter change sounds like an unnecessary overcomplication, especially when there's a cheap, effective, purpose designed alternative to the chance of breaking the casing.

[Doctor Gollum]

....

Incidentally, spin on filters are significantly cheaper than the element ones.

Cheaper .... because they cost less or cheaper because they're made to a lesser spec? 

I used to bulk buy genuine ones for about £3 each. The cartridge ones were at least twice that.

[Andy B]

Yes they were but that was a long time ago.Must say I think one of the best moves I've made with my Omega is to convert it back[they originally had a spin on filter]to the spin on type.

"They" being all of them? Inline 4s & V6s ? ? ?
As above I've never seen a problem with a cartridge type & dont see the spin on as any "better"
If you want to see over complication then look at a Toyota's .... it has a drain in the end that I've yet to undo without the whole ally cap unscrewing .... & you need a specific tool.

Four pots are all spin on

The advantage of the spin on filter is that you can remove it without tools. The way JD describes a filter change sounds like an unnecessary overcomplication, especially when there's a cheap, effective, purpose designed alternative to the chance of breaking the casing.
[/quote]

I had more cylinders than doors on my Omega so wouldn't know 

Spin on removal without tools .... Is that why you can buy a  strap/chain wrench for their very removal  Or the time honoured screw driver through the side

[Nick W]

Spin on removal without tools .... Is that why you can buy a  strap/chain wrench for their very removal  Or the time honoured screw driver through the side

The same people that overtighten the cartridge filters also do it to spin-ons. At worst you wreck the filter getting it off, which is irrelevant is it was only ever going straight into the bin.


I have both strap and claw type filter wrenches, mainly because I work in the street and they make the job easier with the limited access. I don't think I've ever used them with the car on a lift.


Somebody mentioned that older cars also had cartridge filter. It's true many did, and some of them were even worse implementations than the V6 - FWD A-series are an excellent example, as they use a really flimsy vertical sheet-metal cannister attached with a small but long bolt through the middle sealed with an o-ring under the head. They always leak, snapping the bolt(BLMC quality) is common, and the cannister deforms easily. The cure for all this? A spin-on filter head!

[Doctor Gollum]

Clean the surfaces, oil the seal and one click of the wrist to fit.

Possibly two clicks of the wrist to undo once heatsoaked.

A hand on the filter is alot easier than trying to fight a 24mm socket around the Omega subframe/idler arm/exhaust combo.

Granted, it's less of a burden if you do one filter change a year, but when you're doing it every couple of months, it helps mitigate the CBA factor. 

And there's significantly less chance of breaking something.

[YZ250]

……….
If you want to see over complication then look at a Toyota's .... it has a drain in the end that I've yet to undo without the whole ally cap unscrewing .... & you need a specific tool.

VAG vehicles still use the filter drain in the plastic cap on some models but personally I think it’s safer not to attempt undoing it for fear of damaging it. Much easier/quicker to just undo the cap. Like you, I’ve never encountered a problem with the cartridge type filter.    My oil filter faces upwards so a spin on would make hell of a mess when renewing it.   
As Johnnydog said, if the person thinks it’s exerting too much load on the cartridge body, strap it, although I’ve never needed to do this.