Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[JamesV6CDX]

Tackling the wishbones, droplinks, and track rods over the course of this weekend, on the 3.2.

Couple of very brief questions if I may please. Anyone who knows me will know I am really not a fan of brake and suspension work.

1) I feel I have progressed from the days of just whacking stuff with a hammer...  so does anyone have any recommendations please for suitable balljoint splitters, to free both the bottom balljoint, and the joints on the track rods?

2) The guide mentions raising both sides of the car to relieve tension on the strut caused by the ARB (makes sense). Could it be an alternative, to simply raise one side at a time, but remove the drop-link before the wishbone change, in order to remove the tension? I don't see why not, as this disconnects the strut from the ARB? Am I missing something here?

I only ask because someone borrowed one of my axle stands, meaning I only have one here  I can't obtain it back this weekend and I don't fancy buying a new set just to do one job

Many thanks as always

[Doctor Gollum]

If you can't safely jack and support the car on both sides, don't do the job.

Also, if you're not replacing the tie rods, mark and unwind the adjusters and leave the tie rod end attached to the hub.

Lower ball joint fitting doesn't need a splitter. Remove the nut and retaing bolt with a punch. Then use a pry bar to spread the slot on the hub. It should them pretty much fall out.

But, given the prodding/poking involved, the car MUST be securely supported. However good the Omega is, it's not worth dying for.

[LC0112G]

1) Most ball joint splitter tools like this :https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/automotive/separators-and-coil-spring-compressors/ball-joint-separator/p/KEN5034400K work quite well. You just need one with a wide enough cutout to slide in without damaging the rubber dust cover. Then just crank away with the (typically) 19mm ratchet and it'll pop off. No walloping with a lump hammer. Works well for both ends of a track rod. Does NOT work for centre tie bar ball joints coz you can't get it in.

2) It's jacking up one side of the car that twists the ARB making it difficult to get the drop links in/out. So yes, your solution of removing the drop-links first would work - but to do that you have to be able to get the drop links off without jacking the car. How you gonna do that without a ramp/pit?

[JamesV6CDX]

2) It's jacking up one side of the car that twists the ARB making it difficult to get the drop links in/out. So yes, your solution of removing the drop-links first would work - but to do that you have to be able to get the drop links off without jacking the car. How you gonna do that without a ramp/pit?

1) Jack one side of car and support

2) chop old drop link in half then remove

3) change wishbone

4) repeat on other side

5) pop the new drop links in on Monday (20 minute job) once I’ve got my other stand back.

Would this work? It would enable me to do the bulk of the work this weekend which would make me happy.

Otherwise sod it I’ll just get some more stands

[Jim82]

For the track rod ends I've used this separator which I picked up in my local Halfords:

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/laser-ball-joint-separator-cup-695494.html

[JamesV6CDX]

If you can't safely jack and support the car on both sides, don't do the job.

But, given the prodding/poking involved, the car MUST be securely supported. However good the Omega is, it's not worth dying for.

Thanks DG. I would never consider getting under anything that’s not 100% supported

I don’t think jacking  and supporting one side only, raises a safety issue though? I regularly do that for example - when changing brakes?

[LC0112G]

2) It's jacking up one side of the car that twists the ARB making it difficult to get the drop links in/out. So yes, your solution of removing the drop-links first would work - but to do that you have to be able to get the drop links off without jacking the car. How you gonna do that without a ramp/pit?

1) Jack one side of car and support

2) chop old drop link in half then remove

3) change wishbone

4) repeat on other side

5) pop the new drop links in on Monday (20 minute job) once I’ve got my other stand back.

Would this work? It would enable me to do the bulk of the work this weekend which would make me happy.

Otherwise sod it I’ll just get some more stands

It'll work, but, when you chop the first drop-link, the ARB will 'unload/un-twist itself' with a very loud bang. You will probably also unload yourself as well, resulting in a minimum of a change of underwear.

Having changed underwear no need to chop the second ARB. There will be no load on it, so you can undo-it normally - assuming it's rust free enough to get spanners on it and the nut.

[Doctor Gollum]

If you can't safely jack and support the car on both sides, don't do the job.

But, given the prodding/poking involved, the car MUST be securely supported. However good the Omega is, it's not worth dying for.

Thanks DG. I would never consider getting under anything that’s not 100% supported

I don’t think jacking  and supporting one side only, raises a safety issue though? I regularly do that for example - when changing brakes?

It actually takes a fair amount of leverage to get the arms low enough to get the wishbone ball joint separated and refitted. Only jacking one corner will add torsion to the shell. Ok for changing pads  or a wheel, but not for the kind of pushing and shoving that you'll be doing.

[Nick W]

Thanks DG. I would never consider getting under anything that’s not 100% supported

I don’t think jacking  and supporting one side only, raises a safety issue though? I regularly do that for example - when changing brakes?

There's a considerable amount of prying required to dismantle and the reassemble the parts. It's also much easier if you can easily turn the suspension through its steering arc. And you can get the car higher off the ground with two stands instead of just one.


It's always worth trying to unbolt the droplinks - after wirebrushing the threads and finding a slim spanner to hold the ball while undoing the nut. But don't try too hard; as soon as it becomes a struggle, get the grinder out, and cut off the link as low as you can reach. Then when the strut is unconstrained, slice the top off and remove the remains.


Ball joints:


  the lower one isn't held in with a taper, but is clamped with a pinch bolt. In theory, you just undo it and knock the joint apart. In practice, you remove the caliper for access, pray the bolt doesn't strip when you undo it, knock it out, spread the clamp with a small cold chisel and try not to let it hit your face(ask me how I know ) when bashing the wishbone down. Critically inspect the bolt has the correct sized shank, is straight and otherwise undamaged. Replace it if you have any doubts. None of the other bolts are likely need this.


  The track rod ends are tapers, self locking ones, and by far the best way to separate them is by shocking them apart with a hammer. Use a big one(mine's a 4lb club) and a couple of repeated sharp blows on the housing will soon pop them apart. I've seen more than one lever type ball joint splitter bend without releasing the joint that quickly yielded to the hammer.


The wishbone bolts should be FT and access isn't great, especially to the front. This is where a 1/2" drive 23mm socket, a selection of extensions and a long breaker bar is needed. A 3/8 drive socket might help. Try not to drop the bolt or your socket into the chassis rail when working on the rear bolts.... A cheap cordless impact will be handy once you've loosened the nuts. Ensure you keep the front and rear bolts separate as they're slightly different lengths.


If the bushes are shot(IF? ) then the wishbone will fight you. Teach it a lesson with prybars and your new favourite hammer. It's a bit awkward to get the new wishbone in place with the strut fitted, but doable. Now is the time to break the inner track rod ends.


A tapered drift will help align all three holes for each of the bushes. I like plenty of anti-seize on the bolt shanks. You are fitting poly front bushes aren't you? Don't lose the rear bolt in the chassis rail....


So, don't do this without a pair of stands. Do ensure you have a long breaker to loosen the wishbone bushes. Make sure your hammer is big enough.

[TheBoy]

TRE - Any screw type ball joint splitter is ideal.  The balljoint from track rod to steering idler needs to big hammers and a whack from each side simultaneously, preferably with some tension on the track rod to pop it, as no room for splitters.

Wishbone - yeah, try and jack and support both sides. The drop link is tedious enough without fighting it - tedious as in not hard, just time consuming due to limited space, and usually have to work the thread because of all the years of crap on it.

Wishbone balljoit to hub - remove pinch bolt, then use a small cold chisel to slightly separate the joint (not always needed), then a pry bar to pry wishbone down from hub - the wishbone will put up a lot of resistance, so eat some weetabix first.

It will likely need a camber check afterwards if replacing wishbones in order to protect the front tyres.

[JamesV6CDX]

Many thanks to all for your helpful views and replies.

I am pleased to report that the job is now done. I had to do it across two days (one side a day) due to my back etc, but I still managed to do it alone on the driveway

A few points of note

Don’t shoot me - I did one side at a time. Passenger yesterday, driver today.

The car was solid on the stand and didn’t move a fraction. For added safety I put a big oak tree ring under it too as an insurance. And left my big trolley jack on the jacking point. Wheels also chocked.

Calipers cable tied to the springs so no force on brake hose.

Pinch bots both undid easily and were intact and in good shape. Re-used them.

Removed the NS drop link with the OS wheel on the ground. Very little ARB movement, I just wiggled the link out and the ARB then just dropped a little. Certainly none of the shock I braced for.

I found a draper ball joint splitter I forgot I bought in the shed and it was a game changer.

It popped all of the track rod joints out without thinking about it

I couldn’t find the strength to get the wishbone quite low enough to remove the bottom ball joint from the clamp. So I again used my splitter. I simply put a 3/8 7mm socket in the hole as a drift and this enabled me to press the wishbone completely out with the splitter

New ‘bones went in with minimal jiggling, soon got it so that I could loosely fit the bolts through the bush holes.

I used a bar to then push  the bones down and managed to get the ball joint into the strut without too much fuss. Had to tap it up with a mallet.

I then torqued the rear bushes, and the front pinch bolt. Refitted the brakes, and wheel, and then lowered to the ground. Slowly moved the car back and forth, and then tightened up the front bushes as much as I could with a 3/8 Tommy bar on the bolt, and pushing a ratchet on the nut with my feet. Got it fairly tight. Then raised again for tightening.

New drop links went in fine. Just had to apply a little downward pressure on the ARB to line it up.

Off for alignment on Monday and should be job jobbed.

It’s one of those I never look forward to, but always feel satisfied when it’s done

Having a beer in the pub now. Thanks again

[Doctor Gollum]

Sounds like a job well jobbed

I tend to use a trolley jack handle through the hole in the wishbone to lever it down enough, but it certainly requires a couple of Weetabix

For the alignment, you want the following settings:

Front Camber -1°10

Front Toe -0°03'

Thrust Angle MUST be ZERO.

Rear camber and toe determined by the thrust angle.

Front caster will be about -5° but isn't really adjustable on the Omega... Like rear track/camber it's what it is but provided for reference.

Thrust Angle is adjustable via the rear track rods. If they won't adjust this, take it somewhere else, likewise if they can't set up the front as above.

[TheBoy]

Sounds like a productive couple of days, and no need to rush it

If the old wishbones are genuine, might be worth refurbing them and keeping as spares for next time - polys in the front, GM bushes (they are readily available) pressed in the rear, balljoints rarely need changing unless the seal has failed.

[JamesV6CDX]

Sounds like a productive couple of days, and no need to rush it

If the old wishbones are genuine, might be worth refurbing them and keeping as spares for next time - polys in the front, GM bushes (they are readily available) pressed in the rear, balljoints rarely need changing unless the seal has failed.

I toyed with the idea but sadly they are rusty and battered, I think these ones are for the bin.

I should add the rear bushes were so knackered that I was able to remove one of them
Entirely from the wishbone by hand!! I suspect that is what caused instability when braking!

[TheBoy]

Still worth considering, given that the likes on ATP ones won't last their warranty period....