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[tigers_gonads]

I've got a left hand rear speed / abs sensor fault.
Showing open circuit on the code reader plus no reading on live data.
The other 3 are reading okay.
Are these sensors normally closed and go open as it passes the magnet or vice versa  ?
Or is there a voltage involved ?
5 volt or 12 volt ??

Not got a test meter until tomorrow 

Any info appreciated 

[LC0112G]

No specific info on the Honda, but the sensor is usually a coil and magnet, plus a castellated steel ring attached to the axle or hub. As the peaks and troughs of the steel ring pass in front of the coil, it induces a voltage in the coil. This voltage is AC and quite small - a few tens of millivolts to perhaps a volt.

[tigers_gonads]

No specific info on the Honda, but the sensor is usually a coil and magnet, plus a castellated steel ring attached to the axle or hub. As the peaks and troughs of the steel ring pass in front of the coil, it induces a voltage in the coil. This voltage is AC and quite small - a few tens of millivolts to perhaps a volt.

Thanks for that.
Changed the sensor for a decent one yesterday.
Not a cheap crappy one either 
Made absolutely no difference.
Had a good look at the route the cable takes and it’s now apparent that it runs through the car where I installed the wiring for an amplifier, sub and speaker ect.
Next weekend ( weather permitting) I’ll fold the rear seats out of way, remove carpet and trim and have a look to see if I can see any obvious issues.
If not, it’s splitting the circuit up and continuity checks 

I’ll let you know what I find 😊

[Doctor Gollum]

Not sure if it applies to Honda, but some cars require all the wheel sensors to be changed...

[tigers_gonads]

Not sure if it applies to Honda, but some cars require all the wheel sensors to be changed...

On a couple of facebook / internet forums but nothing like that has been mentioned but standard answer on them is take it to Honda to get your arse abused 
For example, Honda wanted 210 quid plus vat for sensor 😢

[tigers_gonads]

Not sure if it applies to Honda, but some cars require all the wheel sensors to be changed...

On a couple of facebook / internet forums but nothing like that has been mentioned but standard answer on them is take it to Honda to get your arse abused 
For example, Honda wanted 210 quid plus vat for sensor 😢

[cam.in.head]

if you cannot find any specific wiring or connector damage then i would think you have to find the pinout at the abs module connector and check all 4 sensors from there . hopefully one will be missing a resistance and be open circuit.( this is definately preferable to finding all circuits complete here !) then working back to the faulty corner .
sorry if all this makes sense anyway and was what you were going to do !

[Andy B]

is it possible to swap sensors to see if the fault moves?

[tigers_gonads]

if you cannot find any specific wiring or connector damage then i would think you have to find the pinout at the abs module connector and check all 4 sensors from there . hopefully one will be missing a resistance and be open circuit.( this is definately preferable to finding all circuits complete here !) then working back to the faulty corner .
sorry if all this makes sense anyway and was what you were going to do !

I’ll check for signs of damage first.
If not, that’s the next step

[tigers_gonads]

is it possible to swap sensors to see if the fault moves?

Not really Andy
The sensor looms are different lengths and it’s 50 / 50 if the sensor comes out of the hub in one piece anyway,
I had to strip the disc off to clean out the hub after the original fell apart while removing it

[Doctor Gollum]

if you cannot find any specific wiring or connector damage then i would think you have to find the pinout at the abs module connector and check all 4 sensors from there . hopefully one will be missing a resistance and be open circuit.( this is definately preferable to finding all circuits complete here !) then working back to the faulty corner .
sorry if all this makes sense anyway and was what you were going to do !

Fiddly to do, but otherwise straight forward enough. Looking for both continuity and similar resistance readings both static and rotating the wheels in turn.

Much like a compression test, within the same ball park will suggest consistency, but a wildly different reading on one sensor will pinpoint the problem.

If you have a code reader such as icarsoft ii, then once you've checked continuity between the sensors and ECU, then the code reader should be able to produce the live data for any given wheel speed for all the sensors.

If you know the continuity is sound, then you can narrow it down to sensors and reluctor rings.

If the reluctor ring is clean and intact, then you know it's likely the sensor. And vice versa 

[Marks DTM Calib]

You need to be checking wiring, connectors and sensors, some live data when driving would be useful if you have a scan tool that supports it as I would expect you to see a zero reading on that wheel?

If it was reluctor rings then you would see an incorrect/implausible signal DTC as if corroded, cracked, or fallen off, the sensor characteristics are detected but the signal is not as per the module expects to see.

You are getting an open circuit DTC, so you need to focus on the above   

[tigers_gonads]

You need to be checking wiring, connectors and sensors, some live data when driving would be useful if you have a scan tool that supports it as I would expect you to see a zero reading on that wheel?

If it was reluctor rings then you would see an incorrect/implausible signal DTC as if corroded, cracked, or fallen off, the sensor characteristics are detected but the signal is not as per the module expects to see.

You are getting an open circuit DTC, so you need to focus on the above 

Hi Mark, got a Autel plug in dongle with software on mobile phone.
Yes it shows live data with the other 3 wheels reading as per normal.
Left rear (the problem one) shows sensor open circuit and no reading hence me thinking it’s a wiring fault somewhere.
Just in the process of tracking down some wiring diagram’s now I’ve got my test meter back off my lad.

[tigers_gonads]

Finally got time to have another look at this after popping my back last Friday  :'(

Raining a little so up it went on the ramps and I replaced a good 3 foot of the loom from the sensor end which had various tie wraps, sharp bends, wrapped into the existing looms under the boot / rear carpet and into the sill part of the loom. Basically taking a punt on a broken or damaged cable where it is bent or taped into a loom rather then getting water under the bonnet.
I have been all over them while dragging audio cables in last year.
Been for a drive and now after clearing the faults.
Still not playing but the open circuit is now gone but its still showing 18-01 Left rear speed sensor failure.
No intermediate readings on the app.

Going back to the initial fault, I did have to seriously abuse the hub to remove the sensor pieces.
This includes use of a drill.
Is it possible that THAT ABUSE could have 'dangle berries'ed the hub to the point it doesn't even give a reading ?
Personally I thought I would still get a fluctuating reading even after abusing it 

TIA