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[Webby the Bear]

Good evening men, hope you’re all well.

Sprucing up a load of things on the omega. I’m currently fitting the atp 6 piece wishbone kit. I know they get mixed reviews but I’ve used them and personally never had a problem.

Anyhoo, I came across a load of other parts they sell… front shockers and springs in particular.

Anyone ever fitted them and got some feedback on their performance? Mine are, I believe, still the originals on the front.

TIA

[Doctor Gollum]

Uses them to good effect for various bits.

Shocks, Sachs made the original shocks, so are my go to suggestion. For springs, Kilen HD, as per the link in Als parts wanted post.

Sachs also do the front strut/top mount fittings. Their rear shocks included everything.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks Al. I saw the price of a PAIR of atp shocks and got super excited!

I’ll check out the sachs stuff. Cheers mate 😎

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks Al. I saw the price of a PAIR of atp shocks and got super excited!

I’ll check out the sachs stuff. Cheers mate 😎

The Sachs stuff isn't stupid expensive 

[TheBoy]

I found Bilstein B4's lasted well on mine (>100k and I think scrapped with them still on) as well, but I got them at a sensible price.  B4 is supposedly similar to factory spec, though I've heard some say they felt hard (probably because the old shocks they took off were utterly fubar)

[Doctor Gollum]

I found Bilstein B4's lasted well on mine (>100k and I think scrapped with them still on) as well, but I got them at a sensible price.  B4 is supposedly similar to factory spec, though I've heard some say they felt hard (probably because the old shocks they took off were utterly fubar)

The Sachs ones are the factory fit shocks, Bilsteins are an equivalent at best. And their supplied fittings are dire compared to the Sachs ones which are indistinguishable from the genuine VX parts in my experience.

[Doctor Gollum]

Looking at €100 for both rear shocks, and €55 for the front strut fittings and top mount bearings, the mounts themselves are about €26 each.

Even if you buy the cheapest bits off Amazon, rebuilding Omega suspension will leave little change from £500. May as well spend another £100 and use decent bits.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks for input boys.

Got rare day off today so got the osf wishbone and drop link done.

2 things noted…
The strut body on os is quite a lot crustier than when I last looked so they’re defo gonna need doing.

More worryingly the os chassis rail starting to look rough as fuk. I’ll have to recheck but don’t remember the ns looking anywhere near that bad.

I smashed hammer in to it and couldn’t get a hole. But doesn’t look good. Any idea how thick rail is? (from where subframe bolts all way back to the start of the floor pan). I’d put photos up but I’ve no idea how to do that following loss of photo bucket 🪣

I’ve had enough for today but I’m gonna get the dremel out and see what it looks like after a clean up.

Assuming I don’t find any holes have u got any recommendations on rust converter? I used kurust before but apart from it going a little blue it didn’t really do fek all 🤷‍♂️

[Doctor Gollum]

Kurust was going to be my suggestion.

[johnnydog]

After a reasonable clean up (but don't grind all the rust off , just the majority of the crusty stuff as you need some surface rust for it to be effective and the metal will be also be weaker) I use Dinitrol RC900 followed by a coating of Dinitrol 3125, finished off with Dinitrol 4841.
If you Google them, you can decide if they are suitable for your use.
You can also use a nozzle to spray the RC900 through the cut outs in the chassis rail to arrest any corrosion around the subframe mounting points in the chassis rail where they usually rust. You can spray rust proofing wax coatings in their as well, but if any welding is required at a later date, then heat and some wax based products can set your car alight, so it's worth checking the spec sheet before you apply any into the box sections if subsequent welding is a possibility.

[Webby the Bear]

Thanks guys.

Cheers J dog. I’ll check those out! 🥰🥰🥰

Is the chassis rail / leg fairly thick? I’m hoping it’s just unpretty surface rust. I’m hopeful bearing in mind I couldn’t smash any holes.

Is there a way to put photos on here?

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I use Bilthamber Hydrate 80 for rust.

[johnnydog]

Bilt Hamber products are also very good too.
The chassis rail is reinforced above the mounting by the ABS sensor clip, but they also tend to rust and corroded through in the areas either side of that reinforced section as the metal is thinner / weaker.

[YZ250]

……..
Is there a way to put photos on here?

You can register at ImgBB or Postimages for free (others may suggest a different site), and then use the link within that site to post a photo on here. 

[cam.in.head]

the rust converters vary and as mentioned some can work very well but in my experience they only slow down or work for a while and the rust can come back in a few years .by which time it may need a section cutting out and replacing.the other very good method is by sandblasting .this gets rid of all the rust in the nooks and cranny's and is now my go to for any rust issues as it's permanent .(unless it's coming from the other side in which case cutting is the only solution anyway !)
 the main thing to remember if its a car you intend to keep is catching any rust as soon as you find it .it won't go away and will be worse next year . in other words :sand it /convert it or patch it if you intend to keep the car only a few years or do a thorough job and protect it well afterwards if you intend keeping it a long time /indefinately