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[tunnie]

Well there i was going to bed around 11:45... then a car alarm goes off. Ohh damn its mine.

Now the lights where not going off just the high piched wee orrr sound.... my thoughts were backup alarm battery. cause that was beeping a while ago.

The car has also been stood still for nearly a month...

So went out, tryed to start it... was half dead. Few dim lights came one, spanner and EM light flashing.

So got the jump box out attached it the battery and she started.... ok i thought run it for a while take it for a spin get some charge in there and it should be done.

However the hazard warning lights came on (indicators on all around) pressing the alarm off button did'nt do anything. Pressed the boot release button on the remote, that stopped them for a while but they just came on again after a few seconds.

I then pressed "open" on the remote key with the key in the barrel and the engine running.... ohh bugger the whole car went dead, nothing.....

Turn the key off and on again, all that comes on is the "Auto" on the climate system nothing else  

Try and turn it over, nothing it barley manages to turn but i think its immobilsed?

So got out, tryed to lock & open it, see if that would re-set it.... now the lock button on my remote had been dogey for a while, getting harder and harder to press..... sods bloody law it was refusing to lock via the remote... so got my house key and started prodding it... must have done it too hard it just fell to bits   - i was trying to pull up the plastic to get access to the button, but i totally buggered the button, its now in peices!  


I have the remote key, the open button is intact, but if u press it the little red led does not flash, in other words totally buggered my key.

Being lazy and stupid thats my only key!  

I did buy another new one off fleabay but its not been programed to my car yet as i was comming home at xmas to get it done by TheBoy...

So to stop the alarm going off i have disconnected the battery on the car.

I am going to have to get my parents to post me the log book for the car, so i can apply for a Car Pass at the Vaux dealer.

Question is, if i get the car pass... and the new key and forward them to TheBoy, can he program them up without the car being there??

An even better question is when i get the key back how to i get the car running again, as i seam to have emobilsed it as only "Auto" comes on the climate dash and nothing else inside the car.  

Ahh bugger is all i can say and going to bed now, but posting this now while i remember it all.

Thanks in advance

EDIT: The horn was not going off it was just the siren, car not used for 3 weeks. Could the backup alarm battery module take power from the main battery and drain it?

[JamesV6CDX]

What a pain in the ass. I'm sorry to hear this mate.  As you know, I too am being driven to drink by immobiliser probs on the 2.0 project.

I expect Jamie will know all the answers though

[tunnie]

What a pain in the ass. I'm sorry to hear this mate.  As you know, I too am being driven to drink by immobiliser probs on the 2.0 project.

I expect Jamie will know all the answers though

Cheers pal, PM'd him too. I am hoping a new key and a charged battery *should* getting going again.

As per your post... odd about that megga, although have had some comments before about that eBay seller. Very odd the barings should go at just 120K

Not as many pictures on that auction as they usually put on either

[JamesV6CDX]

Sounds like your flat battery is causing a lot of your evils, you may wanna charge it up, and give the car a run every few days

I agree about the split views over trade centre auctions, but the pictures look stunning, if I could get it cheap enough, it would be well worth a transplant I guess...

[tunnie]

trouble is my car keeps eating batterys, its a brand new Vx GO battery thats been in less that 3 months.

Just found out when paintballing on 18th Nov, that was the last time i used the car. so not long ago, and it was a very long 80 mile round trip.

As the backup alarm battery died could it have drawn power from the main battery i wonder...

[Bo Bo]

Sorry to hear about your "mishap", unfortunately I can't be of any help, but someone will be along.
Mine eats batteries too, I can't leave it more than a couple of weeks without it going flat & no-one can find a fault..........

[Auto Addict]

Sorry to hear about your predicament, I'm sure TB will sort you out.

I think I read somewhere in the handbook, if you let the car stand for more than 2/3 weeks you should disconnect the battery, so that infers the alarm/immobilizer must drain the battery.

[Taxi_Driver]

As suggested Tunnie, taking the battery off and giving it a good charge up.....will probably sort the problem.
Even tho a tech2 is clever and TB even cleverer.....you cannot program a key without the car being present.....you are actually programming the ecu to accept the new key.

As yours is a facelift, i assume the remote is part of the key, like mine.
So are you planning in swapping the blades over or getting a blank blade cut for it?

I would think the reason for the siren going off is the that the car battery had drained to a point where the siren alarm had decided someone had disconnected the car battery and hence why it went off.
(The car battery will drain slowly as the alarm system will draw some power)

[Marks DTM Calib]

My sudgestion with the key.....buy one off ebay and send me the remote transmiter, I suspect there is a dry joint on the battery holder which I can fix.

Then fit the casing off the ebay key, the existing transponder and key section and your all done.....

.....I dont know, bloody software lot, always a bull in a china shop approach to problems!  

[theolodian]

The remote part has nothing to do with driving the car.  If you get the car battery sorted, then you should be able to open, close, and drive the car.  As for the remote, mine died b/c the battery carrier broke off of the circuit board.  Acted like a dodgy button.

AFAIK you have to have the keys/remotes to program them to the car.

[tunnie]

Cheers guys.

So i don't actually need the remote part to drive and run the car? - I assumed the tranponder and other bits were in there and are needed.

I have the other key in the car, which is better conidtion, so i just need to swap over the blade and charge the battery?

Back to a newbie here, which bit is the transponder?

Here is my remote:

[Marks DTM Calib]

The actual key part detcaces and then you shoudl see a small transponder bit.


As said, get a key off ebay and send it to me with the damaged remote and I will fix it for you....

[tunnie]

The actual key part detcaces and then you shoudl see a small transponder bit.


As said, get a key off ebay and send it to me with the damaged remote and I will fix it for you....

I already have a nice new key off eBay which i was going to fix up during the holidays...

Just taken it apart, i can see the transponder bit

[tunnie]

my remote is alive!!!! - Well kind of...

Taken the remote to bits, and upon trying to poke the PCB board out i used the flat part of my little screwdriver set. Ones that are silver and have the spinny things on the end, and as i was poking it the little LED flashed.

Just clicked, i can see the to points on the PCB which close to form a circuit when the button is pressed!! arhhhh  

Needless to say my soldering skills are about as good as my maths, so i think i will let MarkDTM's fix it, as he has very kindly offered to do so

[Phil]

When you changed your head unit did you fit the auto leads steering wheel control adaptor (PC-09 or something)??

I had a major problem of my Vectra eating batteries, would go flat after 3-4 days of not using it, thought it was something to do with my mini disc player.

When i swopped all the bits to the Omega battery died before i'd installed the changer.

Turned out it was the steering wheel adaptor for some reason causing the drain, binned it and not had a problem since.