For anybody who is inetrested, my head cleaning processes are as follows:
1) Strip head, remove valves and stem seals and place colets, springs, valve caps and valve bases in solvent part wash.
2) Remove valves, push them into a labeled piece of cardboard so they can be refitted in the correct places
3) Spray head with traffic film remover and using a small stiff brush (washing up brush is perfect) work it in
4) Pressure wash and repeat until all grease and oil is removed.
5) Coat carbonised areas of head and areas with oil staining with paint stripper and leave to stand for 10-15minutes, then work in with an old tooth brush (the paint stripper will destroy it!) and leave for a further 10 minutes.
6) Rinse well
7) Repeat above as required until clean
Clean all mating surfaces with a fine wet and dry (wet) and green scouring pad (stolen from kitchen)
9) Rinse again well.
10) Place each valve in a drill held in a vice
11) With the drill running, clean the valve face and stem to remove any carbon with emery (spit on it to stop it clogging, some soap also helps), then repeat with fine wet and dry (approx 400 grit is good) before running a clean cloth over the valve. Note: do not pace any abrasives on the valve seat!
12) Now re-seat the valves (note, you should only need to use fine paste, these are not A series engines where the valves will be pitted to buggery!)
13) re-assemble the heads.....(new stem seals and exhaust manifold studs and bolts recommended)
14) Fit a spark plug and turn upside down, fill the combustion bowls with a suitable fluid (parafin is perfect, water is NOT ideal due to the surface tension) and leave for half an hour (or even over night). Check the inlet and exhaust ports for signs of fluid leaking passed a poorly seated valve.
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Topic: Project B......now started (Read 15578 times)