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[STMO123]

Yep. Mine was a sticky motor, yours sounds as if it's more serious. Same outcome in the end I'm afraid. Money

[Taxi_Driver]

Hi Guys

Without being able to carry out a couple of tests myself, I suspect it is as 2 off the lads have previosly suggested, that is a faulty 3 way valve. Is it a 3 way valve or 2 zone valves?

It sounds like the micro switch is faulty, it isnt always the case of the switch not making, but that it isnt putting out the required supply to start the boiler and pump.

Do you have the details of the valve motor?

most modern valves have motors that are easy replaced without a drain down.

Its a 3 way valve.....says on it 'acl lifestyle mid position valve' and prolly been fitted for about 12 years, so not exactly modern  

It's done well if it's lasted 12 years......

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

[CaptainZok]

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

I'm sure Mrs TD would be rather cross if she caught you calling her a boiler TD.  

[STMO123]

Bet you carnt guess how old the boiler is?   and that still works

I'm sure Mrs TD would be rather cross if she caught you calling her a boiler TD.  

and sending the poor lady out to work as well

[Kevin Wood]

I would expect a click from the controller with the CH output as well as the hot water. They have a relay for each. Maybe it is a problem with the controller but I can't understand how the heating works in any configuration in that case.

Kevin

[Boiler Man]

Does it look anything like this?

Try This

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/NR/rdonlyres/6FD690B6-A315-4EF2-81A3-32C983351874/0/D42_4DraytonMotorValves.pdf

I'll try to find a wiring diagram, so you can check the power to the differant wires, then you can tell if the programer is working or not.

[Boiler Man]

In the mean time if you ring the telephone number at the bottom of the leaflet, they may email you a wiring diagram.  

[Taxi_Driver]

Does it look anything like this?

Try This

http://www.invensyscontrolseurope.com/NR/rdonlyres/6FD690B6-A315-4EF2-81A3-32C983351874/0/D42_4DraytonMotorValves.pdf

I'll try to find a wiring diagram, so you can check the power to the differant wires, then you can tell if the programer is working or not.

Looking for something else, ive found it! the wiring diagram that came with the controller that is.  

So i took the controller off the bracket....so it left a row of contacts still screwed to the wall.
According to the controller wiring pins 4 and 5 get shorted for heating on
So i shorted them together with suitably insultated long nose pliers, bit of a spark but still zilch.
But i dont know if it needs any other connections made with the controller unplugged for it to work, ie would shorting pins 4 and 5 be enough to fire up the pump and boiler  :-/

I was going to have a look and see if i could then measure anything of use at the connection box.....but it seems whoever installed it originally.....decided a 'proper' connection box was too expensive.....its a row of chocolate block wrapped in insulation tape  

Job for the weekend i think  

Cheers

PS the piccy looks similar but a bit different if you know what i mean.....obviously thats a new one and mine is about 12 years old

[Boiler Man]

I take it your controller is also a Drayton ACL?

You should basically have 1 Live supply out for HW & 1 for HTG.

If your valve is driving to both positions when asked by the controller, then that should mean your controller is okay.

I still suspect its your valve, I have ask around for a wiring diagram for your old style valve, but had no joy.

I have been told by a supplier that if it is the old style drayton, you cant just replace the motor, which will mean a complete new valve. (Im not sure about that though without having the full model and type details)

I'd suggest giving the number on the leaflet a call and asking them (with the model details) and ask the to send you a wiring diagram, before you start shorting anything else out.

They would also tell you if it can be replaced with just a new motor.

Get yourself armed with a wiring diagram before weekend.

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

[Auto Addict]

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

...but he's a Taxi Driver....he'll come and collect you....

[Taxi_Driver]

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

...but he's a Taxi Driver....he'll come and collect you....

That'll be £260 please  

[Taxi_Driver]

I take it your controller is also a Drayton ACL?

You should basically have 1 Live supply out for HW & 1 for HTG.

If your valve is driving to both positions when asked by the controller, then that should mean your controller is okay.

I still suspect its your valve, I have ask around for a wiring diagram for your old style valve, but had no joy.

I have been told by a supplier that if it is the old style drayton, you cant just replace the motor, which will mean a complete new valve. (Im not sure about that though without having the full model and type details)

I'd suggest giving the number on the leaflet a call and asking them (with the model details) and ask the to send you a wiring diagram, before you start shorting anything else out.

They would also tell you if it can be replaced with just a new motor.

Get yourself armed with a wiring diagram before weekend.

I wish I could call round to help you more, but even Swindon is a bit far for a freeby.

Thanks for you help BM and everyone else.

Think im going to visit the Wicks superstore thats just opened in Swindon......see if they have the same controller.....swap them (as its the easiest) if it doesnt fix it....take it back and exchange it for a new 3 way valve.....but i'll check to see if i can just swap the motor part over first (not holding my breath!)

[Kevin Wood]

You're probably better off going to a decent independant plumber's merchant. The big DIY stores will only be able to supply a new complete valve, guaranteed.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Why on earth are you changing the controller when

a) The fault does not sudgest its the controller...
b) You have carried out a test which proves its not the controller....

Plus you have a Screwfix trade counter....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/hlp/TradeCounterSwindon.jsp?ts=73713

Who do the valves etc....

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102632&ts=73565&id=81844

[roaduser]

Ive got exactly the same problem. Ish

when my water is on - fine
when both are on - fine
when ch is on - nothing, just the water being pumped around and the boiler does not fire.

I always thought this was normal lol