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[Debs.]

.....the weather is improved and my miggy`s cooling system is still in bits; so, tomorrow is 'D' day: refit rad., new hose and coolant refill.

I found two little (circa 13 mm. dia.) soft-copper washers laying in the snow under the engine-bay; I`m guessing they fell off (un-noticed) during the wintry-day`s tear down......I think they must be sealing washers from the auto-transmission intercooler`s banjo unions, the question is: do they fit twixt the rad and the banjo union or under the head of the banjo-union bolts?  :-/


I will surely be asking 'supplementals' tomorrow, as I`m concerned that I can`t remember where all the plugs, pipes and wires go......it`s me`age you know!

[sexydaz]

iirc you have one each side

[Bourne]

.....the weather is improved and my miggy`s cooling system is still in bits; so, tomorrow is 'D' day: refit rad., new hose and coolant refill.

I found two little (circa 13 mm. dia.) soft-copper washers laying in the snow under the engine-bay; I`m guessing they fell off (un-noticed) during the wintry-day`s tear down......I think they must be sealing washers from the auto-transmission intercooler`s banjo unions, the question is: do they fit twixt the rad and the banjo union or under the head of the banjo-union bolts?  :-/


I will surely be asking 'supplementals' tomorrow, as I`m concerned that I can`t remember where all the plugs, pipes and wires go......it`s me`age you know!

You shouldn't re-use copper washers if you can help it. Once the grain structure has been compressed they are much less effective.If you really must re-use them, rub them flat both sides on a piece of fine wet & dry to remove any imperfections on the sealing faces & re anneal them.You can do this by putting them in in your oven at 200 degrees on a flat tray & leaving them for an hour,then turn the oven off & leave them to cool overnight. Don't open the door while they're cooling. Slow cooling is key to the process. Hope this helps.

[Andy B]

.....If you really must re-use them, rub them flat both sides on a piece of fine wet & dry to remove any imperfections on the sealing faces & re anneal them.You can do this by putting them in in your oven at 200 degrees on a flat tray & leaving them for an hour,then turn the oven off & leave them to cool overnight. Don't open the door while they're cooling. Slow cooling is key to the process. Hope this helps.

Not with a copper washer. 
You heat to cherry red & quench in water ...... 
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_do_you_anneal_copper is the only place I can find that backs me up .....    

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

.....the weather is improved and my miggy`s cooling system is still in bits; so, tomorrow is 'D' day: refit rad., new hose and coolant refill.

I found two little (circa 13 mm. dia.) soft-copper washers laying in the snow under the engine-bay; I`m guessing they fell off (un-noticed) during the wintry-day`s tear down......I think they must be sealing washers from the auto-transmission intercooler`s banjo unions, the question is: do they fit twixt the rad and the banjo union or under the head of the banjo-union bolts?  :-/


I will surely be asking 'supplementals' tomorrow, as I`m concerned that I can`t remember where all the plugs, pipes and wires go......it`s me`age you know!

......Hmmm........getting on a bit are we Debs..
......best of luck ......I'am  sure  you'll sort it.....If not......... there is always the "Bala Talent"....to fall back on......

[Bourne]

.....If you really must re-use them, rub them flat both sides on a piece of fine wet & dry to remove any imperfections on the sealing faces & re anneal them.You can do this by putting them in in your oven at 200 degrees on a flat tray & leaving them for an hour,then turn the oven off & leave them to cool overnight. Don't open the door while they're cooling. Slow cooling is key to the process. Hope this helps.

Not with a copper washer. 
You heat to cherry red & quench in water ...... 
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_do_you_anneal_copper is the only place I can find that backs me up .....    

Hmmmm.. I'd question that. I spent 11 years as a metal spinner and aside from using an industrial oven with cracker gas (nitrogen & oxygen mix to stop oxidisation) that's the process we always used. Washers are made from ofhc copper (oxygen free high conductivity) beacuse of the tight small grain structure.Quenching will promote honeycombing of the grain and lead to brittleness & fractures.If in doubt which is correct , buy new ones !

[Debs.]

No worries about reuse.....I think I`ve got a tray of assorted new copper washers; but, do I use one washer on each side of the transmission inter-cooler`s banjo union (4 washers in total)......even though I `ve only found 2 washers at tear-down?  :-/

[Andy B]

No worries about reuse.....I think I`ve got a tray of assorted new copper washers; but, do I use one washer on each side of the transmission inter-cooler`s banjo union (4 washers in total)...... 

Yes! Did you completely remove the bolts from the banjos?  You've probably still got 2 between the bolts & the banjos. 

[Andy B]

...... Washers are made from ofhc copper (oxygen free high conductivity) beacuse of the tight small grain structure.Quenching will promote honeycombing of the grain and lead to brittleness & fractures.If in doubt which is correct , buy new ones !

That's waaaay over my head  but quenching in water was how i was taught as an apprentice  :-/  :-/ 

[Debs.]

No worries about reuse.....I think I`ve got a tray of assorted new copper washers; but, do I use one washer on each side of the transmission inter-cooler`s banjo union (4 washers in total)...... 

Yes! Did you completely remove the bolts from the banjos?  You've probably still got 2 between the bolts & the banjos. 

Yes Andy, bolts were both removed, but only two washers recovered. :-?

[Andy B]

.....
Yes Andy, bolts were both removed, but only two washers recovered. :-?

They're not stuck to your rad  perhaps?  :-/ :-/

[Debs.]

.....
Yes Andy, bolts were both removed, but only two washers recovered. :-?

They're not stuck to your rad  perhaps?  :-/ :-/

  Indeed they were!

I got the rad back in......hoses connected.......intake-duct assembly sorted.......electronic plugs/cables and battery connected and refilled the coolant.......started the engine and brought it up to temperature 'milking' the hoses to release air as I topped up any shortfall in the header tank.....the fan eventually started and I`ve called it a day (for today).

However, the small dia. vacuum plastic pipes to the vacuum 'accumulator' have me puzzled: there`s two pipes; one with a tee-piece in it`s 'run' (attached to the intake-duct vacuum valve)  and one without (vacuum straight from the manifold?)......does it matter which way `round they install on the vacuum accumulator nipples?....there`s a small dia. nipple and a large dia. one.....but the rubber-elbows seem equally sized and will hold fast on either nipple.......oh how I wish I`d have taken pictures before I tore into things.:-/

So far, it appears I`ve "dodged the bullet" as there seems to be no head-gasket issues......but, I`ll know more tomorrow when I road test it.

[Dishevelled Den]

Splendid news so far, good luck for tomorrow 8-)

[Andy B]

....
  Indeed they were! ......

At least they were safe & you've found them! 

[Debs.]

However, the small dia. vacuum plastic pipes to the vacuum 'accumulator' have me puzzled: there`s two pipes; one with a tee-piece in it`s 'run' (attached to the intake-duct vacuum valve)  and one without (vacuum straight from the manifold?)......does it matter which way `round they install on the vacuum accumulator nipples?....there`s a small dia. nipple and a large dia. one.....but the rubber-elbows seem equally sized and will hold fast on either nipple.

Found the answer: OOF to the rescue!



Thanks Mark!