I have replaced condensors before only to find I have put a duff one in!
Check the voltage at the negative LT connection on the coil (the one that goes to the points) with respect to the battery negative terminal. It should be close to 12v when points are open. When the points are closed it will either be close to zero or, if there is a ballast resistor in the circuit, 6 or 8 volts or so. Sometimes the LT lead incorporates a ballast resistance and these can go open circuit.
If the LT side is OK as Laidback66 says, it's got to be a faulty coil (then again, you've replaced that) or a failure in the HT leads / dizzy cap / rotor arm. Pull off the centre HT lead from the dizzy cap (the one that comes from the coil) and see if you can draw a spark from this while cranking. If so, I'd suspect the dizzy cap or rotor arm. If no spark here maybe this HT lead is bad or the coil is bad.
Try measuring the resistance of the HT leads with a digital multimeter. They will typically have quite a high resistance, maybe 5000 - 20,000 ohms if they are suppression leads. Check they are all roughly the same, bearing in mind the longer ones will have higher resistance.
Other than that, there's not much more to go wrong. Have you tried a paper clip test?

(I.E. Get Markie to hold a paper clip in the coil ht socket and crank. If you have to collect him from the other side of the garage, coil is fine

)
Bear in mind that the spark plugs might be a bit damp when you do sort out the spark so crank it over with a wide open throttle or better still, take the plugs out and dry them out in a gas flame (SWMBOs gas hob is good for this, when she's not looking).
Kevin