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[Andy B]

Would a cheap clamp type amp meter record DC current?
The spec on this implies it does ......  :-/ :-/

[Radiomarko]

It would read something but with low accuracy, it's a cheap unit as you say. If the current flowing is less than 1A it will probably be misleading. Specialist units are used to read DC current usually.

IMHO ofc

[Kevin Wood]

It looks like it does based on the seller's description and a quick google backs it up.

Manual here: http://www.ageta.hu/pdf/UT203204.pdf

Measurements using a hall effect clamp meter will never be that accurate, especially at low DC currents. The lowest range is 40 Amps so resolution of 10mA. Accuracy 2%+50mA by the look of it.

These devices are more useful for diagnostics than for making accurate measurements, though, and I reckon it'd be worth a punt for that reason. It might not be that great for finding items causing battery drain, for example, going by that spec, though. Depends on your intended use, I'd say.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Got a big bugger for use on the loco....but thats REAL amps!

[Kevin Wood]

Another option for a bit of simple diagnostics, etc:

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=Induction+ammeter&_sacat=0&_odkw=clamp+ammeter&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

Kevin

[Andy B]

Thanks for the replies. One of the uses I'd had in mind was for testing to see whether my caravan fridge was pulling Amps when set to 12v ie cooling when towing. I know it's getting volts from the car, but it never seems to have done anything when traveling. I know I could dismantle bits of fridge to see if the heater was getting hot, but it'd be a lot easier to see if it was pulling 8amps-ish when plugged into the car.
I'm sure it'd get some further use.
I think I'll have to speak nicely to one of the sparks at work and try & borrow their Fluke circuit tester.     

[hercules]

Thanks for the replies. One of the uses I'd had in mind was for testing to see whether my caravan fridge was pulling Amps when set to 12v ie cooling when towing. I know it's getting volts from the car, but it never seems to have done anything when traveling. I know I could dismantle bits of fridge to see if the heater was getting hot, but it'd be a lot easier to see if it was pulling 8amps-ish when plugged into the car.
I'm sure it'd get some further use.
I think I'll have to speak nicely to one of the sparks at work and try & borrow their Fluke circuit tester.     

please dont take this as im saying your daft but i do caravans for a living and its amazing how many(even time served caravanners)dont realise that you have to cool the fridge beforehand and the car will only keep it cold.like said not telling you how to suck eggs but thats the most common reason for people complaining that their car doesnt cool the fridge

[Auto Addict]

Thanks for the replies. One of the uses I'd had in mind was for testing to see whether my caravan fridge was pulling Amps when set to 12v ie cooling when towing. I know it's getting volts from the car, but it never seems to have done anything when traveling. I know I could dismantle bits of fridge to see if the heater was getting hot, but it'd be a lot easier to see if it was pulling 8amps-ish when plugged into the car.
I'm sure it'd get some further use.
I think I'll have to speak nicely to one of the sparks at work and try & borrow their Fluke circuit tester.     

please dont take this as im saying your daft but i do caravans for a living and its amazing how many(even time served caravanners)dont realise that you have to cool the fridge beforehand and the car will only keep it cold.like said not telling you how to suck eggs but thats the most common reason for people complaining that their car doesnt cool the fridge

One of the reasons is the length of cable from the car to the fridge, via a multi plug causing voltage drop, even with the engine running, I doubt whether the full 12v is reaching the fridge.

A trip to France last year via a 6 hour ferry crossing (with the fridge cold before boarding the ferry), and a 6 hour drive, nothing was cold in the fridge, even though all the electrics were working OK.

All to be expected.

[Chris_H]

Thanks for the replies. One of the uses I'd had in mind was for testing to see whether my caravan fridge was pulling Amps when set to 12v ie cooling when towing. I know it's getting volts from the car, but it never seems to have done anything when traveling. I know I could dismantle bits of fridge to see if the heater was getting hot, but it'd be a lot easier to see if it was pulling 8amps-ish when plugged into the car.
I'm sure it'd get some further use.
I think I'll have to speak nicely to one of the sparks at work and try & borrow their Fluke circuit tester.     

If you can get into the circuit at a fuse etc. it's better to use a series ammeter.  With clamp-ons, you need to split the send and return which is not easy if they're in a common sheath.

[Andy B]

If you can get into the circuit at a fuse etc. it's better to use a series ammeter.  With clamp-ons, you need to split the send and return which is not easy if they're in a common sheath.

The 13 core cable from the plug is split inside the 'van to go to the individual loads at two fuse boxes so is quite easy to get to. 

[Andy B]

...please dont take this as im saying your daft but i do caravans for a living and its amazing how many(even time served caravanners)dont realise that you have to cool the fridge beforehand and the car will only keep it cold.like said not telling you how to suck eggs but thats the most common reason for people complaining that their car doesnt cool the fridge

No offence taken  When we got to France last year, the fridge had been chiling for a few days before we set off, and although I'm not expecting it to be like the frozen waste lands of Siberia in there, it was showing signs of defrosting. 
I know how thick some caravaners can be after reading some of the comments on a caravan forum ie why does my mains sockets not work when my caravan isn't plugged into the electric hook up?  :-?  :-?  :-?  :-?

[Andy B]

....One of the reasons is the length of cable from the car to the fridge, via a multi plug causing voltage drop, even with the engine running, I doubt whether the full 12v is reaching the fridge. ......

I've gone a step in the right direction there by ditching the 12N & 12S sockets & going for the better 13 pin single plug & socket on both 'van & car. I see your point though. 

[Auto Addict]

....One of the reasons is the length of cable from the car to the fridge, via a multi plug causing voltage drop, even with the engine running, I doubt whether the full 12v is reaching the fridge. ......

I've gone a step in the right direction there by ditching the 12N & 12S sockets & going for the better 13 pin single plug & socket on both 'van & car. I see your point though. 

Even so, you will never get the fridge cold purely running on 12v.

[Andy B]

....
Even so, you will never get the fridge cold purely running on 12v.   

The fridge was cold befroe we set off & defrosting when we got there ...... the 12volt heater should at least stop it from thawing out - providing it works - hence the DC amp meter ie is it pulling amps when on the car.

[Taxi_Driver]

I have to agree with Hercules and AA.....

Even tho i dont have a caravan....i have a 12V coolbox....and i think most will agree who have one.....the best you can hope is prolong the warming up of the food/drinks.....it certainly wont chill food/drinks, if you put them in room temp....and ive tried leaving mine on for several hours before placing food/drinks in it....it suppose to be 60W.

Tho testing the 12v side of it....will either show its broke or working