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[Markie]

..can someone help me...

Im still having The Boy and his Tractor sized nightmares with one of my projects....THAT vectra.

Now its running and starts on the button - admitedly it doesnt sound quite right but thats probably to do with the engine NEVER getting to operating temperature.

My issue is the flushing and cooling system after my oil cooler fix.

I CANT get the radiator out. Forget it. Its not happening.

Im trying to flush the system using the radiator thats in the car. I have a brand new rad too but i just cant get it removed - ive never seem such a tight working space...

Both top and bottom hoses are nice and soft and push the water in the coolant tank up and down,
Water that comes out top hose is clear when i drain,
Water that comes out of bottom hose is clear when drained.

Theres clearly a huge issue in between though, the Radiator perhaps?

Can someone explain what the flow process is for fluid from expansion tank onwards - maybe that will help me trace my issue...as it seems that whatever i put in the expansion tank comes straight out the bottom hose..

Ive tried the hose and back flushing etc to no avail and when the bottom hose is taken off to flush i get approx 2 litres out and can subsequently get 2 litres in to refill... :-/ Ive also tried running without the coolant top on for a few minutes at a time and every time i get more gunk out....is this advisable to kep doing in short bursts to get more out?

Also ive ran it once till the engine got to about 85 degrees and the top hose blew itself ( and jubilee clip off)  Im therefore reluctant to run it long again as that was a scarey moment  

[TheBoy]

Put in some greaser and flush through. Repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat etc. Each time should shift more and more.

Also, anything you can remove and clean on its own will help, even if you have to keep removing same bits over and over to reclean...

[TheBoy]

Also, if you are only going to run for a minutes or 2, screenwash

(Beware, screenwash is highly flammable!).

As with any chemical, thoroughly flush afterwards.


Once you get a lot out, Forte do a special coolant cleaner designed for the aftermath of an oil cooler failure.  I haven't used it, but the standard Forte coolant cleaner is quite impressive.

HTH

[Markie]

appreciate the help Jamie  

...but the problem is nothing messy is coming out - im draining it straight into a little plastic tub underneath and examining the contents....and its clear water or coolant ( which ever ive put in that particular flush)

...which makes me think theres such a bad block the water is " diverting"

Just gonna persevere like you say untill a better idea comes along....this is harder than the cooler rebuild... :-/

[TheBoy]

appreciate the help Jamie  

...but the problem is nothing messy is coming out - im draining it straight into a little plastic tub underneath and examining the contents....and its clear water or coolant ( which ever ive put in that particular flush)

...which makes me think theres such a bad block the water is " diverting"

Just gonna persevere like you say untill a better idea comes along....this is harder than the cooler rebuild... :-/

You possible do need to get it to stat opening temp, else you are only flushing rad and expansion bottle

[Markie]

appreciate the help Jamie  

...but the problem is nothing messy is coming out - im draining it straight into a little plastic tub underneath and examining the contents....and its clear water or coolant ( which ever ive put in that particular flush)

...which makes me think theres such a bad block the water is " diverting"

Just gonna persevere like you say untill a better idea comes along....this is harder than the cooler rebuild... :-/

You possible do need to get it to stat opening temp, else you are only flushing rad and expansion bottle

aye, actualy your quite correct..so the point whereby running with expansion cap off and i get that surge complete with some gunk....i presume thats the thermostat opening? i think running it like that would be best as running it on a closed circuit is causing hoses to blow off.......trust me i got covered when it happened

[TheBoy]

appreciate the help Jamie  

...but the problem is nothing messy is coming out - im draining it straight into a little plastic tub underneath and examining the contents....and its clear water or coolant ( which ever ive put in that particular flush)

...which makes me think theres such a bad block the water is " diverting"

Just gonna persevere like you say untill a better idea comes along....this is harder than the cooler rebuild... :-/

You possible do need to get it to stat opening temp, else you are only flushing rad and expansion bottle

aye, actualy your quite correct..so the point whereby running with expansion cap off and i get that surge complete with some gunk....i presume thats the thermostat opening? i think running it like that would be best as running it on a closed circuit is causing hoses to blow off.......trust me i got covered when it happened

Yup, and as I said, remove all hoses and clean manually once you have done a few times.

[hotel21]

I did a megga flush on mine last year.  

Removed the expansion tank cap, put the garden hose in and opened the radiator drain tap.  Juggled the flow in from the hose and the output from the drain for a few mins so one equalled the other, then left it and the engine running so it all came up to temp.  Left it like that for some time - hour or so, whilst tidying the garage - and all appeared clear thereafter....

HtH

B

[Martin_1962]

I did a megga flush on mine last year.  

Removed the expansion tank cap, put the garden hose in and opened the radiator drain tap.  Juggled the flow in from the hose and the output from the drain for a few mins so one equalled the other, then left it and the engine running so it all came up to temp.  Left it like that for some time - hour or so, whilst tidying the garage - and all appeared clear thereafter....

HtH

B

Like it

[Paul M]

On any sensibly-designed car I'd suggest removing the stat until you get it properly flushed, but of course on this nightmare of a V6 that requires stripping half the engine off  .

Flushing seems the best option, but if there's a really poor flow through the rad it might be difficult to shift in-situ as you'll probably get a repeat of the pressure build up blowing off a hose. Surely there must be forums out there that have a how-to on removing a V6 Vectra rad? Maybe removing the bumper might make it easier.

Good luck, seems like everyone needs some when working on a VX engine

[TheBoy]

On any sensibly-designed car I'd suggest removing the stat until you get it properly flushed, but of course on this nightmare of a V6 that requires stripping half the engine off  .

Flushing seems the best option, but if there's a really poor flow through the rad it might be difficult to shift in-situ as you'll probably get a repeat of the pressure build up blowing off a hose. Surely there must be forums out there that have a how-to on removing a V6 Vectra rad? Maybe removing the bumper might make it easier.

Good luck, seems like everyone needs some when working on a VX engine

Oh, really don't get me started on BMW engines - the keyboard can't take it

[Markie]

....and dont get me going on vx shoehorning pints into half pint glasses...

I spent all yesterday on the veccy and got no where with regards to the rad.

I spent today on the rover and removed both wings, bonnet, front bumper, headlights,all doors and door cards, radiator and full coolant system, exhaust manifold, inlet manifold, throttle body, skuttle panel.....and various other bits...

[Paul M]

Oh, really don't get me started on BMW engines - the keyboard can't take it

LOL we'll leave fubared diseasels out of it... but I can change the stat on my V8 in 10 minutes, BOTH heater bypass valves (there are two matrices, one for each side) also in 10 mins, oh and a crank sensor in about 5 minutes should I ever need to change it