The tapping in situ is not a brilliant idea....
An understatement

The amount of swarf that is generated drilling and tapping these holes is significant. If the aluminium gets caught between valve and seat (highly likely, the first time you turn the engine over!) that valve will never seal properly and the engine will never perform correctly until rebuilt. The swarf that gets into the cylinder will likely lodge between piston and bore and cause scoring.
This is why engines have air filters. Any ingress of debris into them kills them!
I would run a mile from anyone who claims to be able to tap manifolds in-situ.
Quite apart from the likely engine damage, you have no way of knowing how the nozzle will protrude into the intake tract, whether it will clear gasket surfaces, etc. and how its' "aim" will relate to the incoming airflow.
Here are the steps involved in doing the job properly - possible with the manifold on the engine? I'll let you decide. (and I'm quite happy to do manifolds if members can get them, and the nozzles, to me).

Grind a little flat to start with

Drill the hole, starting small and opening out to 5mm.

Completed hole

A bit of cutting paste on the tap

.. and tap the hole

Clean up around the back of the hole so the nozzle has somewhere to seat.

Insert the nozzle with a little threadlock

A 3mm drill bit or allen key helps with alignment to avoid cross-threading.

One down, five to go.

Clean up the area around the nozzle to help airflow.

Position of nozzles as they emerge.

Smooth off the face of the manifold, especially where the gasket seals.


.. and the swarf that I washed off it afterwards. This is why you don't let a cowboy drill them in-situ.

Kevin