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Author Topic: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl  (Read 2767 times)

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mkaminski100

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Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« on: 18 April 2010, 21:14:21 »

My car is bit rusty so I decided to solve all problems at once and remove all rust and protect it. I will use rust converter, zinc paint and was thinking about putting a layer of Waxoyl .
I was bit surprised to find that there are two products under the same name, one is now made by Hammerite, and second by a company in Switzerland.
First one looks very professional, has to be applied with power gun and cannot be sold to individuals, so nothing for me.
http://www.waxoyl.com/en/
This one is the most popular, but is it really good? Looking through forums, some say that it's the best thing ever, some complain that it's crap. Has anyone tried the Hammerite version?
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/waxoyl.htm
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Olympia5776

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #1 on: 18 April 2010, 21:53:45 »

I'd be very surprised if these products weren't identical as " waxoyl " is a registered trademark name.
It was originally marketed by Finnigans before Hammerite sold it.
I've used it for over 30 years on a variety of vehicles and still use it to this day. I have an Opel Manta that I've owned for 34 years and there isn't a bit of rust on it anywhere and I put that down to proper and regular application of Waxoyl.
Sorry but I've got to say that you shouldn't waste your time and money on the manual Waxoyl pump and applicator.
Use a Schutz gun with the flexible extension .
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Schutz-Shutz-Underbody-Under-Body-Waxoil-Cavity-Wax-Gun_W0QQitemZ290425895501QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint?hash=item439ebb7a4d
Set pressure to around 60 - 80 psi for the gun , a little higher when using the extension.
Place the Waxoyl tin in a bucket of HOT water and once it's liquefied ,ie runny , shake the tin to mix it up. Decant some of it into a used Schutz cannister and thin with about 10% white spirit for the gun probably 20% for the extension. Again , shake up the mix . Remember to return the tin to the bucket of hot water and keep topping it up with fresh hot water.
Prior to applying it I always thoroughly pressure wash the vehicle getting all the muck off right into the corners and chassis rails ,spend as much time as you can here as it pays off in the long run. Let the vehicle dry off for a day ( or two ) if you can.
Place a large sheet of builders plastic underneath and then jack it up as high as you can . Wear overalls and an old woolyhat plus goggles . Get the extension of the gun into every nook and cranny that you can and spray away . If you are doing sills and they are longer than the extension do what I did on my Transit and drill holes along the inside inner sill and then use proper rubber grommets to seal up after you've finished.
Do the underside after that but keep it away from brake hoses and brakes in general. The Schutz gun is quite accurate .
ALWAYS remove the door cards and get it right down into the inner doors , if you cant be bothered to remove them find a suitable hole or grommet and insert the flexible extension as far as you can.Rotate the extension slowly as you insert and or withdraw to give 360 deg coverage .
I normally leave it till it starts to go off and then go over it again to ensure a 100% cover . Don't rush the job.
It's actually much much better to do this job in the summer as it will creep only when the ambient temp. is around 16 deg upwards .
I also use a plunger oil can to get into little holes and corners and always use that tool to spray a wetter mix down the inside of the rear arch betweeen the wing and the wheel tub, this slowly seeps into the rear arch lip joint. On the Omega I also use a plunger oil can with a 20% thinned mixture and using a suitable plastic blade get the spout up under the external door window rubbers and apply plenty. If you have an estate apply as much as you can into the cavity where the rear wiper spindle exits. Like the Manta there isn't any sign of rust anywhere on the Omega either.
Use the plunger gun to do behind body trim where there are trim clips through the bodywork.
Best advice I can give you is to set aside as much time as you can and do it properly , as I said it's messy but well worth the effort.
Good Luck
Incidently over here in Ireland I use Car Plan Tetroseal wax / oil which is exactly the same stuff only cheaper. :y
« Last Edit: 18 April 2010, 21:55:52 by olympia5776 »
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hoofing it

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #2 on: 18 April 2010, 21:57:47 »

I tried the hammerite (big spray tin) on my senny total crap the nozzle clogged after 10 secs and 10mins of shacking no joy.
I got the whole car done properly injected into any hole
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mkaminski100

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #3 on: 19 April 2010, 11:23:19 »

I did a small research and found that the Swiss product is a wax based, hard wax (can't find a safety data sheet for it), whereas Hammerite is more or less a ...White Spirit. Plus it has a Bitumen which contains Sulphur and this with rain water creates a Sulphuric Acid.
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/sds_waxoyl_black.pdf here's an SDS.
Is this a reason why some people complain about it (Hammerite) and some are really happy?
Which product did you use?
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Andy B

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #4 on: 19 April 2010, 11:26:46 »

« Last Edit: 19 April 2010, 11:27:07 by Andy_B »
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Elite Pete

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #5 on: 19 April 2010, 12:13:28 »

Quote
Dinitrol products get good press Marcin. http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=28&frostCat=Rust&subcatID=35&frostSubCat=Dinitrol
As Andy says Dinitrol is good stuff, I believe its a modern version of the older Waxoyl ;)
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mkaminski100

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #6 on: 19 April 2010, 12:33:12 »

I will have a look at this as well. 
I think the main problem is to get rid of rust, which I will do with a rust converter. Then a Zinc paint and a coat of Dinitrol or something similar. Thanks guys
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Olympia5776

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Re: Waxoyl or...Waxoyl
« Reply #7 on: 19 April 2010, 20:35:37 »

Quote
I did a small research and found that the Swiss product is a wax based, hard wax (can't find a safety data sheet for it), whereas Hammerite is more or less a ...White Spirit. Plus it has a Bitumen which contains Sulphur and this with rain water creates a Sulphuric Acid.
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/sds_waxoyl_black.pdf here's an SDS.
Is this a reason why some people complain about it (Hammerite) and some are really happy?
Which product did you use?

If your asking me I used the hammerite version.
Look , don't let the good be the enemy of the great .....
The secret is getting all salt encrusted muck off and out of the car , I cant emphasise enough how important it is to spend time cleaning the vehicle.
If the rust is progressed to corrosion then you will only slow it up not stop it so clean off as much surface rust as you can and if it is corroded then cut it out and weld in replacement metal. The waxoyl will cover thye metal thus preventing air ( oxygen ) getting to the rust and allowing it to progress.
It ain't quantum physics .... clean and apply with some diligence , inspect and re apply as neccessary at regular intervals.
Dinitrol is a very good product and in tests I've seen performs better than Waxoyl but is considerably more expensive than Waxoyl.
If you want to keep your vehicle in rust free condition then you have to put some effort into it and that basically means keeping it as salt free as possible.
Forget about the sulphuric acid , worry about the salt .....
 :y
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