Oil Filter Canister 'Lid' Release

[Lizzie_Zoom]

Yesterday I worked for the first time on a members late, 2003, 2.6 replacing the cam cover gaskets gaskets, breathers and completing an engine service.

For the first time I also encountered a dreaded very tight oil filter canister 'lid'.  As warned by other members previously it had a rounded hole inside the 'nut' section of the lid, and I could not use my usual technique with a 3/8ths socket ratchet handle. 

After much trial and error, I eventually found the ideal tool to get on that 22.5mm 'nut'.  I resorted to the good old imperial sizes and found that a 15/16ths socket is perfect for the job!  Although the ridiculous "heavy handed" tightness of the lid still resisted, it did finally give way. 8-) 8-) 8-)

So, for anyone working on these oil filter canisters the 3/8ths socket ratchet handle, or a 15/16ths socket is the means to release that 'lid'

[Kevin Wood]

Glad it yielded in the end.

Looking at the construction, I would be wary of using too much grunt on the 3/8ths square hole as you'd be liable to crack the casting. Convenient, though, once you know it's not been overtightened.

Better to drive it on the "nut" section as you have done, and better still with a "surface drive" socket.

Kevin

[Sixstring]

And then prepare for the dreaded "warm armpit"..........!!

[Lizzie_Zoom]

And then prepare for the dreaded "warm armpit"..........!!

Not when I do it!

The secret is you undo the 'lid' until the oil is running out into a container, then leave until completely drained.

[Sixstring]

Know that NOW..........
(did'nt the first time!!)

[Kevin Wood]

Not when I do it!

The secret is you undo the 'lid' until the oil is running out into a container, then leave until completely drained.

Problem is, the route it usually takes into the container includes most of my arm.

Kevin

[unlucky mark mv6]

Glad it yielded in the end.

Looking at the construction, I would be wary of using too much grunt on the 3/8ths square hole as you'd be liable to crack the casting. Convenient, though, once you know it's not been overtightened.

Better to drive it on the "nut" section as you have done, and better still with a "surface drive" socket.

Kevin

As i did when i done mine.

[jonnycool]

Still gets me that mechanics tighten them as much as they do, i.e. as tight as humanly possible, when you've got the torque setting on the casing as clear as day. Even normal twist-on filters are only done hand-tight
Jon

[Andy B]

Still gets me that mechanics tighten them as much as they do, i.e. as tight as humanly possible, when you've got the torque setting on the casing as clear as day. Even normal twist-on filters are only done hand-tight
Jon

I see it at work too. You see some fitters (I'm a fitter too) who have to swing off everything to tighten it up, whether it's a M6 in ally or a M20 where they then have to beat it within aninch of its life with a lump hammer.
Hand tight  I worked witha bloke years ago who did stuff up by hand .... I needed a spanner to undo the bugger again     

[pedroMV6]

I tried Lizzie's method on the Elite - but it still wouldn't shift.
Chain wrench sorted it, but I did the chuckaway filter mod on that, and if the MV6 is the same, I'll do the chuckaway filter mod on that too!

[unlucky mark mv6]

Still gets me that mechanics tighten them as much as they do, i.e. as tight as humanly possible, when you've got the torque setting on the casing as clear as day. Even normal twist-on filters are only done hand-tight
Jon

They think if its tight,then it wont leak,but they dont realise the tighter its done up,the more chance there is of it leaking,as it damages the rubber seal.Seemples.