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[Ken T]

'cause I changed the diff at the weekend. That was fun, trying to undo the support bracket bolts, and you end up pushing your self away, cause the friction between you and the ground is not as great as the torque required.

And despite all the oil leaking out, there is a few table spoons full left, so when the diff tilts forward it all pours over the drive, and you can't stop it. 

I discovered the reason for the noise. The front pinion bearing was a bit worn, about 6mm vertical play, plus 5mm forward movement as well. No wonder it was hell to drive, I had to left foot brake to stop the vibration when slowing down.

However I got a diff from a 70K 2.6 car, and its now sooooo quiet, just as a Mig should be. Crusin' time   

Ken

[Brikhead]

Glad you sorted it...

[Andy B]

.....
The front pinion bearing was a bit worn, about 6mm vertical play, plus 5mm forward movement as well.  ....

They're taper bearings aren't they? They were/are on the Senator. There was a little play in the pinion shaft of mine that caused a whine on over-run. IIRC Haynes gave a rolling torque value for the torque on the nut to preload it. I just very gently nipped the nut up on mine which sorted it.
You problem sounds as though the bearing was completely shot though.

[Ken T]

Bearing, what bearing ?. Its absolutely stuffed, the metal flange bit is hanging loose, and you can push the coupling flange back and forth about 5mm.

I'm just sizeing up the metal, I recently got a small milling machine to add to my lathe, and am wondering what I can make from what's left. The main drive shaft bearings would make a good lathe headstock bearing, hmmm

Ken

[Andy B]

Bearing, what bearing ?. Its absolutely stuffed, the metal flange bit is hanging loose, and you can push the coupling flange back and forth about 5mm.

I'm just sizeing up the metal, I recently got a small milling machine to add to my lathe, and am wondering what I can make from what's left. The main drive shaft bearings would make a good lathe headstock bearing, hmmm

Ken

Mmmm! I wonder what I could make with both a miller & lathe at home        

[Ken T]

They're not bad, you can pickup an old British Lathe for £150 ish, which will last you, the Myfords tend to be popular so their price stays high. I picked up an Ideal 3 1/2" lathe with all mod cons, Burnerd 3 jaw chuck, faceplate, 4 jaw, back gear, vertical mill attachment etc, for £250. The mill is a cheap seig X2 type, dangerous electrics, crap components, design is a bit stupid, but its a start, and for £300 I can try before buying a proper one. Bridgeports can be quite cheap, but need a forklift to move them 

Ken

[Andy B]

.... Bridgeports can be quite cheap, but need a forklift to move them 

Ken

In typical Heinz tradition, the morons are taking over the asylum. They replaced a Bridgeport that just needed a couple of quid spending on it, with a cheapo Bridgeport wanna-be .... and then guarded it up so much you can't be ar$ed fighting with all the nannying 'safety' switches. The old one is sitting outside waiting for a new home.
If only I had 3 phase electrickery ....... 

[Ken T]

There is a way....

You can get about 3KW from a normal socket. more if you fit a direct socket, that gives you an unfused feed. I seem to remember the only real motor is the milling head, which can't be that heavy in power. I am currently running my 3ph Hydrovane from one of these cheap 2HP inverters, OK only a couple of horse but it works OK, plus gives you variable speed drive.

Provided the motor can be changed from Star (415V per phase) to Delta (240V per phase), these will work OK. 

Ken

Just think, putting in LPG injectors would be a doddle (sorry Kevin), plus head skiming etc. My problem is my garage is full, else I would buy one asap, so much better than the seig X2 toy.