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[TheBoy]

Not Omega, but Rover.

She was driving home last night (dark), had a short burst of fanbelt squel, followed by battery light and ABS light coming on. Battery light extinguished almost straight away, ABS light extinguished 'some time later'.

Upon checking at lunchtime today, voltage across battery:

Engine off: >12.6v
Idle: 11.5v
2000 rpm: 11.5v


Ign on (engine off), no battery light.
0 ohms between alternator body and batt 0v
0 ohms between alternator main cable and batt 12v
12v at the small wire from battery light on dash where it meets alternator (alternator unplugged), with ign on.
shorting that small wire to 0v brings on battery light.


I think thats conclusive?


Is it worth just getting new 'electronics', a refurb kit, or new alternator? Or just get one from scrappy?


(By electronics, I mean rectifier and regulator. Or are they a single module?)

[henryd]

you could probably get one off a scrapper for a few quid or a recon one from a factor

[cem_devecioglu]

my experience says get it refurbed..(if prices are reasonable)

second hands are untrustable, new is expensive..

also the wiring from alternator to battery may be in badcondition .. also the chasis connection needs checking imo..

[cem_devecioglu]

also check the voltages when ac and lights are on ..
must be at least 12.7v..

[TheBoy]

my experience says get it refurbed..(if prices are reasonable)

second hands are untrustable, new is expensive..

also the wiring from alternator to battery may be in badcondition .. also the chasis connection needs checking imo..

Admittedly a DVM isn't ideal for testing this, but 0 ohms on both 0v and 12v would go a long way to ruling out bad earth or 12v connections?

[cem_devecioglu]

my experience says get it refurbed..(if prices are reasonable)

second hands are untrustable, new is expensive..

also the wiring from alternator to battery may be in badcondition .. also the chasis connection needs checking imo..

Admittedly a DVM isn't ideal for testing this, but 0 ohms on both 0v and 12v would go a long way to ruling out bad earth or 12v connections?

I look for the result.. if voltage drops below 12.7 when ac and lights on , charging is not adequate ..
this summer I spend 2-3 days with clit.. even with new alternator voltage was below 12.7.. and we connected an extra cable from alternator to battery.. also battery clamps must be renewed..

now without any load its 13.2 (idle) and with full load 12.8 volts (lights are xenon)..

[cem_devecioglu]

also some sites states that re-charging voltage must be measured at 2500 rpm .. (which is more logical then measuring at idle) but mine are idle values..

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds like a rectifier went, it all shorted out through the others briefly (hence the slipping fan belt) and then the rest let go.

New rectifier and regulator / brush pack or refurb exchange alternator depending on price and availability, I reckon.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

also some sites states that re-charging voltage must be measured at 2500 rpm .. (which is more logical then measuring at idle) but mine are idle values..

I probablt did hovver up to 4k as I was trying to hold leads on batt, and rev it

[TheBoy]

Sounds like a rectifier went, it all shorted out through the others briefly (hence the slipping fan belt) and then the rest let go.

New rectifier and regulator / brush pack or refurb exchange alternator depending on price and availability, I reckon.

Kevin

Thought the gay of E would give an idea of price, but other than new alternators, no joy for rover 25 k series 1.6....

[cem_devecioglu]

also some sites states that re-charging voltage must be measured at 2500 rpm .. (which is more logical then measuring at idle) but mine are idle values..

I probablt did hovver up to 4k as I was trying to hold leads on batt, and rev it

 

[Kevin Wood]

Might be worth taking it off and making a quick check that the windings haven't been blackened before deciding a course of action.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

Might be worth taking it off and making a quick check that the windings haven't been blackened before deciding a course of action.

Kevin

Yeah, thats what I was trying to avoid - I wanted all bits so I could take it off, fix it, and pop it back on.

Guess if I shuffle the cars on the driveway, so Rover is near the garage, it can stay off for a while

[tidla]

connect the main red lead from the alternator to the body of the alternator and leave for an hour...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Might be worth taking it off and making a quick check that the windings haven't been blackened before deciding a course of action.

Kevin

Yeah, thats what I was trying to avoid - I wanted all bits so I could take it off, fix it, and pop it back on.

Guess if I shuffle the cars on the driveway, so Rover is near the garage, it can stay off for a while

Its got to come off anyway as you need to get the numbers off it.

Rover had a habit of using more than one type of alternator and chopped and changed the supplier quite regularly.

If its a refurb approach then you need bearings, brushs, reg and rec