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[red]

Hi All,
 
Firstly thanks for the many replies to prevous posts!

I originally put this at the end of a previous post, but decided it would better to post here instead.
 
There seems to be an electrical fault but I just can't pin point it, there a few problems and maybe they relate to each other. Now that I have had the car a little longer I will give you what investigative knowledge I have, it aint much!
 
Firstly the Traction Control light seems to come on quite often when I am driving, which is worry in itself as this means traction control is not working. When this happens the temperature gauge goes right up to the top. Also the idle tick over seems erratic when this happens. This can be a litlle dangerous a junctions as the car tries to send you forward as the revs jump up. But if you stop the car and start it up again chances are everything is back to normal. It is strange indeed!
 
I noticed the other night that the temperature gauge went right up the top I experimented parked in my drive. I turned off various electrical gadgets such as lights & air conditioning, when these were turned off the gauge came down and when I turned them on the gauge went straight back up.
 
The temperature gauge does get high without the traction control light coming on but I can't help but think there is some connection between these symptoms.
 
Can anyone help?
 
Cheers, Red.
 

[Admin]

Hmm a little weird, but my first suggestions would be put a multimeter across the battery when the engine is running and check the voltage. It should be between 13.6v and 14.4v. If it is above or below this then you have a problem with the alternator (probably the regulator).

Next thing to try is get a set of jump leads and clamp the negative lead from the battery terminal to somewhere on the engine block where you can get a good earth.

Try these and let us know what happens.

[Markjay]

When the temp gauge goes up, is the engine actually over-heating, or does it look like a guage fluke?

When the temp gauge goes up, do the electrical fans work? And if they don't, do they start working when the temp goes down?

When the TC light comes-on does the ABS light comes-on as well?

Also, can you measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running (it should be ~14V).

*** EDIT: Wow laidback, you'r quick....

[Admin]

[red]

Thanks for that!

The alterator sounds plausable, as when I took this car back to the trader  for the crank shaft sensor, the auto electrician had the car wired to his laptop. He was exremely cagey about what he said to me, as I ssuspect the trader told him to say nothing. However, when he was checking the error logs I did read something on the screen that was stating that the battery level was high and low. So what your saying makes a lot of sense.

Even though this car is under warranty, it aint worth sh*t to be honest. I reckon I'll deal with these issues myself by either fixing it myself or taking it to a garage, I have lost all trust in this trader.

Next job is to get to Halfords for a multitester.

Didn't quite understand the second test you mentioned with the jump leads.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks, Red.

[red]

To answer markjay's questions:

When the temp gauge goes up, is the engine actually over-heating, or does it look like a guage fluke?
I'ts hard to say really. Tried squeezing the hosing as I was recommended trying, they were not that hot or that tight, so there doesn't seem to be much pressure buiding and I am not losing water.
 
When the temp gauge goes up, do the electrical fans work? And if they don't, do they start working when the temp goes down?
When the temp goes up the fans do kick in
 
When the TC light comes-on does the ABS light comes-on as well?
No the ABS light is not coming on.
 
Also, can you measure the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running (it should be ~14V).
That will be my next job.

Thanks for your help, it is appreciated, Red.
 

 

[Admin]

The second test is to check how good the engine earth is.

The jump lead acts as an additional earth, so if it relieves the problem you know you have a dodgy earth.

I would not bother with warranties, they generally are not worth anything. Do the work yourself, at least that way you know what has been done, and the is a great sense of satisfaction!

[red]

Thanks,

Out of interest what is a ball park price for an alternator for my car and where can I buy it from?

Cheers, Red.

[Admin]

Around  £150 for a new one.

However, they can be repaired I gather. Marks DTM can advise on that though.

Do the tests first...

[TheBoy]

Just to confirm what others have said, it does sound like a regulator fault, so measure the voltage across battery with engine revving at about 2500rpm.

I would do this asap, as if the regulator is chucking out 17 - 18v as I suspect it is, you are running a chance of damaging some of the onboard systems....

[red]

Hi,

Just got my multitester and testing the when it idle the readings are between 11.9 - 12.5 volts which is not the 14 volt mark which as I understand is what it should be.

I will go and test at 2500 revs and let you know.

Cheers, Red.

[TheBoy]

At idle, it may be a little low, depending on what other electrical items are switched on...

[red]

Ok,

At 2500rpm the meter read 12.75 so it is still too low even at higher revs.

Does anyone have any pictures detailing where and how to get the alterator off? Also can somebody get me any advice on attempting this?

Don't work in engineering any more but I am reasonably handy with these kind of things.I have a Hayes manual but it doesn't have any pictures of 2.5 engines. I believe that you access it from underneath the car by putting it on axle stands and removing the engine protection plate but I don't know any more than that up to now.

I looked up alternator places in Wigan which where I am based and would you believe it that there is a company called Wigan Alternators.

Oh,  I found this link: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=VAU&h_make=VAU&p_model=%20437. If you look at the bottom it describes how crankshaft sensors can also get ruined by irregular voltage from dodgy alternators. I had my crankshaft sensor changed a week or so back, so it seems even this was caused by the same problem.

If you can help please do, thanks, Red.

[Hillper]

That's a very low reading.  (Assuming the meter is accurate)

Try this

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153772945

[red]

That link look really promising. If in my case it's low voltage then I might get away with just cleaning the connection inside the alternator.

Can I just ask for a quick guide to getting the alternator out of my car? Any pictures on this matter would be great!

Thanks, Red.