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[JamesV6CDX]

As per the title. Project 1 (2 litre) - as you know, I had it running finally after I reconnected the HT leads. Now, I never touched them since, so we KNOW they are in the right positions.

However I went to start the car last night, and it just turned, but wouldn't start. It was trying very hard, and the engine was practically "running" when I was holding the key... pop.. pop...pop.... it was trying SO hard to fire.

I figured the plugs must be flooded which they were - SO I put a dry set of plugs in. A small amount of cranking and she roared into life, and ran for approx 15 seconds, before stopping.

And then - no amount of cranking could get her going again.

On top of this, I think I have caused another issue myself.

I had the jump leads on it, cranking it over, and one of the leads got so hot, it as good as caught fire

Now - even with a fully charged battery on the car (the proven one from my V6) - the engine barely turns over at all, eg flat battery symptoms.

I'm thinking I've probably buggered some electrics such as the loom.

Any advice?

Also, what's causing this bloody engine to decide it's not going to run, after I had it running nicely last time? There's definately fuel, spark, and compression - logic tells me it should fire up!!

A very sad day....

[nixoro]

Maybe a silly suggestions but whats the starter motor doing when your trying to fire it up.

Any signs its working.

You say one of the leads got hot could it be you have fried the dispack. Any way you could try a known working set of leads and another dispack.

When you turn the key in the ignition are the dash lights coming on if so you maybe lucky enough to see if there is any codes stored, may help to diagnose whats hindering the cars start.

[TheBoy]

As per the title. Project 1 (2 litre) - as you know, I had it running finally after I reconnected the HT leads. Now, I never touched them since, so we KNOW they are in the right positions.

However I went to start the car last night, and it just turned, but wouldn't start. It was trying very hard, and the engine was practically "running" when I was holding the key... pop.. pop...pop.... it was trying SO hard to fire.

I figured the plugs must be flooded which they were - SO I put a dry set of plugs in. A small amount of cranking and she roared into life, and ran for approx 15 seconds, before stopping.

And then - no amount of cranking could get her going again.

On top of this, I think I have caused another issue myself.

I had the jump leads on it, cranking it over, and one of the leads got so hot, it as good as caught fire

Now - even with a fully charged battery on the car (the proven one from my V6) - the engine barely turns over at all, eg flat battery symptoms.

I'm thinking I've probably buggered some electrics such as the loom.

Any advice?

Also, what's causing this bloody engine to decide it's not going to run, after I had it running nicely last time? There's definately fuel, spark, and compression - logic tells me it should fire up!!

A very sad day....

Have you replaced that faulty crank sensor yet?

[JamesV6CDX]

Yes mate, it is no different with either crank sensor, and I've proved they both work in another car ...

[TheBoy]

For your current problem, I'm thinking you may have killed the starter motor, hence slow cranking.

[nixoro]

You say you have got fuel in the system is the fuse ok for the fuel system it hasn't blown has it causing the fuel system not to pressurise.

Hope that makes sense.

[JamesV6CDX]

maybe, luckily I do have a spare I can try if I have to

What about the engine running issue? Is it a fuel problem maybe soaking the plugs?

[JamesV6CDX]

Guess that fuse is worth checking, however every time I turn the key I can hear fuel moving, I guess that demonstrates the fuse is ok?

Anyone know where the fuse is - I can sure check it.

Must admit, I'm a bit stuck...

[Marks DTM Calib]

Confirm that all the connections are good.

Is the DIS pack all ok and the connector fully home (it seems that if you fiddly with this area it runs...), leads all ok?

What exactly has been changed, is it the simply the head and block fitted to this car or have certain sensors also been moved across......i.e. throttle pot?

ECU light not flashing?

Note, to clear a flooded engine on an injection car, floor the throttle........at WOT (WIde Open Throttle), when cranking, the injectors do not fire which allows air to dry the cylinders etc out.

[JamesV6CDX]

Thanks mark

The only things that's come over is the block - I'm using the original head and everything else is original.

I knew about the WOT while cranking to clear the plugs - however when I do this is when it generally backfires like a beast!!

Agreed what you said about the DIS connections. I DID find a broken lead, however I've since tried another set and no joy.

I'll have another shot at it tonight....

[nixoro]

Guess that fuse is worth checking, however every time I turn the key I can hear fuel moving, I guess that demonstrates the fuse is ok?

Anyone know where the fuse is - I can sure check it.

Must admit, I'm a bit stuck...

I think if I rememeber right its fuse 18, but it sounds like this isn't your problem.

[Agemo]

It does sound like it is something drastic, however, I would try to push start it (or tow) this eliminates the starter motor. Have you done a paperclip test? Are you sure the timing hasn't slipped? Best of luck mate.
 :-?