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[mike9570]

cheers bud nice 1

[Eliteman Steve]

Let us know how you get on with the studs NIXORO , I'm sure all of us with no experience of removeing a manifold will be interested Should do this job myself on my 2.5V6 but too busy and too scared at the moment

[nixoro]

Let us know how you get on with the studs NIXORO , I'm sure all of us with no experience of removeing a manifold will be interested Should do this job myself on my 2.5V6 but too busy and too scared at the moment

Cheers Eliteman Steve I shall post up how things go on Monday when back in work, the 2.0 manifold should be ok to do its alot less involved than on the v6 models but all the same can have a massive affect.

[nixoro]

Well had one pig of a weekend disconnected the cat on saturday and in the process sheered a bolt.

Bought a manifold gasket from a local parts shop only to be given one for a daewoo x20sed engine great

Removed all the bits from the top and removed the manifold to confirm oil was not being pumped into the cat but did find my rocker cover is leaking from the front and oil was running down the thermostat housing and had seeped into the manifold gasket. Manifold was definately blowing

Refitted everything back minus repairing the sheered nut started her up and it sounded like a right bag of shite.

left the car overnight and got back on it yesterday.

Removed all the bits from the top again, got under the car to disconnect the cat and then moved onto removing the manifold found that definately one stud had snapped and was nice and snug in the block.

With the manifold out of the car I then drilled out the sheered bolt and christened my tap and die kit which not only pushed the remainder of the bolt out but also cleaned the thread.

I then used the tool on the head itself and it worked a treat it even cleaned a thread I thought was knackered, so for the moment it would be held in place by 9 studs which is better than 8 out of 10.

I thought to myself its not worth refitting a new gasket for the time being as I need to get the rocker cover sorted first so I refitted the current gasket after giving it a good clean with spirits.

Refitted the manifold again using 9 studs instead of 8 refitted the cat and now i actually have back pressure and more poke from the engine.

Ideally I would have liked to have removed the snapped stud but getting a drill in was never gonna happen. I plan to redo the manifold and get the stud drilled out and the thread recut before fitting a new  gasket and I will also be getting the rocker cover redone.

Now on the look out for either a right angled drill or a snake piece that goes in the end of a drill which should make life a little easier.

[Auto Addict]

Well done nixoro, life's never easy is it.

[nixoro]

Well done nixoro, life's never easy is it.

Well I'm certainly feeling the effects of the weekend managed to get plenty of battle wounds all over my hands mainly my knuckles.

I am abit gutted though I didn't manage to get the other stud drilled out but on the other hand I am pleased my car is usable for work now.

And even better proved the piston rings or valve seals are still good without having to remove the head. (No signs of oil in the exhaust outlets and in manifold)

The oil in the exhaust has been abit of a worry but I still have time to get it sorted before its next MOT next year which is one saving grace. New cat eventually for me

[Ghosts in my machine]

Did the stud snap flush? Had the same problem with my Landy a few years back. A neighbour got out a very small cold chisel (about the diameter of a pencil) squirted the broken stud with WD-40 and just gave it a tap round with it. Came out a treat. It was jammed in solid before with bi-metallic corrosion.

As to greasing bolts with copper grease before fitting them, just be aware that lubricating bolts changes the torque required for setting them. Torque settings are determined by the type of bolt, application and lubrication. You could end up over-torquing a bolt leading to pre-mature failure.

[nixoro]

Did the stud snap flush? Had the same problem with my Landy a few years back. A neighbour got out a very small cold chisel (about the diameter of a pencil) squirted the broken stud with WD-40 and just gave it a tap round with it. Came out a treat. It was jammed in solid before with bi-metallic corrosion.

As to greasing bolts with copper grease before fitting them, just be aware that lubricating bolts changes the torque required for setting them. Torque settings are determined by the type of bolt, application and lubrication. You could end up over-torquing a bolt leading to pre-mature failure.

No I was unfortunate that it snapped near the end of the bolt inside the head so nothing is sticking out, so not sure really what my next action will be, at the moment I think i will see about getting a drill snake type jobby for better access and gauge the depth and try drilling it out, but I think I will leave it a little while now and keep an eye on it.

[mar892ree]

Well done mate in doing your exhaust manifold.

If your determind to get the broken stud out of the block and DO IT in situ, then you can always use the manifold as a guide !

As you aew well aware, to drill a broken stud out you NEED to be smack on centre of the stud when you drill i to it !

Having a little sleeve made up ( do you know anyone with a lathe ) that slips in to the hole in the exhaust manifold with a 3 or 4 mm hole down the centre of this sleeve will allow you to guide a drill smack on centre in to the broken stud ! Depth can be measured NOT GUESSED, by obtaining a new stud ( which you need anyhow) and just measuring the depth of thread !

As far as being careful of torque setting or values on lubricated bolts, you have to use your common sence here ! A small amount of lubrication will not SIGNIFFICANTLY affect torque value, as these are affected anyhow do to dis=similar metals being used , such as steel bolt in to alloy or cast iron !

Lubricating bolts etc , with a smear of copper grease has many more pro's than con's , due to the fact that dis=assembly at a later date is made so much easier due to the fact that the copper grease slows down , very much, slows down Galvanic reaction between dis=similar metals !

Also bear in mind that replacing your studs and bolts with stainless replacements is even worse than lubricating steel bolts etc !
Stainless has a LOWER tensile strength, and has significantly more drag / friction than steel, so torque values are useless !
Also dont be fooled in to thinking stainless fixings dont rust or react with other metals !
EVERY metal will react ( galvanic reaction) when screwed/ fixed or partnered with another metal, although some pairings will be A LOT slower than others to show reaction !

[nixoro]

Well done mate in doing your exhaust manifold.

If your determind to get the broken stud out of the block and DO IT in situ, then you can always use the manifold as a guide !

As you aew well aware, to drill a broken stud out you NEED to be smack on centre of the stud when you drill i to it !

Having a little sleeve made up ( do you know anyone with a lathe ) that slips in to the hole in the exhaust manifold with a 3 or 4 mm hole down the centre of this sleeve will allow you to guide a drill smack on centre in to the broken stud ! Depth can be measured NOT GUESSED, by obtaining a new stud ( which you need anyhow) and just measuring the depth of thread !

As far as being careful of torque setting or values on lubricated bolts, you have to use your common sence here ! A small amount of lubrication will not SIGNIFFICANTLY affect torque value, as these are affected anyhow do to dis=similar metals being used , such as steel bolt in to alloy or cast iron !

Lubricating bolts etc , with a smear of copper grease has many more pro's than con's , due to the fact that dis=assembly at a later date is made so much easier due to the fact that the copper grease slows down , very much, slows down Galvanic reaction between dis=similar metals !

Also bear in mind that replacing your studs and bolts with stainless replacements is even worse than lubricating steel bolts etc !
Stainless has a LOWER tensile strength, and has significantly more drag / friction than steel, so torque values are useless !
Also dont be fooled in to thinking stainless fixings dont rust or react with other metals !
EVERY metal will react ( galvanic reaction) when screwed/ fixed or partnered with another metal, although some pairings will be A LOT slower than others to show reaction !

Funnily enough my dad was thinking the same thing about creating a sleeve for the drill bit to go into for drilling out that stud.

As for torque values on refitting I just used the values from the Haynes now whether these are wrong or right they seemed to work for me.

I am keen to get the other stud removed but all in good time, as with all things if you bodge it it can open a whole can of worms.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Was the manifold flat or did it need adjusting?

Plus, did you use a Vaux multi layer metal gasket....

[mar892ree]

Exactly mate, careful planning is the best way to go !

Just watch the depth you drill to, someone on this site, all be it a while ago, so cant remember who it was, drilled too deep and struck oil !!!

If you can not get a good line on the broken stud with engine in situ, then dont push the issue ! You will simply just have to put up with having a broken stud or remove head from engine ! 5 minutes bodging can lead to many hours of tears !
I know taking head of the car seems the long way around to do things, but often the longer or harder way is best !

[nixoro]

Was the manifold flat or did it need adjusting?

Plus, did you use a Vaux multi layer metal gasket....

The gasket I used was the multi layer vx metal gasket.

The actual manifold itself I rubbed down with some emery paper and so the mating surface was flat.

[nixoro]

Exactly mate, careful planning is the best way to go !

Just watch the depth you drill to, someone on this site, all be it a while ago, so cant remember who it was, drilled too deep and struck oil !!!

If you can not get a good line on the broken stud with engine in situ, then dont push the issue ! You will simply just have to put up with having a broken stud or remove head from engine ! 5 minutes bodging can lead to many hours of tears !
I know taking head of the car seems the long way around to do things, but often the longer or harder way is best !

I remember reading that a while back, i am not to keen on the idea of head removal as people tell of it becoming a weakness but to me if its done right then all should be ok.

I think in due course I will try drilling it out in situ but for the time being its better than having no car to use.

[mar892ree]

I'm told there is a Company or Companies that are mobile stud drillers !!!!
I know for a fact that some VX dealerships use them, but its just finding out who there are !!!

Might be and idea if you can identify them, for a small cost, you get a job thats done right, if the fluuk it up, you just sue the arse of of them