Absolute doddle if you use freeze spray, such as ambersil or loctite rust freeze/crack , or what ever its called !
As far as welding on to the end of broken stud, well FORGET IT unless you have a TIG plant / welding set !
You are far more likely to do more damage to the surrounding area using arc or MIG !
Gas tourch might be OK, but a naked flame on an engine urmmmmmmmmmm !!
You will also find that the VERY elevated heat put in to the broken stud and surrounding area will 99% of the time release the broken stud due to expansion of the metals etc ,and also the cracking of the oxides ( rust etc )
Also remember EVERY metal rusts or oxides, doesnt have to be red rust !!! Also there's galvanic reaction to contend with ( reaction between two disimilar metals, with moisture /water acting as the electrolite ! )
Galvanic reaction is a right barstewart, and far worse to contend with than rust alone !
I have known galvanic reaction to absolutly seize metals together and needing literally hundreds of tons of pressure to part them !
Hence the reason to always put a VERY slight smear of copper grease on bolts and studs especially when screwing them in to a disimilar metal such as steel studs in to an ally head or cast block !
The copper grease will slow down the galvanic reaction A LOT !
mARK