Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[JamesV6CDX]

I hope it's ok to create this new thread about this, the other one got a bit messy and sidetracked with all the crap about fitting a dizzy  

Following Mark's advice, I have been down to the car, and checked the connector on the DIS. Visually, it looks fine, wires are all in-tact and connections are where they should be. I connected the timing gun, and cranked the engine over just a couple of times with the gun on each cylinder.

Number 1 - nothing.
Number 2 - flashes (sparking)
Number 3 - flashes (sparking)
Number 4 - nothing.

So, this has definately narrowed it down to an ignition problem. I tried 2 DIS packs tonight, and got the same results as above with either DIS, so it's very unlikely that's the culprit.

This idea about wiring is sounding the most likely. On Wednesday of this week I've a day off, so I'm hoping to collect as much information as possible, as I'm prepared to spend the whole day troubleshooting this.  

First job is to check that the wires in the DIS pack connector meet up with the corresponding pins at the ECU. Can I just do this with a multimeter, without the ignition on, or anything?

I would appreciate just about any bit of information anyone is able to give me, that will help in my testing.

Please bear in mind, that I've used different leads, DIS, crank sensor, to no avail.

Again, it's appreciated - don't think I'd be able to do this without you guys...

[Marks DTM Calib]

First thing to do as said in teh oteh thread is to look at the connectors and check the contacts arnt pushed into the housing, this is easy enough to do.

Then pull back the rubber boots on the connectors and check the state of the wires, they are most liekly to fail at this point as often there is a tight bend on them.....

Then buzz it through (note the cable colours and pins mentioned in the other thread).

[JamesV6CDX]

By Buzz it through, I take it you mean test with a multimeter that there is a connection at the DIS end and the ECU end?

This is a daft question, but will this test work with the ignition off? Or do I need it on?

Say if I do find a break etc, would it be acceptable, even if only to prove it for once and for all, to run a "new" wire of equal grade from the ECU connector to the DIS plug?

Ps, Jamie, re. your comment about the ECU flagging it, perhaps it's getting it's knickers in a twist, hence the 19 code!?

[theolodian]

By Buzz it through, I take it you mean test with a multimeter that there is a connection at the DIS end and the ECU end?

This is a daft question, but will this test work with the ignition off? Or do I need it on?

Say if I do find a break etc, would it be acceptable, even if only to prove it for once and for all, to run a "new" wire of equal grade from the ECU connector to the DIS plug?

Ps, Jamie, re. your comment about the ECU flagging it, perhaps it's getting it's knickers in a twist, hence the 19 code!?

I'm pretty sure that he means disconnect both ends and do a continuity test with a multimeter or test light/buzzer.

[Marks DTM Calib]

I am, its an old phrase when you used to have a little box with a battery and buzzer in it.

You need to do this with the ignition off....the only real problem I have is that the ECU should be able to detect a failure on the primary side of the coil....although knowing this particular Siemens ecu it might have been omitted

[JamesV6CDX]

2 questions?

1) If I do find a break in a wire, is it possible, eg using bullet connectors, to "improvise" a new wire to the DIS plug to resolve it?

2) when looking at the main ECU connector, (pins facing you, cable on the right) - which pins are the ones you mention? Is pin 1 top left, and then just count in horizontal rows?

Gonna get cracking with it on Weds.....

Cheers!

[Marks DTM Calib]

1) If I do find a break in a wire, is it possible, eg using bullet connectors, to "improvise" a new wire to the DIS plug to resolve it?

Yes, t test it.....as I seem to recall the actual wire used is screened it would probabaly not suffice as a long term fix unless you used screened cable...

2) when looking at the main ECU connector, (pins facing you, cable on the right) - which pins are the ones you mention? Is pin 1 top left, and then just count in horizontal rows?

I honestly dont know but, look at the connector or the one on the ECU, often the numbers are moulded into the plastic.