Hi all
I carried out the short pin test (pins 4 or 5 and 6), I had to do it with the engine not running as the engine management light would not flash whilst it was running.
I got a code sequence:
12 , 12 , 12 (start up)
19 , 19 , 19 - crank sensor, you would expect this with the engine not running however I belive this to be a problem
then :-?
94 , 94 , 94 - I checked this 5 times, I am unable to identify this code, it is very definately 9 flashes pause then 4 flashes
The wiring on the crank sensor is obviously knackered, the outer sheat has denatured in the heat due to close proximity the engine and this is allowing the cable shielding (twisted strands) to untwist although I think there may be a flat tape underneath. I have ordered a new one as a matter of course.
The car is
1995 Omega 2.0 16v with the x20xev engine fitted with the Simtec 56.0/56.1 ECU (if Im not mistaken), it has just ticked over the 100k miles mark.
The problem:
Non starting - this has been improved by myself pulling appart the connectors and giving them an abrasive and oil based contact clean, I need to get some greace next to help protect the joints. Now it has intermitent starting, the car wont start if it has been recently run.
Engine management light comming on shortly after starting, accompanied by a jerk as the car starts using in built maps and running on limp home mode.
History
The car when I picked it up off my parents only started after about 5 hours of intermitent cranking with jump leads to another car. The engine light stayed on, I had to drive about 30 miles to my destination where it was left over night, the next day the engine light went out and the car started up with only minimal hesitation, I then drove to my own home with no problems.
Four days later the car started with again minimal hesitation and worked fine for that day.
Since then until I cleaned up the connections it was almost impossible to start at all, now it will start and do a run during which the engine light comes on, I then have to leave it for a while before I am able to restart it again.
The engine has always cranked if the battery has enough juice in it.
Current checks
The car has been recently serviced with fresh spark plugs, I checked the state of them and that they and the leads were dry.
It has got a new battery.
I have determined that the car hasn't got the fire trap modification, I belive this was the reason why when the crank sensor was last replaced they determined a fault (TC 73 Intermittent Mass Air Flow Sensor) which I think is actually a fowled up Idle Control Valve, I have carried out a quick clean of, I need to do a better job when I get a new gasket.
I have noticed that it hasnt had the replacement Cam kit with wiring loom modification.
I have tried cleaning up the crank sensor and doing a quick tape up of the crank cable whilst I wait for a new sensor to arrive.
I have tried using different keys one of which indicates immobiliser fault (flashign engine light) but all the rest have the same result as minimal staring delay.
Side Questions
I under stand that if either the Cam sensor OR Crank sensor is faulty the engine will run but only in limp home mode on in built maps, I have heard that if both a faulty it will not start at all but will turn over, can anyone confirm or deny this or point me to a location where I can identify what faults might stop the car running?
Should the engine light flash when you short the pins if the engine is running?
Thanks for any adivce offered.
Regards and Seasons Greetings
Alex