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[Jones]

Hi can anyone tell me what is error code 57 means on am omega 3.0

thanks Paul

[TheBoy]

If nobody has responded by this evening, I'll look it up...

I think its ICV related, but would need to confirm...

[Taxi_Driver]

57.....means idle air control low voltage

apparently the learn functions are locked (oxygen sensor control, idle air control and knock sensor) and last valid values are used

Not sure what that means tho but as TB says sounds like ICV related

[Jones]

Thanks can you tell me if this would stop the car running and what to look for

Regards Paul

[Admin]

Oh yes, this will cause the car to just die at idle.

The ICV is on the right side of the plenum (the silver slab on top of the engine). It is a cylindrical device in a black rubber sleeve that sits in the side of the plenum. Make sure it is firmly pushed in.

Also make sure the electrical connector is plugged in and the contacts are clean.

Actually it would be a good idea to remove it and clean it too. You will see it is a doddle to remove. Once out, simply spray the inside with lots of carb cleaner to remove the carbon deposits (it should be silver in there, not black!) then simply lubricate with 3 in 1 oil.

However, I suspect there is another issue as the ICV will stop the car from idling properly, you should still be able to start it and keep it running on throttle.

[Jones]

Oh yes, this will cause the car to just die at idle.

The ICV is on the right side of the plenum (the silver slab on top of the engine). It is a cylindrical device that sits in the side of the plenum. Make sure it is firmly pushed in.

Also make sure the electrical connector is plugged in and the contacts are clean.

Just removed it going to give it a clean and try again. Thanks for the reply

[Jones]

Oh yes, this will cause the car to just die at idle.

The ICV is on the right side of the plenum (the silver slab on top of the engine). It is a cylindrical device in a black rubber sleeve that sits in the side of the plenum. Make sure it is firmly pushed in.

Also make sure the electrical connector is plugged in and the contacts are clean.

Actually it would be a good idea to remove it and clean it too. You will see it is a doddle to remove. Once out, simply spray the inside with lots of carb cleaner to remove the carbon deposits (it should be silver in there, not black!) then simply lubricate with 3 in 1 oil.

However, I suspect there is another issue as the ICV will stop the car from idling properly, you should still be able to start it and keep it running on throttle.

yep you was right still will only run for about ten min till it stops, nothing else showing up on the paper clip test only that one 57

back to the drawing board i think

thanks all

paul

[Dave-C]

Could still be faulty though!

DC

[tunnie]

Could still be faulty though!

DC

Agreed. All points to a dodgy ICV, got a scrappy near you? Worth trying a replacement.

[Jones]

Could still be faulty though!

DC

Agreed. All points to a dodgy ICV, got a scrappy near you? Worth trying a replacement.

Yes Will pick one up thanks


Regards Paul

[STMO123]

Code 57 'idle speed control valve---interruption?

[Admin]

If it is the ICV the car will run fine under throttle. Remember the ICV is used purely to control the idle speed.

If it still dies and won't start for a period of time then we have to look elsewhere....

[Jones]

If it is the ICV the car will run fine under throttle. Remember the ICV is used purely to control the idle speed.

If it still dies and won't start for a period of time then we have to look elsewhere....

Thanks all.

Just let you all know i had a Diagnostic test on the car today, turns out there is a problem with the crank sensor will replace tomorrow and let you all know

Regards Paul

[Jones]

Just something for you all to think about When the guy hocked up the computer for the diagnostics test, he was cranking the engine on the key and reading the instrument and it came back with no RPM reading
This is why he told me it’s the crank sensor that had gone.

my car will run for 10 min then it Breaks down, I would then have to wait 20 min before it will start again.

So what I did is run the car till it broke down I then removed the crank sensor cleaned it then installed it again all within about five min.
Sure enough the car started right up although it did break down again after about 10 min.
 
I think he is right to say the crank sensor is the problem because everything else I tried the car refused to start unless I wait the 20 min.

my question is if we do the paper clip test when you turn on the Ignition for the first time it does a self test has you are all aware it flashes 1 then a pause then it flashes twice it does this 3 times.

What I would like to know is it at this stage when it is testing all the electrical components in the car or is it just an ecu test.

If it is testing the electrical components do we have to crank the engine on the key for it to test the crank sensor.

The reason I ask is mine never did pick up a problem with the crank sensor when I did the paper clip test.

Sorry for being a pain to you all but these things interest me.

Regards Paul

P.S will be doing some more paper clip tests to see if there is any difference.

 

[TheBoy]

Does sound classic crank sensor problem - fail when engine heated up.

The 31 should disappear once engine has done a few revs at above 23rpm, but never had one to test this theory.

Paperclip purely only does engine ECU on Omega.