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[rpont]

The result of my paperclip test, the codes and their meanings:

73        Air Flow Sensor (AFS)                               Low voltage
144        No immobiliser signal recived                    Faulty unit or break in wiring
16        Knock sensor 1                                 No change in voltage
19        RPM signal (crankshaft sensor)           Incorrect signal
135        'Check engine' lamp (fault code lamp)        Low voltage
57        Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV)           Interruption
129     Not listed
33        Inlet manifold pressure sensor            Voltage too high

I ran it without the multiram on so that would account for 73 and 33. I unplugged the ICV while it was running so that accounts for 57. As for 144 it wouldn't start if there was a problem there and 135 I'll ignore since the lamp does work. No idea about 129.

That leaves me with 16 and 19. Since it runs perfectly above 600 rpm but stops at it's normal idle it could well be faulty. Once it's warmed up there is a slight ticking from the drivers side head so it could well be the knock sensor. The petrol is old and I'd hoped that the idling problem was that but I now think I should replace the drivers side knock sensor and the crankshaft sensor.

Isn't there three types of crank sensor in them or have I got it mixed up with something else? I know about routing the wire differently but wasn't there something about the knock sensor wire and the alternator as well?

I was debating changing the crank sensor while the car was up in the air thinking it must be about due to fail after 10 years and 120,000 miles. I'm a bit peeved now that I didn't but also pleased that it's not been badly put back together. I did strip it down again to double check the timing but that was a close as I could get it without a microscope  

I'm leaving it for at least a couple of weeks because the old metal gutters on the house are being replaced and I can at least move the car around the corner and out of the way for that to be done.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Do check the knock sensor cable on the passenger side bank......seen this trapped before when changing cam cover gaskets.

Crank sensor looks a favourite....has it been conking out?

[TheBoy]

Assuming battery voltage and charge voltage OK, deal with the 19 and 16 codes - the others may just go away then....

[rpont]

Do check the knock sensor cable on the passenger side bank......seen this trapped before when changing cam cover gaskets.

Crank sensor looks a favourite....has it been conking out?

The cable isn't trapped on the passeneger side, knock sensor 1 is the drivers side isn't it?

It's tricky to start and conks out when it's warmed up and the revs are dropping towards 500, if I keep it at 600 or above it runs fine. That's what made me look at the codes.

[Marks DTM Calib]

True...I'm having one of those days.....

[rpont]

Assuming battery voltage and charge voltage OK, deal with the 19 and 16 codes - the others may just go away then....

When I rechecked the timing I ran it without the covers or the aux belt on to check I wasn't getting any noises from there, that's when I got the two intake codes. I unplugged the ICV while it was running to see what would happen without it, then at least I would know I'd got it back on properly if the engine died, as she did, so that's where that code came from. The battery has been on and off a bit and since I'm slow to get round to the front I leave the ignition on when I disconnect the battery so I bet that's when it gets the immobiliser code.

I've every confidence that once the 19 and 16 codes are dealt with that she'll be as good as new  

[TheBoy]

OK, as you know, 19 is knackered crank sensor. Replace.

16 is Knock 1. Assuming its plugged in (normally clips just under EGR), check the wiring. The sensor is actually pretty reliable...

[rpont]

OK, as you know, 19 is knackered crank sensor. Replace.

16 is Knock 1. Assuming its plugged in (normally clips just under EGR), check the wiring. The sensor is actually pretty reliable...

Yes I will replace the crank sensor. There is a bracket fastened to the top left of the cambelt cover and that's the knock sensor I think. Now that you have got me thinking I bet I didn't have it plugged in when I ran it wothout the covers on. I'll just change the cranksensor first and see what happens.

[TheBoy]

OK, as you know, 19 is knackered crank sensor. Replace.

16 is Knock 1. Assuming its plugged in (normally clips just under EGR), check the wiring. The sensor is actually pretty reliable...

Yes I will replace the crank sensor. There is a bracket fastened to the top left of the cambelt cover and that's the knock sensor I think. Now that you have got me thinking I bet I didn't have it plugged in when I ran it wothout the covers on. I'll just change the cranksensor first and see what happens.

[rpont]

I see from the other thread that:
'129 = EGR Feedback Voltage Low...'

perhaps I shouldn't just go around unplugging things to see what happens  

I unplugged the EGR valve to see if it made any difference, it didn't, so that's where that code came from as well. I did that last week though so when that code goes any codes left will be from since I put the engine back together the second time, knowing that is handy.

[rpont]

I've just been out to find out what type of connector I have on the cranksensor, god there's a lot of stuff in the way. I really should have changed it while I was in there. Anyway it's not exactly oval but it's not square either, it has rounded corners and I assume this is the one that's called oval.

I unplugged it and pulled the wire up to do so and now it's back in it's running perfectly even at idle. That helps confirm it's that faulty and that it's a cable fault as usual so I'll order one from AutoVaux this afternoon. What a difference though it idles perfectly at 500 and no coughing and spluttering when stamping the throttle, she just revs up