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New Bolt

Started by ClarCE, 02 March 2007, 11:20:50

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ClarCE

What do you guys think my chances are? I was thinking of putting some loctite on it and just doing it up so that its tight and not coming out if I can..



You can see the difference between the bolts here, I'm just hoping that there is enough length on the new one to grab some threads without ripping them out..  :-/
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theolodian

I have no idea where you plan to use that, but it doesn't look good to me.  If it goes wrong you could have huge problems.
[move]Trains may have been invented here, but public transport is a foreign concept![/move]

Marks DTM Calib

The top bolt looks correct, from memroy its the same as one of the cambelt bolts....hence at the weekend we had loads floating around....

It should be fine though I wouldn't lock tight it....that wont allow you to insert it tighter....if its going to hold it will...

ClarCE

#3
QuoteI have no idea where you plan to use that, but it doesn't look good to me.  If it goes wrong you could have huge problems.

The top bolt is the GM one to attach the auxilary belt tensioner to the cylinder block, the bottom one is what was in there after Cowboys Ltd (extremely) did the cambelt before I had the car.. they lost the original and put this one in, which has removed the threads inside the block.

Thanks Mark, I'll let you know how I get on - wish I'd bought my torx set to work!
So Far - :: Re-Finished Elite Wheels :: Black Leather Interior :: 3.0 Cams :: Chipped (REMOVED, EBAY SHI*E) :: Facelift Skirts ::
To Do   - :: Facelift Rear Bumper, Door Mouldings :: Irsmsher Front Air Da

theolodian

Quote
QuoteI have no idea where you plan to use that, but it doesn't look good to me.  If it goes wrong you could have huge problems.

The top bolt is the GM one to attach the auxilary belt tensioner to the cylinder block, the bottom one is what was in there after Cowboys Ltd (extremely) did the cambelt before I had the car.. they lost the original and put this one in, which has removed the threads inside the block.

Thanks Mark, I'll let you know how I get on - wish I'd bought my torx set to work!
OK, that's not too bad then.  If you can't get the right bolt to work then it isn't the worst place to put in a HeliCoil.
[move]Trains may have been invented here, but public transport is a foreign concept![/move]

ClarCE

I've just had a quick look at it, seems I've got just under an inch of thread to play with  :y

How tight do you guys think I should go considering its got half the amount of threads to lock onto than it should?

Cheers in advance,

Chris.
So Far - :: Re-Finished Elite Wheels :: Black Leather Interior :: 3.0 Cams :: Chipped (REMOVED, EBAY SHI*E) :: Facelift Skirts ::
To Do   - :: Facelift Rear Bumper, Door Mouldings :: Irsmsher Front Air Da

theolodian

Grabbing an inch of threads is more than enough.  IIRC you only need a thread depth equal to the diameter, but that was more than a few moons ago.

Try running the bolt down the threads with the item off to check the threads.
[move]Trains may have been invented here, but public transport is a foreign concept![/move]

ClarCE

QuoteGrabbing an inch of threads is more than enough.  IIRC you only need a thread depth equal to the diameter, but that was more than a few moons ago.

Try running the bolt down the threads with the item off to check the threads.

Cheers Theo  :D
So Far - :: Re-Finished Elite Wheels :: Black Leather Interior :: 3.0 Cams :: Chipped (REMOVED, EBAY SHI*E) :: Facelift Skirts ::
To Do   - :: Facelift Rear Bumper, Door Mouldings :: Irsmsher Front Air Da

ClarCE

Its in, its tight, its holding  :y  :y  :y
So Far - :: Re-Finished Elite Wheels :: Black Leather Interior :: 3.0 Cams :: Chipped (REMOVED, EBAY SHI*E) :: Facelift Skirts ::
To Do   - :: Facelift Rear Bumper, Door Mouldings :: Irsmsher Front Air Da

TheBoy

QuoteIts in, its tight, its holding  :y  :y  :y
:D
Grumpy old man