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Author Topic: Sump Plug  (Read 1787 times)

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JesterRT

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Sump Plug
« on: 29 March 2007, 08:12:26 »

Hi!

I changed the oil on my car last night (2.5TD) and began to torque the sump plug back up.  According to the literature I've got it should be 45Nm in accordance with my engine number (which seems a bit on the excessive side to me...) so I set the wrench and began to tighten, as I have several times before.

I got the point where the wrench wouldn't tighten and I was almost certain that it would strip if I kept going.

Now I'm worried that the next time will be the last.  I'll get it off and putting it back will see it strip out.  What I'm wondering is if anyone else has had a stripped sump thread to deal with, and what the options are.  New sump?  (Plug/bolt itself seems fine).  Scrappies to hunt for a new sump, and would the other vehicles the engine is found in Beamers, Landies etc have the same sump & plug?
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ians

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #1 on: 29 March 2007, 08:26:12 »

Haynes says 45 or 55 for the hex bolt, but only 10 for the torx one.  

(it doesn't mention the diesel though).

I would use your judgement - I don't think it needs to be supertight.
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JesterRT

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #2 on: 29 March 2007, 08:33:45 »

I agree on the 'it doesn't need to be tight'.  I just thought I'd be good for once and follow the service manual I have on the computer  ;)

I'm just frightened the next time I come to change the oil (in 5000 miles time, or less probably) that the plug will come out, and then not go back in without completely stripping the threads.
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ians

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #3 on: 29 March 2007, 08:58:41 »

Was it torx or hex?
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JesterRT

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #4 on: 29 March 2007, 09:16:10 »

Hex.
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Markjay

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #5 on: 29 March 2007, 11:41:31 »

If it's not leaking then you don't need to worry about it until the next oil change...


The sump is metal not alloy, so is not very prone to stripping, and even if it did it may respond well to a re-thread.


Replacing the sump on a V6 is a no no, apparently the engine needs to be removed at at least hoisted out of the way because the cross-member blocks access!

But chances are it won't be needed anyway.


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JesterRT

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #6 on: 29 March 2007, 13:30:23 »

Well, fingers crossed that it holds till the next change.

If the plug is more likely to strip than the sump then perhaps I'll get a spare sump plug for the next change.  

Anyone actually had a sump rethreaded?  Are the plugs special in any way, or are they just more or less regular bolts?  Just thinking the worst in advance.
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osealy

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #7 on: 29 March 2007, 18:09:18 »

sump is alloy. plug is steel. the sump will give out first. happened twice to me.

i would suggest buying pump out from marine suppliers and leave bung alone.
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JesterRT

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #8 on: 29 March 2007, 18:23:19 »

B*stard.  Might have known it'd be that way around!

Presumably you just feed the hose from the pump down the dipstick tube?
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osealy

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #9 on: 29 March 2007, 21:46:54 »

Thats it, oil collected in drum , prob cost about 35-50£ & you can use it for your wake/skiboat too.
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Elite Pete

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #10 on: 29 March 2007, 21:52:23 »

Ive just changed the oil in mine and someone had over tightened the sump plug and most of the threads are missing off the plug and theres loads of PTFE tape around it. I just bought a new plug at £4.00 and it went in fine :y
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ians

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Re: Sump Plug
« Reply #11 on: 29 March 2007, 22:48:03 »

I still can't see what calls for 45Nm or more of torque on the plug.
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