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[Marks DTM Calib]

As per the maintenance guide.....use a vice and slowly press the centre plunger in.....oil should come out of the vent hole in the side.....repeat until its all out......then prime them in a pot of oil......its not until they are empty that you can tell if the internal spring is ok....

[jonny2112]

I only have a small hobby vice but it's not making any headway at all with the plunger. I guess I'll have to get the use of a bigger vice? Or should it not take too much pressure to close them?

[Marks DTM Calib]

It takes a bit of pressure.....you are usinga bolt or similar pressing against the small plunger in the middle....and protecting the top surface from the jaws with a rag or similar...

[jonny2112]

So far I have managed to compress all the lifters to the point where some oil has come out of the drain hole. Admit that I found it very difficult, though as said I only have a small vice. Anyway, having let each one sit in some clean oil for a while I have replaced them in the head, and have noticed -
some of the lifters on the exhaust side will depress slightly in the head, whilst the rest are rigid. All those on the inlet side are also rigid. I tried to compress one of the new lifters, and since doing so I am able to depress the plunger by hand, though this is not true of the existing lifters which would still require the vice. This new one is one of those which is depressing in the head, though I can only assume that it is still ok.
Does this movement in the head of the existing lifters signify anything?

[jonny2112]

Put the inlet cam back in, and regarding the cam sprocket I have put it back but am struggling to get the stage 2 angle (60 deg)- more brute force and ignorance?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Idealy the cam sprocket bolt tightening is a two man job...one holding the spanner on the cam flats and the oterh tightening the bolt...

[jonny2112]

Yeah I guess so, I'll need to find another body for tomorrow.
Do you think there is any relevance to the movement of the few lifters whilst in the head?

[jonny2112]

When replacing the cams, Haynes states that the right hand bank should be at 60 degrees before the timing mark as this allows for even distribution. At what point though do these return to the correct spot? Can you simply adjust them with a spanner on the flats in order to bring them round again?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yeah I guess so, I'll need to find another body for tomorrow.
Do you think there is any relevance to the movement of the few lifters whilst in the head?

Clearly you have managed to get oil out of some of them and not others.....hence some can be squashed and some cant be.....note, it will be noisey for 5-10 mins on first start up....dont worry though, they will quieten down...

[Marks DTM Calib]

When replacing the cams, Haynes states that the right hand bank should be at 60 degrees before the timing mark as this allows for even distribution. At what point though do these return to the correct spot? Can you simply adjust them with a spanner on the flats in order to bring them round again?

Ignore haynes.....its the crank that needs to be 60deg before TDC......you then bring each cam round (I use a torx in the sprocket bolt on a bar, not a ratchet....) so the timing mark aligns with the base seting on the back plate, when you get a pair aligned, pop the locking tool in.

Repeat for all four and then bring the crank round to TDC (clockwise by 60deg)

[jonny2112]

Should have known better than to read Haynes  

I only have one cam back in as yet because I cant decide what to do about the lifters. There are now only two that can be moved in the head, and that is very slightly. Not sure whether this signifies a problem (compared to the others) and whether I should get another two new ones this week somewhere rather than rebuilding now. Tempted just to put it back together so I can have the use of it again, and see how it goes. If I do this and there is still a problem, will it be ok to reuse the timing belt kit that I am fitting now, providing its not left too long?