V6 Clutch

Started by Elite Pete, 30 April 2007, 23:17:22

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Elite Pete

Can anyone tell me if the clutch is the same for a 2.5 and 3.0

Thanks in advance :y
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Markjay

#1
TC - Clutch kits:

Y26SE, X30XE - 93185903
X25XE - 93185904
3.2 - R1520066 (exchange unit)

Strange....



Alas, no more Omegas....

Markjay

#2
EPC - Clutch plates (not kits):

Y26SE, X25XE - 90542982

Y32SE, X30XE - 90543245

So I guess clutch plate only yes, but the whole kit no.....  :o
Alas, no more Omegas....

JasonH

There is a whole world of confusion here.

The EPC says all the clutches are different.

The original parts are LUK.

LUK list common parts for most Omegas. Check the buypartsby website for part numbers.


Elite Pete

The clutch kit im looking at is on Fleabay, its genuine Vauxhall part No 93185904 and is for a 2.5 but was wondering if it would fit the 3.0 :-/
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Marks DTM Calib

No....you need a 3.0 clutch kit....

Note, if you look on buypartsby....the kit listed has a new concentric slave cylinder....these never fail so it should be about 100 quid cheaper than the price shown...

Paul M

3.0 ones are beefier, personally I'd use a 3.0 clutch in a 2.5 if there are no installation issues (maybe the flywheel size is different though). But obviously not the other way around.

When I got mine replaced it was just the standard kit -- pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing. I went for genuine VX as they're reputed to be damn good (my original was on 165k) and they're not too expensive either.

Elite Pete

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Marks DTM Calib

Why do you want to change the clutch....

Elite Pete

QuoteWhy do you want to change the clutch....
The clutch pedal is very high and im just looking for a cheap replacement for when it starts slipping.
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Marks DTM Calib

The clutch pedal position on the Omega does not change with wear as its a fluid based slave setup....

Paul M

QuoteThe clutch pedal position on the Omega does not change with wear as its a fluid based slave setup....

It did on mine. Maybe there was another reason like air in the fluid, but the pedal was very high before the change, afterwards it was much lower -- enough that I almost stalled pulling away the first few times.

Elite Pete

I thought the clutch was about to give up because the pedal is very high.

So do I need to bleed it or can it be adjusted?
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Matchless

#13
No adjustment.
Bleeding only indicated for a long pedal or clutch drag.

High pedal points to friction linings which have become hard and non-compressible, there is a wave spring between the two friction faces and some give in the friction material which helps to give some progression or 'feel' on clutch take-up. If the friction linings have been cooked they become very hard and rigid, clutch action becomes very sharp (on or off, no in-between) and pedal is high because no 'travel' is required to overcome the spring and material compression. If the linings are worn to the rivets then pedal is also high (again, no compression or 'give' in the plate) and action is sharp as above but when you floor it in 3rd or 4th on a hill you get clutch slip.

Added: The clutch cover also wears at the pivot points which changes the leverage quite dramatically, this tends to increase the required pedal pressure which is why a new clutch often seems much lighter.
HTH

Elite Pete

Thanks Pete

The pedal is about an inch higher than the brake pedal and bites at the end of its travel. The action of the clutch pedal is light and the clutch doesn't grab or slip so I will bleed it this week :y
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