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[hol666]

ok, thats fair enough.  I have checked the rest of the wiring and although some a a little 'scorched' they appear to be ok, ie no breaks or bare wires.  I think I'll leave the sai unplugged and blank off the 1way valve and see from there, I will cut back and splice the damaged lead though, purely for my piece of mind however.  thanks mate  

[Kevin Wood]

No problem. Let us know how it goes. BTW you may well get a fault code if you remove the SAI relay since the ECU will detect an open circuit. I would suggest disabling it by removing the fuse that feeds the relay contacts or just by disconnecting the errant wire at the relay contacts.

That wire is probably the feed to the SAI valve rather than the air pump, thinking about it, because the pump is in the front wing so I doubt the wire would be routed over the engine. Either way, if it's fed from that relay, the same advice applies.

Cheers,


Kevin

[hol666]

thanks, what I've done so far is to leave the plug that goes into the SAI unplugged on the unit itself.  The lead does appear to go into the relay, purple one if that helps?, I would be happier if I reconnected the burnt out lead, just in case.  however, I am just a touch nervous about doing so

[Perplexer]

Here's the Simtec 56.5 connector below the steering wheel in my 1998 Opel Omega B.

[hol666]

thanks for that perplexer, got that!    

ok, I've re-connected the wire, left the sai unplugged and when I turned on the ignition, no lights at all, engine started up ok and feels better!  But, I have no lights, tacho, nothing except a flickering battery light?? oh, and a very faint handbrake light??  now I'm just pissed off with it!  I've checked to see if any fuses relate to the dash and nothing appears to?  Any ideas, thanks.  

[hol666]

right, I have now tried the 'paperclip' test again, pins 5 & 6, nothing at all alongside the above.  I'm being to think the ecu is gone?  

[TheBoy]

Might be worth doing a continuity test between diag socket and ecu...

[Kevin Wood]

I think you probably have one or more problems at play here and it's difficult to know what to suggest next. You have a wire that has burnt out in the loom without blowing a protective fuse, which is unusual. It may well have damaged other wires in the loom and perhaps the ECU itself.

I think I might be inclined to take the engine loom off the car, try and get a replacement one (and maybe an ECU too if you can get one for a sensible price, but you'll need to reprogram the transponders in the keys) from a scrap car then go round every ancillary in the engine electrical system and check for shorts before firing it up with a new loom and, perhaps, ECU.

Have a look at all the fuses as well, and make sure they are the correct values. The fuses should be rated to protect the wires in the loom, preventing this kind of problem, so maybe someone has had a troublesome fuse that's been blowing in the past and has replaced it with a higher rating  

It might be worth trying the ECU in another car just to see if it is intact but don't plug a known good ECU into this car until all the wiring has been replaced or thoroughly checked.

Another thing: Have you tried measuring the battery voltage when running at a fast idle? It's possible the regulator in the alternator has failed causing an excessive supply voiltage and this has caused multiple failures in the electrical system. Might be why the alternator light is flickering.

Edited to say: Another thing to try. Check all the earth connections between the battery, the body and the engine block.


Kevin

[TheBoy]

If you change the engine ecu, the car wont start, as it needs to be coded to immobiliser...

[hol666]

yes, I can see where your coming from, but before I started to repair everything a couple of days ago. the tacho and all the check lights ie abs, etc all worked, I don't believe other than not plugging the sai in, I changed anything.  And I did double check and check again, plus after spending £300 on a new lambda and cat, forgive me if I'm reluctant to spend more.

That said, if I pick up another ecu, would one from an auto be ok, mines manual, and how do I get re-program the transponder?

[TheBoy]

Anyone near you have a code reader, even cheapo Tech2 lead?

[hol666]

are you thinking that maybe I should call a mobile mechanic?  I do know of one, think perhaps I ring and see if he has one, thanks.  other than that, the only other way is my local vxl dealer who would need to 'book it in' plus £70!!!

[Admin]

It may be worth dropping James V6CDX  a pm to see if he can come over and have a look, as he is not that far away from you.

[hol666]

thanks everyone for you help, I will contact James and see if he is free.  But sadly, I think its going to cost me more money to sort out than I'm prepared to pay considering what I have already shelled out on the car!  Will let you know what happens next?  Many thanks Mark

[Marks DTM Calib]

Ok, the relay, can you confirm that it is violet in colour and is the one at the top left of the ECU box.....if yes, this is the fuel pump and injector relay....I suspect this is buggered (measure across 85 and 86 with a DVm set to resistance)......and you will need to check the fuse box area to.....for further damage....