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[star_whites]

Hey All

Still having problems with my 1998 2.0 auto est. Mechanics not been to reset timing and have had enough of waiting so Ive looked through the haynes manual which explains a majority of what I need to know (i.e. finding top dead centre and setting up the tensioner) however it just says to line up the two notches on the camshaft sprokets with the two marks on the head. This is where I have a problem as my right hand (looking from front of car) sproket has two marks on it.

Question being which mark should I go by??

Im going to attemt this in the morning even though I have been advised not to by the mechanic that did the head gasket as he swears its not out (even though you can see the lines are out and the cylinders and firing right. I think the one thing that worries me is getting the tensioner right otherwise I may bugger the engine.

Any advise anyone?  :-/

[JamesV6CDX]

Checking and adjusting the cam timing on the 2.0 is not a difficult job, for anyone with a small amount of confidence.

In Summary:

1) Slacken off (but don't remove) all of the crankshaft pulley (E10) Torx bolts.

2) Using a 15mm spanner on the Auxilliary belt tensioner pulley bolt, turn the bolt clockwise, and hold it there. This will relieve the tension on the aux belt. Remove the Aux belt from a couple of pulleys, and then slowly release the Aux belt tensioner bolt to it's original position.

3) Fully remove the 6 E10 bolts holding on the outer crankshaft pulley, and remove it. It may need a bit of persuasion from a mallet (rubber only, don't use a hammer).

4) Remove the top cable tray cover, pop the cables out, and remove the cable tray. It's clipped onto the rear timing cover, and from memory there is also a nut in the middle.

5) Undo the relevent E10 torx bolts, and the 13mm bolt in the centre at the top, and remove the outer timing cover.

6) Rotate the engine on the bottom pulley bolt, only EVER in a clockwise direction. (nb, turning the engine anti-clockwise will cause the belt to slip!!). Rotate the engine, until the cut-out, in the bottom pulley, is lined up exactly with it's cut out on the engine. This will be at the very bottom, facing the floor.

7) Once you have the crank in this position, look at your cam pulleys. As you're FACING the engine, from the front of the car, look at the pulley to your left (drivers side). The INLET mark on the pulley, should be lined up with the cut-out on the rear timing cover. Now look at the other pulley. On this Pulley, the EXHAUST mark, should be lined up with the mark on the rear cam-cover.

Now look at the tensioner. This bit's pretty self explanatory, there are two marks on the tensioner backplate - NEW and USED, depending on what kind of belt you're fitting! If yours is set in this area, then you won't have a problem.

9) For good measure, look at the water pump. Is the raised bit on the water pump, installed in the recess in the cam cover? This can significantly affect tension.

10) If you need to adjust the cam pulleys at all, make sure you do so with a solid bar, and NOT a ratchet - this prevents the pulleys from slipping back under valve spring pressure. I strongly advise use of a Draper camlocking tool for this Engine, only about £6.

11) If all checks out to be well and good, or once you're happy with any adjustments made, re-assemble (reverse of taking apart!)  and presume the problem is not valve timing related....

12) If there are any errors or omissions in this post, don't blame me, it's 02:30am, and I've had WAY too much cider

Hope this sheds some light, post back up if you're still having issues...

[JamesV6CDX]

By the way, what are the symptoms, and are there any fault codes?!

[star_whites]

Thanks James

The faults are an ongoing issue from an earlier post. The headgasket blew so I sent it away to be repaired. This was done and returned to me with engine management issued (There no EMI when it went for repair) . Found these to be Cam Sensor and Throttle Housing sensor. Replaced both with new, errased throttle housing sensor and was still left with a cam sensor fault.

Got mobile tune/electrician out who diagnosed that cam sensor was faulty (which I already knew). Recommended I get an electrician as he thought it was a wiring issue do to only one live going to cam sensor then charged me £40 and buggered off.

My brother popped round to borrow some ramps late at night, had a quick look and straight away said timing was out and its firing on number 2 cylinder first. Arranged for mechanic (different one) to come and reset it, however Im still waiting and have been without car for over a month so am going to have a crack myself!!

Wish me luck lol

[JamesV6CDX]

Thanks James

The faults are an ongoing issue from an earlier post. The headgasket blew so I sent it away to be repaired. This was done and returned to me with engine management issued (There no EMI when it went for repair) . Found these to be Cam Sensor and Throttle Housing sensor. Replaced both with new, errased throttle housing sensor and was still left with a cam sensor fault.

Got mobile tune/electrician out who diagnosed that cam sensor was faulty (which I already knew). Recommended I get an electrician as he thought it was a wiring issue do to only one live going to cam sensor then charged me £40 and buggered off.

My brother popped round to borrow some ramps late at night, had a quick look and straight away said timing was out and its firing on number 2 cylinder first. Arranged for mechanic (different one) to come and reset it, however Im still waiting and have been without car for over a month so am going to have a crack myself!!

Wish me luck lol

It will be a useful excercise to check the cam timing, but I'm still not 100% convinced it's that, at this stage.

If it was firing in the wrong order, you'd have a very bad misfire. Presumable, the plug leads are on the right way?

Look at the DIS pack at the rear of the head, you'll have to get your head and maybe a light in there, but in each corner of the DIS there is a number: 1 to 4. Make sure No1 is going to No1 pot at the cambelt end of the engine, No2 to the one behind that, and so on.

Check ALL connections, including the three 0v connections near the injector rail, and the three big round ones near the battery tray. Make sure they are all home, and there is no wiring damage.

Regardless of codes stored, can you say specifically if there are any symptoms or strange behaviours...

Post up the news, I'm interested in this one

[star_whites]

Ok

Well Ive checked and reset the timing and that was a lot easier than I thought it would be, however no difference. EML is still on and autobox is coming on screen in dash.

Have looked at DIS pack to check connections, however there are no visable numbers listed. I wiped it down to see if they were buried beneath the dirt but they are not.

Any one got any idea which lead goes to which connection.

Looking at them they seam to be in a strange order. Looking from front of engine they are connected like this:

back left : Cylinder 4                      Back Right:  Cylinder 2
Front left: Cylinder 1                      Front Right:  Cylinder 3

Any ideas if this is correct as yet again the haynes manual does not show you!!

[star_whites]

Help!!!!! Does anyone know the settings for the DIS Module

Have yet again looked for numbers and cant find any, does anyone know or has a 2.0 they can check on. Would be greatly appreciated  :-/

[JamesV6CDX]

Help!!!!! Does anyone know the settings for the DIS Module

Have yet again looked for numbers and cant find any, does anyone know or has a 2.0 they can check on. Would be greatly appreciated  :-/

Pretty sure the numbers on the DIS are by the bolt holes, hard to see, but they WILL be there

From memory mate, I'm 99.99999% sure that the way you have mentioned above is correct though

Was the cam timing out then? Where, and by how much?

The Auto gearbox problem - is that new, or has it been doing that all along?

Check the throttle body (butterfly area) near the throttle cable, there should be a 3 pin plug, going into the bottom of this area. This is the throttle position sensor - this being unplugged will cause the "automatic gearbox" message to appear and limp mode to occur...

[star_whites]

Will go and look again and see if I can get my head right over the DIS module.

The autobox warnign has been coming up ever since it came back from having the head done.

The timing appeared to be correct, each notch lined up and the no 1 piston is set correct and not on exhaust. Will check the connection mentioned on throttl body however have already replaced the module.

Will report back shortly!!

[JamesV6CDX]

Will go and look again and see if I can get my head right over the DIS module.

The autobox warnign has been coming up ever since it came back from having the head done.

The timing appeared to be correct, each notch lined up and the no 1 piston is set correct and not on exhaust. Will check the connection mentioned on throttl body however have already replaced the module.

Will report back shortly!!

If you're getting the Automatic gearbox message, it's really important to check the blue round plug by the battery tray, and the TPS.

It might be worth finding someone with TIS, and trace the wires from the Throttle Position Connector to the relevent pins on the ECU connector for consistency and shorts.

I'm willing to bet this is something really silly.

Only wish you were closer, I'd take a look

[star_whites]

Just had another look and cant see numbers so reconnected them the way I took them off and started her up but no change.

When you rev she still sounds retarded. Was going thinking off taking blue plug out and checking connetions however was not sure how it parted and didnt want to damage it.

Without sounding too thick whats TIS & TPS

[JamesV6CDX]

Just had another look and cant see numbers so reconnected them the way I took them off and started her up but no change.

When you rev she still sounds retarded. Was going thinking off taking blue plug out and checking connetions however was not sure how it parted and didnt want to damage it.

Without sounding too thick whats TIS & TPS

TIS - information system, software package with lots of information.

TPS is just the throttle position sensor.

Have a look under the car, and make sure he plugged the O2 sensor on the downpipe back in when he dropped the exhaust.

The round connector, twist ring anticlockwise to remove, and clockwise to refit... I would reseat this if I were you.

We may need Mark's advice on this one

[star_whites]

I have also noticed that there are two connectors under the cowling near the drivers side wiper that are not connected. Neither are the same type but I cannot see what they are supposed to be for. I have never seen them before?

[JamesV6CDX]

I have also noticed that there are two connectors under the cowling near the drivers side wiper that are not connected. Neither are the same type but I cannot see what they are supposed to be for. I have never seen them before?

Are they tied up?

They may be for cruise control (even if you don't have it - located near the drivers side strut)
Or, they could be level sensors, if you only have a base model etc...

[star_whites]

Nope they are not tied up, and yes you maybe right as I only have the CD model.

Removed multiplugs and that has erradicated the autobox fault (THANKU). One down lord knows how many more to go.

On starting up it now takes about 5 seconds for the EML to come on. Not checked O2 sensor yet. GOt to get jack out for that.

Did paperclip test again and its coming up with 0120 and 0340 so crank and cam sensor. Have already replaced the cam sensor and I know when autotune guy was here it did not show cranksensor as a fault cause he had engine running whilst doing test. Have found paperclip will only work when ignition is off!