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[chris b]

hi chaps manifold still chuffin when cold or cud it be the air pipe that runs on the manifold? eny way what needs 2 cum off 2 get two the god dam thing .has eny one dun this job or had the same symtoms? help me chap  

[holey head]

what car have you got for starters bud?? 2.0l ??

[hotel21]

Howdoo, matey.  Not too sure of the engine type you have.  If you have 5 mins, update your signature on the left with #car/engine/location details.  Saves either typing the obvious every time or someone else having to ask.  

What you got, by the way....  

[chris b]

hi chaps av got a 3.0 mv6 man. and the chuffin blowin is cumin from the back of the drivers side bank manifold.

[holey head]

hi, i'm not too good with v6 but there plenty of guys here who are............... it'll probs be a bit harder than mine.... lol

[chris b]

like who m8 need help?

[JasonH]

The good news is that you just need to change the gasket. Buy the geninue Vx metal laminated one or it will fail again. Gasket plus new studs, nuts etc. come to around £20 or less.

It's a fiddly job and the exhaust manifold to downpipe studs can be tough to get off.

Your big challenge is the nasty great coolant pipe that is in the way. This has to come off and it bolts into the back of the block.

Headlines (cribbed from a post sometime ago):

Post 98 models should have the non-seize manifold nuts fitted

Drop the front pipe off of the manifold (two bolts accessed from under the car)

Remove the plenum and intake assembly.

Remove the scuttle cover.

Drain the coolant.

Disconnect the main stainless steel coolant pipe that runs around the drivers side head at the rear of the block (two bolts, you need to lean over the engine to reach) and remove it.

Removing the coolant pipe from the block isn't that easy - you need a long E10 socket to get past the oil pipes (and a lot of patience).

Remove the manifold heat shields. There is an extra e10 bolt on the inside of the manifold at the rear – you may find that these will shear off!!!

You also need to remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold.  The lower heat shield usually comes off with ease (only 2 or 3 E10's)

Unbolt the manifold.

Manifold nuts are locking nuts - when new they are oval at the ends - if you get new ones make sure they give you 13mm nuts - 2.6 & 3.2 went to 10mm nuts not as good.

A list of parts are below, you may not need all of them:

                                                Part no.         Price
Exhaust downpipe nuts M10 x 4      90570845      approx £1.50 each (have helicoil insert)
Manifold gasket            24416110            £5.91
Manifold nuts x 7            11082413            £0.26 each
Manifold studs x 7            90106924            £0.45 each
Coolant pipe O-ring            9128362            £1.46
Front pipe gasket            90499289            £4.55 each (rip off)
SAI gaskets x 2            90467427            £0.40 each

Good luck

[chris b]

cheers m8 your a star. is it most of the tme the gasket then not a crack`d manifold?

[holey head]

hi there bud, as far as i'm aware cracked manifold is only common on 2.0l i.e as mine was. but not common on v6's. again somebody else who knows v6's better than me will confirm

[monza789]

hi mate......my v6 blowed at the back of the same bank......yes its more than likely the gasket.....just done mine and now runs quiet again... a real fiddly awkward job to do tho mate....!
Are you anywhere near Derby??

Where dya live matey?

monza

[chris b]

burton on trent m8 small would. you fancy doin a nother lol?

[TheBoy]

hi there bud, as far as i'm aware cracked manifold is only common on 2.0l i.e as mine was. but not common on v6's. again somebody else who knows v6's better than me will confirm

On v6, more likely to be gasket than manifold itself.

[JamesV6CDX]

Jason is right in what he's said above...

The only think I would add, is when removing the rear coolant transfer pipe, an E10 torx spanner (or sometimes stubby 8mm ring spanner) works wonders on one of the awkward bolts, the other one you can get a normal E10 socket on.

[Marks DTM Calib]

To make the coolant pipe removal much easier, disconnect and remove the cooling pipes and bypass valve assembly.

You can then get a ratchet, short extension and torx socker in with ease, makes it MUCH easier. For the bolt on the passenger side of the coolant pipe, dont be afraid to nudge the oil cooler pipe slightly to get it out of the way.

Its also worth checking the manifold face for flatness once removed, it can be flatened using a belt sander or large piece of coarse emery and flat surface if required

[JasonH]

I got to the torx bolts with a socket, I think the oil cooler pipes just gave me enough clearance.